|Feb 10, 2012, 09:18 AM|
Flyzone UM Dr1 Mods Thread
Hobbico has a real winner here. And while I understand from a marketing standpoint that it just had to be red out of the box. Most will agree that there are just too many Red Fokker Tripes. So, I decided to do mine as Lothor von Richtofen's Dr1. I had done my AZM 1/5 Dr1 in these markings a number of years back and really like them.
I first stripped off the red paint on the wings with blue painters tape.The fuse was more difficult and took light applications of CA Debonder on a cloth. Still, it didn't come all the way off the fuse.
As you can see I've already painted and masked the cowl, and lightly painted some green streaks on the top wing, rear fuse, and top of horiz. stab. and elevator. This would show a bit throw the yellow later by design. Yes, I'm that anal. The fields behind the top wing and fuse crosses are darker and solid, that's why they're masked and painted on the wing.
The engine details added were the intake manifolds, which were from an old 1/32 scale plastic kit radial engine exhaust manifold (never throw anything away!). The push rods are stretched sprue. I guess I should try a painted prop next.
The final product. A light tan base was applied with an airbrush, then the green streaks were added. Cockpit was cut out, and graphics provided by Dave Johnson were printed, cut out and added to the interior. I haven't quite figured out how to mount the seat that's included with Dave's cockpit details as it would need to sit on top of the control wires to the tail feathers. While not visible in this photo, I've also added the pilot steps and lift handles on the rear of the fuse. I have made the wing tip skids out of 1/64 lite ply, but haven't added them yet. More little details to add too.
I hope that I haven't added too much weight, and it still flies as great as it did before. I have also reshaped the rudder a bit to make it more rounded. It's still too big, but it's probably that way for a reason. On the subject of the rudder, the lower part of the rudder where it get's small to hinge to the fuse I'm finding is my nemesis, I keep buggering it up, mostly do my own clumsiness, but it's the weakest part of, the design. I'm on my second rudder, and darned if I didn't screw it up working on it yesterday. It's repaired for now.
First re-flight should be this tonight.
I've shown you mine, now you show me yours.
|Feb 12, 2012, 08:48 AM|
Joined Apr 2001
Good job LD, looks great.
Here's some mods I did to mine back in December but have now only just started the repaint too much fun flying. I also have the PZ P-51 motor and gearbox in mine. I plan on doing Kempf's scheme.
Got some paint down.
|Feb 14, 2012, 08:30 AM|
Information from E-Fest:
Disassembling Fokker DR1 and Albatros DV, Ronson Lighter Fluid
Removing paint from those planes (and most others): Blue 3M tape may be used on the Depron surfaces to remove about 95% of the paint, Do not use the Green or white tapes as it can pull off the skin. Satellite City/Hot Stuff Super Solvent will remove the paint from these plane with out causing any damage to the foam. This also works on most other EPS, Depron airplanes.
3M 75 removable spray on adhesive is my favorite for making masks for painted markings. A light coat and it will stick and not pull off the paint.
Surface preparation: On EPS once the paint is removed. I like to carefully sand the foam with 400 grit sandpaper. Be careful not to leave gouges or ridges. Once that has been done, Apply a coat of Minwax Polycrylic with a foam brush. Let this dry for at least 3~4 hours and lightly sand it with 400 again. Apply one more coat and sand with 600 grit. You now have a nice stable base for your paint that will allow masking with a minimum risk of pealing the previous layer.
Paint: My personal preference (right now:-)) is Flouquill Polyscale. It has very finely ground pigments which allows exceptional coverage with a minimum of weight gain.
That is today's burst of stream of conscious modeling, more to come with pictures as I find time.
|Feb 14, 2012, 09:37 AM|
Gulf Breeze, FL
Joined Jul 2006
|Feb 14, 2012, 11:08 PM|
Lucky Dog, Thanks for starting this thread. Hoping to get back to mine soon. BTW I was planning to do a Lothar version for my first one also...it has always been one of my favorites.
DJ thank you too for posting the info on removing the paint from the airframe. I am kind of interested to see how many times someone asks how to remove the paint or complains that their gearbox is noisy...may just keep count throughout the evolution of this thread.
So far, I have only tinkered with making my own photo-etch cooling jackets for the Spandaus...a complete failure so far. Also, I have experimented with casting my own pilot...which also has been a complete failure. These are things that I can add later anyway, so I will return my focus to painting the airframe.
I did manage to make some decent looking wheels...I'll post some picks in the near future.
|Feb 15, 2012, 05:53 PM|
Dohhh, another Lothar Triplane:-( Hey at least it is an earlier version prior to the top wing being painted yellow. 4 channels, all pull-pull. Has a Cox motor fora little more Omph with the added weight. Not completed but getting close. It has been test flown. Note the scale rudder and wings with no dihedral.
|Feb 15, 2012, 06:20 PM|
It looks great.
A couple of questions
How did you take the dihedral out of the wings? Is it an entirely new wing?
How does the pull-pull work in the business end inside? I'm having a hard time visualizing where the wires go (what are they made of by the way?)
Any pictures of the inside works?
Hi Pete, we meet again!
It's far down the list but I had planned to make Kempf's dr1 when I get around to it. I see you beat me to it. Hope you don't mind if there is a copy flying on teh west coast. It won't look as great as yours of course! You have my Email if you are willing to share your graphics files.
Thanks! (and nice pilot!)
(oops, thanks Jim - corrected)
|Feb 16, 2012, 10:07 PM|
I crunched my rudder again being careless. Truthfully, It's (frail I think) at the hinge. So, I'm trying to build a very light weight built up one using cane reed.
Soaked the reed for an hour or so then shaped it around a cardboard form, and let it dry overnight
Then added the ruder hinge area made from 1/64 balsa laminated cross grain with piece of old floppy inserted for the hinge.
I just wish I had a clue as to it's weight compared to the stock foam rudder. I have some small dia. CF rod that I could have used for the cross braces. I wonder if it would be significantly lighter?
Here's a test fit before covering. Shape still isn't right, but it'll do for now.
Dave, I noticed you've modified your rudder hinge. Can you elaborate on how you did yours? I looks great! The whole Tripe looks wonderful!
|Feb 17, 2012, 01:32 AM|
Here's my 2C
I didn't take mine apart - never thought of it
Instead I stripped most the red off with a paint brush and methyl hydrate (alcohol - wearing GLOVES). Then I started the paint job in black sharpie but switched to a super thin coat of Creative airbrush paint brushed on. Total weight gain .5 grams
Not super scale but that wasn't my goal - just wanted a different look
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