Landing after flying that round must have felt like bungee jumping or something, insane rush man.
I hope ill have the balls to try something like that myself someday.

[QUOTE=trinco;23914215]KK2 on steroids

We need some kind of Technical Olympics, with a high-speed FPV slalom as one of the competitions... wow!

Originally Posted by trinco

KK2 on steroids

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2pJ7Gox3pI4

Hi Trinco,

nice vid. Can you please post your setup? Which motors, props etc..

thanx
Dirk

Originally Posted by trinco

KK2 on steroids

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2pJ7Gox3pI4

Wicked flying as usual. Those aileron turns are scary!

Hi Guys Long Time on the kk2 Thread.... I just Migrated from a Tricopter to a Quad X ...I was very hopeful That I would get a better and more stable platform as compared to a tricopter as on a quad the motors are directly inline with the axes along which the platform is supposed to move...so I built a quad using the same arms I use for my tricopter..... I ended up with a quad with 50 cm arms so motor to motor distance is 1 meter diagonally.. the result was a pretty big quad...
having DT750 motors with pine wood arms...Hobby King F-30 amps flashed with simonk......5000mAH 20C 4s Turnigy pack...turnigy 9x...with a KK2 control board at the center with a quad X motor layout loaded and all the motors spinning in the right directions (M1 ->.....M2 <-.......M3->....and...... M4<-) all plugged in correctly...... the props are 10x4.7 from Hobby king (all balanced).............the PI settings are adequately tuned according to the videos shown in the starting of this thread...also I have successfully built and flown a tri-copter using the KK2..and It was very stable so I know how to tune the pi settings ...But I was still yearning for more stability so I jumped onto the quad bandwagon...... but even after everything was set up correctly ...when I flew my quad for the first time my quad was inadvertently yawing to the left...so I opened up receiver test and everything was set to zero...then I went to PI editor and increased the yaw P gain and doing that did not solve my problem...on the contrary It caused the motors to change speeds rapidly to maintain yaw orientation but still the craft yawed to the left ...I can upload a video in this regard but still I hope someone here can diagnose my problem....all my motors are working great with nice bearings and everything is fine with the moving parts and the power distribution...no solder problems ...the thrust provided by all motors is same...Is it a problem with the KK2 code v1.5.....I flew with this code by holding the yaw stick to the right and it flew well and stabilized well along the roll and pitch axes but it was very cumbersome to fly...I went to sensor test and it was fine....the temperature where I live hardly varies from 20*C to 35*C...so I don't see the temperature creating problems for the gyro....I tried to see if small offsets in the custom frame made by me caused a problem..So I checked the angles between the arms... all were 90 degs...also the points at which the motors are placed were perfectly at the corners of the square formed by the motor arms....so no problems with the frame either............ ..
The AUW is 1.7 KGs...
Edit: I tried to fly and then trim the yaw axes ...but changing the throttle again created the same problem ...decreasing the throttle below the trimmed throttle level yawed my craft to the right due to the trim ...and increasing the throttle beyond the trimmed value caused it to yaw left ....so please help me guys....

Originally Posted by Banjo5

The SW from steveis mentioned above does this (according to what I've read). Check it out.

cheers,
Andrew

Thanks Andrew, but good as it might be, that firmware can't be used on a hex. Certainly worth a try if you're flying a quad though.

Originally Posted by flarssen

Sorry, should have added some more text. If you focus on the 4mm bullets, you'll see that one picture shows the male in the wide sleeve, while the other has in the narrow sleeve. You stated that smaller plastic connector sleeve should have the male metal connector inside. I have had mine like the first picture since late 80's without any issues, until Hobbyking started selling pre-made stuff

I see no such thing (male in wide sleeve) in these pictures. Perhaps you confuse wire color with pin sex. Furthermore what you describe is incompatible. Neither would plug into the other. A battery wired your first way would physically not plug into an ESC wired your second way requiring a third way to plug into the first way. Likewise with your second way requiring a fourth way. What you would have is two incompatible ways of connecting your battery to your ESC. Choose one of these (1 and 3, or 2 and 4) and you have the industry standard way of using these plugs.

From what you describe, you did not intend to mean to put two males in the same hood, which might offer a solution. Semi-moot points because these are not industry standard ways.

The industry standard with these allows them to be plugged in backwards. This is a real safety issue, right up there with "take your props off the first few times you perform a particular procedure". With a lipo that could cause a fire and it will destroy electronics with certainty.

A battery can be plugged backwards into a battery, destroying them both. A watt meter can be plugged in backwards (battery into load end), destroying it. A Y cable can be used incorrectly, destroying batteries, ESC's, watt meters, etc. depending on how you misuse it.

With pre-made stuff, you are fairly safe as long as you look before you plug it in and always plug red wire to red wire, but try buying a batch of pigtails with this kind of connector and making a simple extension cable for someone else to use. You may know that the wire colors are incorrect, but let a newbie friend use it without an explanation and see what happens.

When you make for instance Y cables with these, you have to be very careful to get the wire colors and pin polarities and hood polarities all correct for them to be safe (by only following the red wire to red wire rule) and usable (all sexes correct so that things actually plug in where the are supposed to). Although you can use it with the colors backwards, you should actually have a different Y (wire colors reversed) for going trom two batteries to one ESC than for going from one battery to two ESC's.

Originally Posted by thecostakid

Hi there KK! can you, or some other contributor, please explain why I have so much trouble trying to ARM my KK2.0?...

See Post #9563

Originally Posted by trinco

KK2 on steroids

Does it turn left? Ha! Ha!

Nice flying!!!

Originally Posted by serjuro

Hi folks, just to be 100% sure, I understood that if I need camera stab, I have to use a separate KK2 board for it and a different KK2 board to control the quad, is this right ?

KK2 firmware v1.5+ has camera gimbal leveling in it that is good enough for all but the expensive professional.

Professionals know that servos are not linear. If 1 degree of stick motion prodeces 1 degree of servo motion at center stick, it will not produce exactly 1 degree at the end. This is compounded because servo arms have a circular travel that produces more throw in the middle and the gimbal arm usually has a different radius or neutral. Having one board to level both the aircraft and the camera gimbal will thus produce tiny camera motions when the aircraft is moved a lot. It also requires a careful calibration procedure to get the gimbal gain correct (exactly 1 degree of gimbal per degree aircraft motion). This is true of any single flight controller board.

You can get more perfect leveling by using a second board that is mounted to the camera. The "I" gain will get it to level perfectly, but there are setup issues to be researched before spending money. It's really only worth it for professionals or for someone who wants an extra toy.

Originally Posted by thecostakid

Hi there KK! can you, or some other contributor, please explain why I have so much trouble trying to ARM my KK2.0? Sometimes it will do it at the first attempt, but that is very unusual at the moment. It can take 20-30 attempts before it will ARM, but I have to disconnect & then reconnect the power every time. Many thanks in advance for all and any help.Ray

For a test, try moving both trims in the direction of arming before you arm.

You are correct, I should post a picture of them after I changed the plugs in those pictures. Those were the before so you are correct. And you are also correct, these things can be plugged incorrectly if one is not careful. Sorry not trying to confuse anyone. Also do you hav a link to the pigtails you mentioned? Thanks. I normallu just get the set of plugs and solder them myself. Sorry about the typos, can't type well with thwo cut fingers.

Originally Posted by theothercliff

I see no such thing (male in wide sleeve) in these pictures. Perhaps you confuse wire color with pin sex. Furthermore what you describe is incompatible. Neither would plug into the other. A battery wired your first way would physically not plug into an ESC wired your second way requiring a third way to plug into the first way. Likewise with your second way requiring a fourth way. What you would have is two incompatible ways of connecting your battery to your ESC. Choose one of these (1 and 3, or 2 and 4) and you have the industry standard way of using these plugs.

From what you describe, you did not intend to mean to put two males in the same hood, which might offer a solution. Semi-moot points because these are not industry standard ways.

The industry standard with these allows them to be plugged in backwards. This is a real safety issue, right up there with "take your props off the first few times you perform a particular procedure". With a lipo that could cause a fire and it will destroy electronics with certainty.

A battery can be plugged backwards into a battery, destroying them both. A watt meter can be plugged in backwards (battery into load end), destroying it. A Y cable can be used incorrectly, destroying batteries, ESC's, watt meters, etc. depending on how you misuse it.

With pre-made stuff, you are fairly safe as long as you look before you plug it in and always plug red wire to red wire, but try buying a batch of pigtails with this kind of connector and making a simple extension cable for someone else to use. You may know that the wire colors are incorrect, but let a newbie friend use it without an explanation and see what happens.

When you make for instance Y cables with these, you have to be very careful to get the wire colors and pin polarities and hood polarities all correct for them to be safe (by only following the red wire to red wire rule) and usable (all sexes correct so that things actually plug in where the are supposed to). Although you can use it with the colors backwards, you should actually have a different Y (wire colors reversed) for going trom two batteries to one ESC than for going from one battery to two ESC's.

Originally Posted by theothercliff

I see no such thing (male in wide sleeve) in these pictures. Perhaps you confuse wire color with pin sex. Furthermore what you describe is incompatible. Neither would plug into the other. A battery wired your first way would physically not plug into an ESC wired your second way requiring a third way to plug into the first way. Likewise with your second way requiring a fourth way. What you would have is two incompatible ways of connecting your battery to your ESC. Choose one of these (1 and 3, or 2 and 4) and you have the industry standard way of using these plugs.

From what you describe, you did not intend to mean to put two males in the same hood, which might offer a solution. Semi-moot points because these are not industry standard ways.

The industry standard with these allows them to be plugged in backwards. This is a real safety issue, right up there with "take your props off the first few times you perform a particular procedure". With a lipo that could cause a fire and it will destroy electronics with certainty.

A battery can be plugged backwards into a battery, destroying them both. A watt meter can be plugged in backwards (battery into load end), destroying it. A Y cable can be used incorrectly, destroying batteries, ESC's, watt meters, etc. depending on how you misuse it.

With pre-made stuff, you are fairly safe as long as you look before you plug it in and always plug red wire to red wire, but try buying a batch of pigtails with this kind of connector and making a simple extension cable for someone else to use. You may know that the wire colors are incorrect, but let a newbie friend use it without an explanation and see what happens.

When you make for instance Y cables with these, you have to be very careful to get the wire colors and pin polarities and hood polarities all correct for them to be safe (by only following the red wire to red wire rule) and usable (all sexes correct so that things actually plug in where the are supposed to). Although you can use it with the colors backwards, you should actually have a different Y (wire colors reversed) for going trom two batteries to one ESC than for going from one battery to two ESC's.

Been using those connectors for about 2 years. This was one of my first youtube videos posted to my channel:

HobbyKing Connectors (7 min 54 sec)

I have a

• kk 2.0 1.5 firmware
• HOBBYWING SKYWALKER QUATTRO 20AX4 speed controllers
• J drones gimbal with emax es08md servos (which i tested and work)

and I can't get power to servos on motor 7 and 8. from reading a big it looks like I need to get some power on m2-m4 but all my power comes in on m1 because thats where kk2.0 gets its power from (so i had to switch my motor 1 and 3 from my esc to compensate as described by this guy with a similar setup to me http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...1711602&page=2 )


but ya. HOW DO I GET POWER TO M7 and M8 with my setup?

Good video jose, never thought about that red lead since I havent done too many. Here's the short video i did on them when I started too..i thingk the link to the pictures shows the process better. I just made some corrections on there that these can be plugged in backwards if you use an adapter for example.

Solderingbanaplugs (1 min 6 sec)