I'll add my 2 cents to this discussion also. Before I maidened my white Super Cub a short time ago, I decided (naively) to input some throw and expo. I think I set in 75/25 in my DX6i. Luckly the wind was almost calm on my maiden flight so it went ok. But a few days later when I flew it I felt disconnected from it - it didn't seem to respond very well to my commands. When I would move the stick a bit, I got no response - until I move the stick further. I didn't like that "dead zone" in the center stick position.

So I took all the rate/expo out, flew it again, and now it flew like a champ! (pardon the pun) It was WAY easier to control and I now felt connected to my Super Cub.

OK, so all is well, right? But not so fast. My son is visiting me from Utah and we decided we had to fly something while he was here, even though it was really way to windy. I set it down into the wind, gave it full throttle and the ROG (Rise Off Ground) went perfectly and it immediately went up high against the wind. I managed to circle it a few times, but with each circle it got a little more downwind. All of a sudden the wind REALLY picked up while it was going downwind. It was heading out of the park at this time. My plan was to turn it around as quickly as I could, then give it full throttle and some down elevator to keep it from climbing and make it cut through the wind and come back to me.

But, you guessed it, somehow, the 75/25 throw/expo got set again and I just flat out could not TURN it. I got it turned 90 degrees but I could not make it turn 180 so it would be facing me. With it at 90 degrees the wind just took it and pushed it into the very top of a fairly large tree! Needless to say I was quite upset. I found out after I got home that the throw and expo was still set in my DX6i. I think if I would have had 100%/0 set I could have turned it around and brought it back.

The moral of the story is, as mentioned above, that dumbing down the transmitter is NOT always a good thing to do, it may actually work against you.

Oh, luckily my son was with me, he managed to climb up the tree and bring my Cub down with no problem. No damage at all except for a small ding on the wing. Needless to say I now check control surface movement in both the "0" and "1" positions before flying.

Originally Posted by Scootatrash

Hey Sean, Sorry, I was excited about my MQX rescue and didn't read your post first.

That sucks that you are having problems with your's already. But I think that is really not typical of these. Maybe HH will help you out with a replacement or some new parts?

It does suck and I totally agree with you, I know its not typical of these to have probems like that. My father and friend have them and iv flown the crap out of them and seen the beating they can take. I narrowed it down to the front right boom with wirring in it seems to be the problem. Ill be hitting up the hobby shop agian today. Hopefully replacing that piece will get me going agian.

I will soon be buying myself a mqx bnf I have a MLP4DSM transmitter that came with my Blade mcx2. in my budget i can afford to buy a Spektrum DX5e will this work better than the MLP4DSM transmitter if so why is it better ?

Originally Posted by Lamatron

I will soon be buying myself a mqx bnf I have a MLP4DSM transmitter that came with my Blade mcx2. in my budget i can afford to buy a Spektrum DX5e will this work better than the MLP4DSM transmitter if so why is it better ?

The DX5e has less delay, higher resolution, and it is also a full-range tx.

Pretty much everyone who has flown any of the Horizon UM aircraft with the toy-grade tx & then switched to a hobby-grade tx exclaims about how much smoother their flying is, how much more control they have, and how their flying experience is so much more enjoyable. The difference is very noticeable, even when flying docile aircraft such as the mCX/2 & UM Champ. With faster, more responsive aircraft, a hobby-grade tx makes a night & day difference. It's very similar to driving a car with loose steering & a soft suspension. It's pretty tough to drive well with a quarter-turn of play in the wheel & soft-as-a-marshmallow suspension. The more agile the car, the more apparent the problem becomes, and the faster you go, the harder it is to maintain control. A similar thing happens with transmitters that have low resolution & high latency. Surely not what one would call confidence-inspiring. And confidence is precisely what a new driver (or pilot) needs in order to make progress.

That said - if you plan to stay in the hobby & expand your fleet, you would be much better-off with a DX6i. If you can get by with the toy-grade tx for now & save-up for a DX6i, you will thank yourself later on.

Joel

Originally Posted by fotoflyer

1. Extra battery - best one to buy? Where to buy it? Or just buy extra stock battery for $9.99?

I have a 550 mAh Hyperion - it is great.

2. Best place and method for attaching an 808 #16 keychain camera to the mQX.

I glued a gyro pad (high-density foam) to the underside of the battery bay. Then use a rubber ring over the chassis to hold the keychain cam to it. That way it lowers the CoG making the quad more stable and keeps the front rotors out of the frame. It does touch down on the ground when landing but that's not a real problem.

Don't use velcro as it will create jello effect. The gyro foam pads work much better.

Originally Posted by turboparker

The DX5e has less delay, higher resolution, and it is also a full-range tx.

Pretty much everyone who has flown any of the Horizon UM aircraft with the toy-grade tx & then switched to a hobby-grade tx exclaims about how much smoother their flying is, how much more control they have, and how their flying experience is so much more enjoyable. The difference is very noticeable, even when flying docile aircraft such as the mCX/2 & UM Champ. With faster, more responsive aircraft, a hobby-grade tx makes a night & day difference. It's very similar to driving a car with loose steering & a soft suspension. It's pretty tough to drive well with a quarter-turn of play in the wheel & soft-as-a-marshmallow suspension. The more agile the car, the more apparent the problem becomes, and the faster you go, the harder it is to maintain control. A similar thing happens with transmitters that have low resolution & high latency. Surely not what one would call confidence-inspiring. And confidence is precisely what a new driver (or pilot) needs in order to make progress.

That said - if you plan to stay in the hobby & expand your fleet, you would be much better-off with a DX6i. If you can get by with the toy-grade tx for now & save-up for a DX6i, you will thank yourself later on.

Joel

Thankyou very much for the advice

Ok, guys. Thanks for the advice. I'll try to lower the expo and feel it out.

I do appreciate the feedback. I'm not a hundred years old, but I'm no spring chicken

Been flying on high rates all the time now. Flew it outside this afternoon and I was amazed how well it did in 3-5 mph winds. The gyro system seems to really help outdoors, very controllable.

Off to change expo and see what it's like.

Thanks again,

Mike

Originally Posted by fotoflyer

I'll add my 2 cents to this discussion also. Before I maidened my white Super Cub a short time ago, I decided (naively) to input some throw and expo. I think I set in 75/25 in my DX6i. Luckly the wind was almost calm on my maiden flight so it went ok. But a few days later when I flew it I felt disconnected from it - it didn't seem to respond very well to my commands. When I would move the stick a bit, I got no response - until I move the stick further. I didn't like that "dead zone" in the center stick position.

So I took all the rate/expo out, flew it again, and now it flew like a champ! (pardon the pun) It was WAY easier to control and I now felt connected to my Super Cub.

Yeah because the Super Cub is a dumbed-down mushy airplane, that's why it's such a great trainer. I think the mQX is kind of like that too. For inside I like a little expo, but for outside I like it crisp and full active.

Originally Posted by 4x4rc

I have a 550 mAh Hyperion - it is great.


I glued a gyro pad (high-density foam) to the underside of the battery bay. Then use a rubber ring over the chassis to hold the keychain cam to it. That way it lowers the CoG making the quad more stable and keeps the front rotors out of the frame. It does touch down on the ground when landing but that's not a real problem.

Don't use velcro as it will create jello effect. The gyro foam pads work much better.

Thanks on the battery!

I don't really know what a "gyro pad" is. Is it squeasable or is it firm? How thick is it? Could you post any pictures of the setup?

Finally have you posted any videos taken from the on-board camera? Thanks!

Originally Posted by pgoelz

That (and where it looks like you put the LEDs) got me thinking "I'll bet I know what those extra pads are for on the board" and sure enough.... they seem to be for an official light kit. In each of the four positions, one pad has a missing (0402 ?) component that appears to be for a series dropping resistor between it and Vbat and the other is to the drain of a FET. The FET closes to ground. On mine (bound in X mode), three of the FET outputs blink at a 1Hz rate and the fourth is steady on. Makes sense if I was bound in + mode but I'm not. Not sure about that bit.

So I wonder if they are planning on releasing a light kit. 3mm LEDs are a nice press fit in the holes in the bottom of the motor caps. They would need new booms with pre-installed wires plus connectors installed in the pads on the board.

But I gotta say that I'm not sure I like the idea of blinking LEDs beyond the "cool factor". For night orientation, I'd much prefer steady LEDs. But who knows.... I haven't added LEDs yet... they might be changeable with some form of binding ritual or previously unannounced switch position.

Anyone else looked into those pads? And is there a ready source for the male and female connector sets?

Paul

Well, I got some connectors today, bypassed the missing dropping resistors and installed some LEDs. The outputs defintely do blink in a circular pattern. However, the output for the right front boom is not active. It looked like an open drain the same as the other three, but closer examination seems to show it may connect to a pin on the micro instead. But there definitely IS a FET there in the same relative position as the other three. So I'm stumped for now.... I'm not absolutely sure the outputs are for LEDs. They sure LOOK like it, though.

I tried it in both X and + configuration... no difference.

In the process of playing with it I also discovered that flashing LEDs are definitely NOT good for orientation. At least not the way these flash. They flash in a circular pattern with some dead time between one LED and the next (more off time than on time), with about a second per cycle. The result is that any given LED is not on long enough (or perhaps I should say that it is off too long) to be useful for orientation. So I'm not too sad that all four didn't work, and I went back to my original setup with continuously lit LEDs. It was a fun experiment, though.

Still wondering what those outputs are REALLY for. Maybe there is a hidden programming step that changs the flash sequence??

Paul

ok all, dont bitch at me.........lol
I love the MQX and still fly it....crash it, but the lift weight is limeted and the wind factor
is, well,,,,,,,,you know.

So
I got a Walkera MX400 and OMG (!!!) what a cool rig this is. Wind is not as deadly, it takes a 3s lipo, it will pick up a lb at least (500 grams) and omg is it easier to fly than the MQX! .

I have like 3 short flights on it., one at night with the LEDs got me all excited, another for 3 mins in my bosses shop, and then in one of my old shops (I used to run) I flew it with my son.
Now he has messed around with the MQX and loved it but this time I brought both the MQX and the MX400. We flew thes bad boys in a 40.000 sq ft building. Lots of dust but no wind.

This is the first time my son flew the MX400 and he did great!!!! we had tons of fun flying both quads.
The MQX had probs flying in the turbulance of the MX400..........lol

He, (my son) said the MX400 was easier to fly then the Mqx QUAD, I tend to agree.

You guys have got to check this out for sure. Now I still love the MQX but..............quad fever dudes......you have got to try one for sure.

today I busted a prop because a dam birch tree jumped out in front of my quad. so tomorrow, my chain saw comes out.......................lol if you have been to my website, you would understand.

Originally Posted by Toywizard

...
So
I got a Walkera MX400 and OMG (!!!) what a cool rig this is. Wind is not as deadly, it takes a 3s lipo, it will pick up a lb at least (500 grams) and omg is it easier to fly than the MQX! .
...

One question: is the MX400 easier to flip and do aerobatics than the mQx?

One comment: With single rotor (main rotor/tail rotor) helicopters, I have been told that larger helicopters tend to be easier to fly, do aerobatics, handle more wind, etc. than smaller helicopters (I have only flown smaller helicopters myself).
But, I have been also told that when a larger helicopter crashes, it is more easily damaged, causes more damage and is more costly to repair than a smaller helicopter.

It sounds like the first part is also true for an MX400 vs. mQx.
I am wondering if the second part is also true.

Originally Posted by flying-llama

One question: is the MX400 easier to flip and do aerobatics than the mQx?

One comment: With single rotor (main rotor/tail rotor) helicopters, I have been told that larger helicopters tend to be easier to fly, do aerobatics, handle more wind, etc. than smaller helicopters (I have only flown smaller helicopters myself).
But, I have been also told that when a larger helicopter crashes, it is more easily damaged, causes more damage and is more costly to repair than a smaller helicopter.

It sounds like the first part is also true for an MX400 vs. mQx.
I am wondering if the second part is also true.

well.........................the heavier the machine is, the more stable it will be. Hevier usually means and equals to more weight and money.
30 nitro vs 50 nitro and so on.
now electrics change the playing field substansually,,,,,,,,(I spell sh.tty)
Lets face it...you spent $1200 for your Heli, a $200 repair is not that bad. I spend $150 for a heli, a $78 repair is not that bad. Remembe guys , its all relative.

I spent $400 for my latest quad , MX400 and crashed today so I needed a prop, ordered extras and two extra batteries. Spend $400, upgrade and repair spending $125 and its all realitive.

My Quad MQX busted props and not yet motors but..................got it for $160 rtf and repair for $75-95 at least 3 times............so fun is expensive but fun is fun. It may take several paychecks to replace the parts but.............................you know what I mean.

Originally Posted by Toywizard

My Quad MQX busted props and not yet motors but..................got it for $160 rtf and repair for $75-95 at least 3 times............so fun is expensive but fun is fun. It may take several paychecks to replace the parts but.............................you know what I mean.

I have knocked my MqX into a number of objects but have never broken a prop. I also have not had to replace any component that would have cost $75-95 each time if there would have been a severe crash.

Do you really own a MqX???

i have never seen any poster so far claiming a repair for $75-$95, never mind three times. I agree probably he does not own a Mqx.