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Old Mar 19, 2013, 01:56 PM
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Printing on foam

How do you print on foam? Is there an alternative to printing, if I don't have a printer?
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Old Mar 19, 2013, 04:48 PM
Micro Crazy Man
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for printing on foam I use a product called inkaid you can google it by name Inkaid works great. As an alternative you can paint it with thinned acrylic paint I use Windex to thin it down but water is fine also. You can check my Blog and see printed on foam planes using the inkaid . There are some threads started on using the product its as easy as paint it on let it dry print what you want onto the new canvas. if you need some help let me know I do all my foam GFX in ink
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Old Mar 20, 2013, 03:29 PM
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Search this forum for "inkaid" and for "printing on foam". These topics have been thoroughly discussed in the past.

When searching, go to advanced search and select "All Words". Leave out prepositions, verbs, adverbs, etc. Just use nouns and selected (obvious) adjectives.

Didn't pay attention in sixth grade? Tch Tch.
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Old Mar 20, 2013, 03:40 PM
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What is this ''School House Rock''
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Old Mar 20, 2013, 08:01 PM
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If you don't have a printer you're pretty much stuffed for any of the finishes that apply colour, finish and intricate detail in one go. Looks like you could be stuck with paint and marker pen details. Not the easiest way to get both sides alike, but it does the job.
To me it seems very strange to have a computer without a printer, it only requires a common inkjet job. I use an Epson SX235W, with waterproof inks, but dye inks work just as well over Inkaid, and are MUCH cheaper. The Inkaid itself makes them more water resistant - try washing some off if you stuff up. It might blur them a tiny bit but that's about all.
The waterproof inks don't come into their own until you start getting into printed tissue finishes on open framework models.

Pete
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Old Mar 21, 2013, 11:20 AM
A.K.A sir Crashalot
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Pete can You explain what has to be modified and in wich way to be able to print on for example 1mm depron? or does it alreaddy have a straight feedthrou that can take more than a photopaper ?
It looks like a nice but very expensive printer thou.

/Ulf
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Old Mar 21, 2013, 11:33 AM
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Everybody makes it seem so simple ..Yet I'm having difficulties.
My printers are apparently disposable.. what a waste of resources.. as the cost of the printer is typically 1/2 the price of replacement ink refills. Notwithstanding the all too soon clearly obvious fact that New printers come with 1/3 full 'demo' cartridges. Even diy refiling is precluded as the cartridges cannot be, due to their imbedded microchips
Colour laser units: ~$100 for a decent Samsung full colour laser... Great!
But ~$3/400 for 'full' toner refills. Yikes! Do we need explore the price of a Fuser drum ?
Beyond all that there is the straight paper path problem... for media that doesn't bend happily
Only a v few inkets can do that and I believe No lasers do.
So.. I'm left with sticking some tissue onto a piece of plain paper and printing on it. And buying a new inkjet gizmo ..every month or 3.. sigh.
Or simply printing onto plain paper and glue sticking it to a foam model. Ample precedents of this in 'scratchbuilt foamies' weight and model size are factors there though.
Thinking of going to a local printshop, armed with my USB dongle and pay them to print my sheets using their commercial grade machines. Plus I get to have it redone.. when / if bungled.
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Old Mar 21, 2013, 01:44 PM
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Ulf,
Expensive? I bought mine used for £20 on Ebay. For that money I got a new looking printer, installation disc, partially used large size Durabrite inks fitted and three of the four (no black) large size spare inks (Durabrite).

I've changed nothing. 1 mm foam will feed quite happily through the 90 degree feed and I print on the envelope setting to keep the print head clear of the foam. That works well for printed tissue too.
Both these models were printed using it. The Dr1 is 1 mm foam. The Easbourne has wheels now.

Pete
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Old Mar 21, 2013, 02:42 PM
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as for feeding, most back fed printers feed at a 60 degreee angle. this works most of the time.
you also can sand down the 1mm depron, so one side has no skin left. makes it a littler floppier.

edit: i forgot, you can also use spray adhesive on tissue paper and attach to a carrier sheet of standard paper and print on that. then carefully remove tissue and afix to foam or balsa.

epson ink is great, waterproof ink. but the printers tend to clog if not used every week or so.

esaki tissue prints very nice, sharp colors. so far that is the best tissue ive found for printing. shortysbasement.com had it for sale for a nice prince.
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Old Mar 21, 2013, 03:40 PM
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So it's 1mm the maximum height that can be printed with deskjets?
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Old Mar 21, 2013, 05:27 PM
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I have an HP LaserJet CP1525nw color printer. I don't know if this would work for 1mm foam.
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Old Mar 21, 2013, 07:41 PM
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If that's a laser printer, I wouldn't want to use it on any thickness of foam - it would melt it.

How thick the foam can be will depend entirely on the printer you're using. I know mine will handle 1 mm foam, my old Epson CX3300 would do 1.5 mm. Maybe this will too, I just haven't tried it. The BX300 F I had before this one struggled with 1 mm - the feed rollers grooved it. For the venue we use models made from 1.5 mm or thicker are simply too heavy to fly without bouncing off walls so I'm unlikely to try it.

Pete
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Old Mar 21, 2013, 09:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by i r irv View Post
what is this ''school house rock''
snark report
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Old Mar 24, 2013, 09:31 AM
A.K.A sir Crashalot
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Pete. I only googled it and here in sweden the best price was about 415$ Maybe its an old price and theyre discontinnued. For 20$ i would run out and buy it emediatly
I shall investigate further.

And the eastbourne of Yours is my test-plan to run thru my diy lasercutter to test settings and focuslengths. havent got it right yet thou.
its very close to the top on my todo-build allso.
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Old Mar 25, 2013, 04:31 AM
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Ouch!!! Yes, that is a bit expensive. I think many of the SX series have been discontinued since although Argos listed two, what they actually had in stock were the SP series that don't use waterproof ink. A big shame because they listed them at around £35 new.

1 mm foam is as thick as it will handle easily, and that depends on your interpretation of 1 mm. If it's slightly thicker you get roller marks on the foam. It still prints fine but the marks could prove a problem in some instances.
Yesterday I printed off most of the parts for 3 models (P-51, Bearcat and F3F-3). Those on 1 mm depron (the Japanese version) showed no grooves, thin Durobatics (I still have a little left) was absolutely fine but thick Durobatics showed obvious grooves. Nothing to make them unuseable, but there nonetheless.

Pete
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