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Old Aug 15, 2006, 12:22 PM
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Sarge:

On the new EZ, I am considering putting the ESC out in the cooling breeze - either on top or on the side. You think that is a good choice - any drawbacks?
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Old Aug 15, 2006, 12:49 PM
"SARGE"
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Fairfax Station, (Northern) Virginia
Joined Jun 2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Socomon
Sarge:

On the new EZ, I am considering putting the ESC out in the cooling breeze - either on top or on the side. You think that is a good choice - any drawbacks?
Good question. There are advantages either way the choice is yours.

I have the sailplane mentality. If it's potential drag put it in the fuse. Also, if the power system is balanced there should not be excessive heat comming out of any component. As it is the EZ fuse is well vented; canopy gaps and the servo wire holes.

My heavy guage motor wires on their way to the canopy are glued inside the Wing saddle giving the saddle lot's of strength.

All my esc's use gold bullet connectors so I can move em around quick.
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Old Aug 16, 2006, 01:06 PM
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Perhaps since I bumped the ESC up toa Phoenix 25 amps, it won't get as warm as the thunderbird 18 did.
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Old Aug 29, 2006, 02:35 PM
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Chino, California
Joined Aug 2006
7 Posts
My Wife and I have the RTF version and after many crashes at the local school, resulting in a bent and ultimately SEVERED nose, I finally had some successfull flights today. YAY!!!

Not much in the way of mods, I flipped the rudder control pivot(forgot the right term) over so its on the bottom, and moved it inwards one hole. I just now reglued the nose again as I did manage to 'find' a tree and split the nose open a little. I've also cut slits in the side to run the power wires through so I could tape the canopy in place for extra strength during... unscheduled landings. Once I get to where that isn't a problem I'll pull the tape and do the velcro canapy mod.

Thanks everybody for the GREAT writeups on modifications. I'll be doing the extended rudder mod soon as so far I've only flown at a local park and have about 200' long by 150' wide so I was staying low(usually around 15') and slow since this in a city area. Cruising at probably 1/2 throttle.

A note to any other newbies that read this, the FMS simulator with the EasyStar package did wonders for helping me with the controls (coming at you right is left and left is right... UGH!!!)

If this post isn't in the right place, please feel free to move it, and I'm sorry for the error...

Chris (Chino, CA)
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Old Aug 30, 2006, 01:39 PM
"SARGE"
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Fairfax Station, (Northern) Virginia
Joined Jun 2003
3,150 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by fsj1978
My Wife and I have the RTF version and after many crashes at the local school, resulting in a bent and ultimately SEVERED nose, I finally had some successfull flights today. YAY!!!

Not much in the way of mods, I flipped the rudder control pivot(forgot the right term) over so its on the bottom, and moved it inwards one hole. I just now reglued the nose again as I did manage to 'find' a tree and split the nose open a little. I've also cut slits in the side to run the power wires through so I could tape the canopy in place for extra strength during... unscheduled landings. Once I get to where that isn't a problem I'll pull the tape and do the velcro canapy mod.

Thanks everybody for the GREAT writeups on modifications. I'll be doing the extended rudder mod soon as so far I've only flown at a local park and have about 200' long by 150' wide so I was staying low(usually around 15') and slow since this in a city area. Cruising at probably 1/2 throttle.

A note to any other newbies that read this, the FMS simulator with the EasyStar package did wonders for helping me with the controls (coming at you right is left and left is right... UGH!!!)

If this post isn't in the right place, please feel free to move it, and I'm sorry for the error...

Chris (Chino, CA)
If you are talking EZ builds, mods, tips, tricks, upgrades, cool stuff this is the thread. Thanks for the post and you guys keep at it.

Sarge
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Old Sep 03, 2006, 10:09 PM
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Chino, California
Joined Aug 2006
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I pulled our 'Star apart for mods today. I'm figuring on doing the magnetic wing joining mod as well as the extended rudder mod, nothing super fancy. Someone was talking about hard disks having some good magnets so I pulled one apart. Yep, 2 strong magnets where the read/write heads are located. Question is, how to cut them down to size or should I just go buy rare earth magnets? These suckers are STRONG, I can't immagine pulling the wings apart with these in there. Maybe if I cut them in half to make 2 pairs for fore/aft? I thought about velcro but I think that little "CLICK!" would be a very comforting sound each time the wings were attached. Either that or some kind of a pin that went through the top of the fusalodge, through the wing, and into the lower portion of the fuse? Any ideas or opinions are welcome, though not necessarily headed.
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Old Sep 04, 2006, 07:01 AM
"SARGE"
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Fairfax Station, (Northern) Virginia
Joined Jun 2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fsj1978
I pulled our 'Star apart for mods today. I'm figuring on doing the magnetic wing joining mod as well as the extended rudder mod, nothing super fancy. Someone was talking about hard disks having some good magnets so I pulled one apart. Yep, 2 strong magnets where the read/write heads are located. Question is, how to cut them down to size or should I just go buy rare earth magnets? These suckers are STRONG, I can't immagine pulling the wings apart with these in there. Maybe if I cut them in half to make 2 pairs for fore/aft? I thought about velcro but I think that little "CLICK!" would be a very comforting sound each time the wings were attached. Either that or some kind of a pin that went through the top of the fusalodge, through the wing, and into the lower portion of the fuse? Any ideas or opinions are welcome, though not necessarily headed.
There have been good reports using rare earth magnets. Keep in mind that many have done nothing at all and the wings stay on fine. If they get loose dip em in some of Brandie's Elaptor soup (boiling h2o).
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Old Sep 05, 2006, 10:42 AM
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Chino, California
Joined Aug 2006
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Being new to this, and having a desire to modify about anything I ever touch I've been thinking and reading about aileron mods. I've been reading that people have met with limited success. I was wondering if you could split the elevator and use a computer radio to use it as both an elevator and kind of aileron? I know the elevator works very well on this aircraft but I'm guessing it wouldn't have a whole lot of effect inducing roll due to the wing design? I'm sure you can tell where I'm going with this, what do you guys think???
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Old Sep 06, 2006, 09:15 PM
"SARGE"
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Fairfax Station, (Northern) Virginia
Joined Jun 2003
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Different Types of battery packs

I have posted a picture showing different types of battery packs/chargers/balancers/power supplies. I will work on identifying some in the picture for you folks that are new to the hobby. You will see that many of the batteries are interchangable between planes, including the EZ.

1. Down front and center are two "real" 5 cell Firebird packs actually used in a Firebird II 2 ch airplane (one of my first planes ). A much larger (9) cell IP1200 firebird configuration pack sits next to them which powers the Mega 16/14/4 in my EZ. Fire bird configured packs are short/squat and fit nicely in cockpits.

2. Off to the right you can see a Hitec CG340 Nimh/Nicad charger. An excellent inexpensive old work horse. If you can find one of these used for 10/15 bucks ditch the RTF EZ Charger.

3. To the right you can see a Radio Shack 3 amp heavy duty power supply. Enough ooomph to charge most batteries.

4. Top center is a 13 amp industrial power supply. I paid $22.00 for it. High quality and powerful power supply.

You can get them here under the accessories tab: http://www.lightflightrc.com/

5. The red Charger on the left is a GreatPlanes Triton. You can find them for as low as $89.00. Charges Lipos too. Maybe still one of the best all round chargers for the buck.

6. The packs stacked top right center are old 8 cell 1400 mah Unicorn Wing Packs. I now use the PolyRC 20c 3S pack in the Unicorn and I use it in the EZ as well. Great pack lot's of power no heating up.

7. The Yellow pack front bottom right is a 7 cell 400 mah Nimh stick pack used in a GWS Tiger Moth. The Tiger Moth also uses the 1250 2S and 1200 mah 2s lipolys (blue and yellow) located middle left

8. On the right side are a stack of 8 cell 1950 Sanyo FAUP and GP2000 stick packs used in a Combat Wings XE2. These packs are of high quality and can take a beating.

9 On the top right next to the Unicorn packs are 3 (8) cell 1950 Faup 2x2 stick packs made up for the Bird of Prey. Next to that is an (10) cell IB 1400 2x3 stick pack used in the BOP. It will work in the EZ too, especially in windy conditions.

UPDATE: 7/31/07 Information of a good lipo charging system

I needed a newer charger/balancer to do a better, and safer, job charging all the different types of lipos I have. There are several excellent chargers out there. I decided to give this charger a try. It's designed to charge up to 4s lipos which covers my need. It also has a repair setting that deals with way out of balance cells, etc.

http://www.fmadirect.com/detail.htm...2218&section=45

I also bought these adaptors to help cover the diverse range of charge taps.

http://www.fmadirect.com/detail.htm...2196&section=45

http://www.fmadirect.com/detail.htm...2125&section=45

If you guys are thinking about going to lipos or upgrading you might consider this charger. You can get all this for around $100.00 shipped.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=501252

Sarge
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Old Sep 07, 2006, 12:32 AM
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Chino, California
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...
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Old Sep 13, 2006, 06:03 PM
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Joined Sep 2006
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Hi, mine just arrived today

I have a couple of questions:

(1) The model shop I bought it from is insisting I should use UHU-Por (A german elapor glue) to glue it together instead of Cyano as they says it's too brittle, but the manual says use cyano.

(2) secondly is there a way to lightly glue the fuselage in combination with tape so the fuselage can be taken apart and motor can be removed, to re-wire etc.... or is this not possible as you have to glue the tail plane on quite well?

(3) or could I just use magnets + some tape to hold the fuselage together like the wing mod? whilst only gluing the tail plane (so the fuselage could be opened from the front like a split cane)?

thanks for any help (I start building thursday)

cheers for now. & thanks again for great tips.
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Old Sep 13, 2006, 06:28 PM
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Joined Jun 2004
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Yes, that's what I did with mine. I used masking tape which sticks very well to hold the fuse together and glued the tail parts on. I can remove or slit the tape and open the fuse up all the way to the tail if I want. No glue at all, only on the tail and to hold the motor on. I even taped the pushrods in, thought it would be lighter than glue.
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Old Sep 13, 2006, 06:53 PM
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United States, AZ, Fountain Hills
Joined Apr 2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lucaswv
Hi, mine just arrived today

I have a couple of questions:

(1) The model shop I bought it from is insisting I should use UHU-Por (A german elapor glue) to glue it together instead of Cyano as they says it's too brittle, but the manual says use cyano.

Uhu Por is for styrofoam (is that styrene in Europe?) not Elapor. Cyano works great except there is no working time as it sets up almost immediately -with the kicker that's recommended. PU glue (gorilla glue) holds elapor together well and allows a good bit of working time.

(2) secondly is there a way to lightly glue the fuselage in combination with tape so the fuselage can be taken apart and motor can be removed, to re-wire etc.... or is this not possible as you have to glue the tail plane on quite well?

People have used double sided poster tape on both sides of the fuselage, after cleaning the surfaces with alcohol. I think Brandie (Grassy Knoll) posted on this in the main EasyStar thread, but I can't find the post now.

(3) or could I just use magnets + some tape to hold the fuselage together like the wing mod? whilst only gluing the tail plane (so the fuselage could be opened from the front like a split cane)?

I don't think I would trust magnets on the fuse.

thanks for any help (I start building thursday)

cheers for now. & thanks again for great tips.
The above suggestions are my opinions as I am trying to be helpful.
Keep searching and reading and I'm sure you'll figure out how to build the EZ* just the way you want it!

Good luck
Mike
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Old Sep 14, 2006, 01:25 AM
I'm Ginger & called Adam
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Hereford, UK
Joined Oct 2002
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I have three EZ* assembled using the 'watery thin' Cyano - one of them has over 400 flights and it's still 100% solid. Using the 'wicking' Cyano means you can assemble everything together and check alignment before running the glue into the gap. This makes tail/rudder setup very easy.

Downside is that you probably can't take it apart (I've not tried but I'd imagine it was close to impossible without damage to the foam parts).

Adam

Quote:
Originally Posted by lucaswv
Hi, mine just arrived today

I have a couple of questions:

(1) The model shop I bought it from is insisting I should use UHU-Por (A german elapor glue) to glue it together instead of Cyano as they says it's too brittle, but the manual says use cyano.

(2) secondly is there a way to lightly glue the fuselage in combination with tape so the fuselage can be taken apart and motor can be removed, to re-wire etc.... or is this not possible as you have to glue the tail plane on quite well?

(3) or could I just use magnets + some tape to hold the fuselage together like the wing mod? whilst only gluing the tail plane (so the fuselage could be opened from the front like a split cane)?

thanks for any help (I start building thursday)

cheers for now. & thanks again for great tips.
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Old Nov 09, 2006, 10:51 PM
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United States, MD, Lexington Park
Joined May 2006
120 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by fsj1978
I pulled our 'Star apart for mods today. I'm figuring on doing the magnetic wing joining mod as well as the extended rudder mod, nothing super fancy. Someone was talking about hard disks having some good magnets so I pulled one apart. Yep, 2 strong magnets where the read/write heads are located. Question is, how to cut them down to size or should I just go buy rare earth magnets? These suckers are STRONG, I can't immagine pulling the wings apart with these in there. Maybe if I cut them in half to make 2 pairs for fore/aft? I thought about velcro but I think that little "CLICK!" would be a very comforting sound each time the wings were attached. Either that or some kind of a pin that went through the top of the fusalodge, through the wing, and into the lower portion of the fuse? Any ideas or opinions are welcome, though not necessarily headed.
Talking about the magnets...

Is that such a good idea? I just got done with a physics class dealing specifically with electricity and magnets. If I recall correctly, magnets don't like things that have electricity moving through them. Especially if you're looking at some powerful magnets to keep that wing together. They might even interfere with the signal received by the Rx. Perhaps this has been discussed earlier, but I haven't been able to page through the entire thread yet. I don't possess an Easystar currently but on several of my other planes, the wings are right above all of the electronics.
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