HobbyKing.com New Products Flash Sale
Reply
Thread Tools
Old Nov 06, 2013, 03:37 PM
Livin it UP when Im goin DOWN
Arcteryxxx's Avatar
Norway, Telemark, Skien
Joined Feb 2010
4,352 Posts
Yuri; just a silly question: why didn't you keep the shape of the horizontal and vertical stabs from the X? Would be a great design signature to have it in the Formula too, IMHO.
Arcteryxxx is offline Find More Posts by Arcteryxxx
Reply With Quote
Sign up now
to remove ads between posts
Old Nov 06, 2013, 04:03 PM
One Idiot is plenty...
Dbox's Avatar
Planet Earth
Joined Jun 2005
5,186 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Arcteryxxx View Post
Yuri; just a silly question: why didn't you keep the shape of the horizontal and vertical stabs from the X? Would be a great design signature to have it in the Formula too, IMHO.
As I mentioned before,Formula is totally different plane then X.
Wing planform is dictating horizontal stab shape , huge vertical area keeps loaded
with batteries
Formula,stable on turns
I do have smaller horizontal stab for Formula.
Have not tried it yet in flight.

X-Plane's vertical/horizontal shape,I keep for the future project
and even have name for it- " X-tend".
Yuri
Dbox is offline Find More Posts by Dbox
Reply With Quote
Old Nov 08, 2013, 11:33 AM
F5D user
marknopfler's Avatar
Israel
Joined Jun 2005
132 Posts
WOW !!!
I want ONE !!!
GREAT WORK
marknopfler is offline Find More Posts by marknopfler
Reply With Quote
Old Nov 15, 2013, 10:57 PM
Registered User
Lenny970's Avatar
Greeley, Colorado, USA
Joined Feb 2000
2,864 Posts
Formula HV build is started

I received one of the first Formula HV's and I'm pretty impressed it. I've already seen the beautiful finish work that Yuri does on the X-plane, so I wasn't too surprised by the awesome finish on this model.
It's got loads of carbon in it and feels solid and strong. I really like the larger size too -- it should have good visibility in the air.
I haven't decided on a power setup yet, but I'll be using one of the 15xx series Neu motors.

Yuri asked me to take some pics during the build to show how it's done, so I'll do my best to capture most of the building steps and explain the process along the way.
Note that there is often more than one way to do things. I make no claim that the build process shown here is the only way, or even the best way -- just the way I chose to do it.

So, on with the build!

I generally like to start by installing the servos in the wing.
The servo wells have a slight recess molded in to allow for the thickness of the servo covers. Inside the recessed area, there are scribed lines indicating the part to be cut out.
I used a dremel bit to do the cutout, then any rough edges can be cleaned up with a file.

Lenny
Lenny970 is offline Find More Posts by Lenny970
Reply With Quote
Old Nov 15, 2013, 11:26 PM
Registered User
Lenny970's Avatar
Greeley, Colorado, USA
Joined Feb 2000
2,864 Posts
Servos

I decided to use all MKS DS6100 servos in the wing. They have good centering, are the right size, and should have plenty of power for the job.
There isn't quite enough room to use servo frames, so I cut off the mounting tabs and wrapped the servos in some GOOD QUALITY masking tape.
The servos will be epoxied into the wing. In the event that I may need to remove a servo one day, I will simply cut the masking tape, peel it away from the servo, and pry the servo out.
On the DS6100 servos, the side of the case where the servo lead exits has a very pronounced protrusion that can obstruct the clevis. I will be positioning the servos with this protrusion toward the leading edge, to prevent any clearance problems.

Before installing the servos, I will prepare the servo arms.
For the ailerons, I chose the small servo arm (7.0mm from clevis hole to center).
I power up and center the servo using a servo driver, then install the arm 1 or 2 spline notches toward the rear. This will allow the ailerons to have plenty of "up" travel available for spoilerons, and gives the clevis a bit more clearance.
Once both aileron servos have their servo arms mounted, I will hold them back to back to make sure they are identical.
Lenny970 is offline Find More Posts by Lenny970
Reply With Quote
Old Nov 15, 2013, 11:28 PM
Registered User
Highfly!'s Avatar
United States, CA, Cameron Park
Joined May 2007
1,259 Posts
Yuri, Have you already set a price for it?

Time for my X to have a bigger brother....
Highfly! is offline Find More Posts by Highfly!
Site Sponsor
Reply With Quote
Old Nov 15, 2013, 11:43 PM
Registered User
Lenny970's Avatar
Greeley, Colorado, USA
Joined Feb 2000
2,864 Posts
For the flap servos, I decided to use the inside hole on the long servo arm (7.5mm).
Again, I use a servo driver to adjust the servo position. With the flap servo in the full down position, I want the servo arm to be straight back toward the trailing edge.
This puts the pushrod in a good position to reach the flap horn and provides a "lock-out" in the linkage to reduce strain on the servo gears if a flap is dragged on landing.

Moving the servo driver to the opposite end of it's travel, the flap servos are in their full up position.
Since we want to have the ability to mix flaps with ailerons, the full up position should have the flaps a few degrees above the neutral point. This usually means that the servo arm ends up near 90 degrees when the flaps are at neutral.
Planning this now will make things easier when it's time to program the radio.
Again, I will hold the servos back to back to make sure their servo arm positions are identical.
Lenny970 is offline Find More Posts by Lenny970
Last edited by Lenny970; Nov 16, 2013 at 12:02 AM.
Reply With Quote
Old Nov 16, 2013, 12:21 AM
One Idiot is plenty...
Dbox's Avatar
Planet Earth
Joined Jun 2005
5,186 Posts
Thank You Lenny so much for helping me out and do one professional build.
MKS 6100 is one of my favorite servos too,hard to beat control smoothness and centering precision .Only thing I did notice,they quite "hungry" servos and "eat "battery fast.
Yuri
Dbox is offline Find More Posts by Dbox
Reply With Quote
Old Nov 16, 2013, 12:34 AM
One Idiot is plenty...
Dbox's Avatar
Planet Earth
Joined Jun 2005
5,186 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Highfly! View Post
Yuri, Have you already set a price for it?
I guess You missed this one .


http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2031349

I will start working full speed Dec 1.
.......still on vacation
Yuri
Dbox is offline Find More Posts by Dbox
Reply With Quote
Old Nov 16, 2013, 12:42 AM
Registered User
Joined May 2011
153 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dbox View Post
...
I do have smaller horizontal stab for Formula.
Have not tried it yet in flight.
Hi Yuri,
no fear... at the end it depends most on the airfoil used on the wing with the lift needed to get a safe and fast acceleration bow in the horizontal path.

Which foil is used ? Ok, maybe its secret, if so, whats the cm(0) value of it and max Lift at Re=2.500.000 (Should be known value)? 10% of wing is a bit big anyway

Regs Domi
plastikmann is offline Find More Posts by plastikmann
Reply With Quote
Old Nov 16, 2013, 12:53 AM
One Idiot is plenty...
Dbox's Avatar
Planet Earth
Joined Jun 2005
5,186 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by plastikmann View Post
Hi Yuri,
no fear... at the end it depends most on the airfoil used on the wing with the lift needed to get a safe and fast acceleration bow in the horizontal path.

Which foil is used ? Ok, maybe its secret, if so, whats the cm(0) value of it and max Lift at Re=2.500.000 (Should be known value)? 10% of wing is a bit big anyway

Regs Domi
No secrets here.
Foil is modified MH 33
I will post all the numbers when I get back home from vacation.
Yuri
Dbox is offline Find More Posts by Dbox
Reply With Quote
Old Nov 16, 2013, 11:34 AM
Registered User
Lenny970's Avatar
Greeley, Colorado, USA
Joined Feb 2000
2,864 Posts
The location of the bump on the servo covers will dictate the position of the servos. Note that the flap servo wells are a bit larger than the aileron wells, so the two larger covers will be used for the flaps.
I found that positioning the servo arm 10mm from the edge of the recess works well for the ailerons, and 13mm works well for the flaps.

One drawback of the DS6100 servos is that they have a very pronounced protrusion on one end that can obstruct the linkage.
To avoid any issues with this, I will orient the servos to place this protrusion forward toward the leading edge.
With the servo pushed up against the wing spar, the servo arm will be positioned nicely underneath the servo cover bump.

After test fitting the servos, the inside of the top skin is roughed up with some coarse sand paper.
I mixed up some 5-minute epoxy and added some structural filler to thicken it, and glued the servos in place.
Lenny970 is offline Find More Posts by Lenny970
Reply With Quote
Old Nov 16, 2013, 11:50 AM
Registered User
Lenny970's Avatar
Greeley, Colorado, USA
Joined Feb 2000
2,864 Posts
The next step will make some people cringe a little.
We need to make the cutouts in the top of the wing for pushrod clearance, and these cutouts need to be in line with the servo arm.
I used a long drill bit for this task. It is held directly over the servo arm and I drilled into the corner where the top wing skin meets the sub spar.

Once I had a hole through the top wing skin, I added a piece of masking tape and used a template to mark the required cutout (about 6mm x 18mm).
A few minutes with the dremel and the cutout is done. I cut away about 1/2 of the sub spar below the cutout, and may grind away a bit more later if needed.
Lenny970 is offline Find More Posts by Lenny970
Reply With Quote
Old Nov 16, 2013, 11:51 AM
Relax, have a Cub
mewert's Avatar
College Place, WA.
Joined Apr 2004
1,012 Posts
In my experience, masking tape dries out and deteriorates after a few months. Have you used this method before with success?
mewert is offline Find More Posts by mewert
Reply With Quote
Old Nov 16, 2013, 12:19 PM
Registered User
Lenny970's Avatar
Greeley, Colorado, USA
Joined Feb 2000
2,864 Posts
A piece of masking tape is placed on the control surface and the location of the control horn is marked.
It should be 90 degrees to the hinge line, so the control surface is bent down so the wiper can be used to align the square.

Next, the control horns are placed on the wing to determine how far to cut the slot in the wing.
The aileron horns should be aligned directly over the back edge of the wiper.
The flap horns should be further forward, so they are aligned with the back edge of the top wing skin.

The dremel is used to make a rounded cutout in the wiper, then the slots in the top wing skin are made.
Once completed, the slots may need a little dressing up with a small file to fit the servo arms well.

The control horns are then test fit into the wing.
Verify that the clevis hole is aligned directly over the back of the wiper for the aileron horns, and the back of the wing skin for the flap horns.
Lenny970 is offline Find More Posts by Lenny970
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools

Similar Threads
Category Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
For Sale New Castle Creations HV-85; ICE2 HV80; ICE2 HV160 - Used HV-85 & HV-110 jgalexander Aircraft - Electric - Power Systems (FS/W) 5 Jul 01, 2013 10:46 PM
For Sale New Castle Creations HV-85; ICE2 HV80; ICE2 HV160 - Used HV-85 & HV-110 jgalexander Aircraft - Electric - Power Systems (FS/W) 1 Jun 20, 2013 03:20 PM
For Sale Hobby Wing HV ESC & HV BEC ravikoth Aircraft - Electric - Power Systems (FS/W) 0 Feb 17, 2013 12:29 PM
Sold JETFAN 90 & HV ESC With HV BEC ravikoth Aircraft - Electric - Jets (FS/W) 4 Feb 13, 2013 03:00 AM
For Sale Spektrum AR8000, MaxAmps 4S 11000, DW crash cage jackwrangham Aircraft - Electric - Multirotor (FS/W) 2 Sep 25, 2012 08:24 AM