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Old Sep 01, 2012, 07:59 PM
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Build Log
Skyangel / Jpower A-10 Warthog 35mm EDF

After doing several versions of the A-10 Warthog over the years, when I saw the Skyangel A-10, I just had to add it to the collection. This one was purchased at www.Hobbyb.com in kit form rather than the plug and play version due to me already having the servos and the rest of the power system that came out of another Skyangel model. I've ordered several things from Hobbyb, a relatively new vender based out of Canada. The A-10 kit comes without control horns, control wires or decals. Fortunately, those parts are also available seperately from hobbyb as well.

This was a quick build that hardly took any time as most of the parts mock together easily. Some parts glue together, some use a plastic collar and screw. The parts mock together quickly for a test fit, then everything was disassembled for the proper build. The Vertical stabs were glued to the horizontal stabs and the whole assembly was glued to the bottom of the fuselage, 5 minute epoxy was the choice for these parts. The elevator joining rod was also glued into place to connect the elevator halves. That portion was set aside to dry.

The wing came with molded aileron hinges but it appeared to not be Skyangel's best effort. There was just not enough material holding the ailerons in place in my opinion. I seperated the ailerons, cut slots in the foam and used CA hinges to hold the ailerons in place. This worked perfectly and should last for countless flights. The Aileron servos were installed and the wire run in the slots already molded in the wing. The wires run to a center hole in the wing so that the wires exit the topside of the wing. The landing gear blocks and struts are also installed in the wing and the assembly is set aside to dry.
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Old Sep 01, 2012, 07:59 PM
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The elevator servo is installed under the tail prior to installing the power system.

The nacelles are a split design, the bottom half bolts to the top of the fuselage and holds the fans. The escs are routed under the nacelles and the assembly is bolted to the top of the fuselage and the wires run though the fuse up to the wing area. The wing is bolted into place. I use a some flexible foam glue to tack the fans into place. While those dry, the canopy is assembled. The pilot from another retired model is used as the kit doesn't come with a pilot figure like the plug and play version. The fuse add ons are also glued into place.
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Old Sep 01, 2012, 08:03 PM
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The control horns are installed and the top half of the nacelles are added. Everything was set aside to finish drying as the last parts to be installed would be the top half of the nacelles. The only real tricky part is the install of the upper nacelle halves. The side closest to the fuse is CA'd first and allowed to dry. Once those are set, the outer seam is glued, one has to be careful not to squeeze the nacelles in such a way as to distort the fan housing. I can't say it's the most elegant way Jpower could have designed the nacelles, but it does work. It's the only part of the assembly that requires any special attention at all.
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Old Sep 01, 2012, 08:13 PM
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I'll be using a 2s 800 mAh 40C lipo for the flight test. I had originally intended to go with 3s from the start, but this fuse is a little narrow and the two 5 blade fans had proven to provide acceptable power in the Skyangel Mig 29.

The CG was verified at 25mm (incorrect) back from leading edge of the wing to fuse joint, http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1675931

The fans were tested again, the flight surfaces were tested as well and the model is ready for the maiden flight. Once the initial flight tests are performed, the ordinance and decals will be added. The first flights will also be performed using a standard 4 channel receiver. Once a 6 channel receiver arrives, the model will be tested using flaps. This should allow slower landing speeds as well as a shorter take off distances.


The initial test flight(s) were not what I would call pleasant. With all the slop in the landing gear, there is no way this will track straight for a rolling take off, so the model was hand launched. It flew out pretty well but any elevator input had the model pitching up and down like a porpoise. At the CG of 25mm back, it took my total concentration to bring the model down in one piece as it felt seriously tail heavy. I had down elevator trim dialed in to obtain level flight but that created some problems when it came time for landing. I took the model up high and chopped power, sure enough.... the typical A-10 drop like a rock that's intent on blasting out an impact crater. The slightest bit of down elevator and it was the same result. After a couple cartwheeled landings, it was evident that it was far too touchy to fly well and landings were simply terrifying. I managed to barely squeeze a 2s 1000 mAh lipo that weighed a whopping 62 grams, the CG was now more like 20mm back from the leading edge. There appears to be some up incidence molded into the horizontal stab, evidently the manufacturer intends the model to be flown a little nose heavy. I reset the elevator trim to more neutral and gave it another go. The model flew right out and felt much more settled. The incredibly pitchy handling was now gone, the elevator responded well, the rolls were nice, the model bahaved like a larger model. The landing on the asphalt was butter smooth due to the now settled pitch control. I'm relieved, while I thought that the model looked good, it may have been a turd. What creates a bit of an issue is the extra foam molded in place to retain the nose wheel strut makes adding larger lipos difficult. I opted to add 14g of lead in the nose and revert back to a 2s 800 mAh 40C lipo for ease going in and out of the battery compartment. One more test flight in that configuration and all is great! Power is decent and the model doesn't require full power to fly well, the power system is adequate for normal flying. I'm very happy with it so now it's time to add the ordinance and decals.

The weight of the plane without lipo is now 142g and that includes the 14g of lead in the nose. The 2s 800 mAh 40C lipo is 48g. The 2s 1000 mAh was 62g so if I use that, the 14g of lead gets removed. So figure an AUW of 190g including ordinance and landing gear.

Here's a quick flight test video. Got lucky on the after landing taxi.

Skyangel A-10 Warthog 35mm EDF (2 min 6 sec)




The Pluses

*Durable prepainted EPO foam.
*Includes ordinance.
*Really simple build with interlocking parts along with collars and screws.
*Control horns, control rods and decals also available from the vender.

The Minuses

*Nacelle assembly could be designed to interlock, but there were still no issues in assembly.
*No pilot figure or landing gear available seperately like what is included in the Plug and Play versions.
*CG from the manufacturer in my opinion is not correct. 20mm back is much better.


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Last edited by Joe 1320; Sep 16, 2012 at 04:28 PM.
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Old Sep 01, 2012, 08:47 PM
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Great, Joe!!!...Looking forward to the flight review!!!

Has anyone besides me tried these SkyAngel EDF's on 4S besides me???...Trust me---They really scoot with the extra power!!!...All that is needed is an ESC change...

Kevin
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Old Sep 01, 2012, 09:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin Greene View Post
Great, Joe!!!...Looking forward to the flight review!!!

Has anyone besides me tried these SkyAngel EDF's on 4S besides me???...Trust me---They really scoot with the extra power!!!...All that is needed is an ESC change...

Kevin
I have followed your comments, haven't tried it yet.... what is the amp draw? You using 3 or 5 blade fans? What are the motor temps?
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Old Sep 01, 2012, 11:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Joe 1320 View Post
I have followed your comments, haven't tried it yet.... what is the amp draw? You using 3 or 5 blade fans? What are the motor temps?
5 blade fan...I had all of those specs that you ask of (sans the motor temps) written down but can't find them...But I do know that I'm using a 12 amp Turnigy Plush ESC and don't have any over amp cutoffs...

The thing is when measuring motor temps is that you really have to know what you are doing using a digital laser thermometer...I'm a trained digital thermographer and the emissivity of the component measured is VERY important...I'm seeing figures here on RCG that might as well be thrown out of the window due to not measuring properly...I'll try to paint a small section of the aft end of the can flat black to get a proper temperature reading...Measuring temps on shiny surfaces is useless as the emissivity of the object will give a false reading....

Kevin
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Old Sep 02, 2012, 08:46 AM
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Flight report added, the manufacturer CG I believe is incorrect. the model flys better at 20mm back rather than the suggested 25mm back.
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Old Sep 02, 2012, 03:01 PM
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Flight video added.
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Old Sep 02, 2012, 04:40 PM
it wasn't me flying that plane
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Joe,
A big thank yu for taking the time to write a thourough review...........chris
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Old Sep 07, 2012, 07:11 PM
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I finally have the landing gear dialed in, it lands in a straight line now. I'm lovin' this little A-10.
It's pretty sporty, but I'm still wondering what it would do on 3s.
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Old Sep 08, 2012, 11:10 AM
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A simple question if you don't mind?
The wee Motors that look like (smaller?) Don's wicked motors.
What are their dimensions : ie: length of can/bell and it's diameter ?
I have what looks similar, perhaps identical ?.
But it's difficult to judge from photos only at Hobby B.
thanks
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Old Sep 08, 2012, 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Bare View Post
A simple question if you don't mind?
The wee Motors that look like (smaller?) Don's wicked motors.
What are their dimensions : ie: length of can/bell and it's diameter ?
I have what looks similar, perhaps identical ?.
But it's difficult to judge from photos only at Hobby B.
thanks
I don't have any spares at the moment, I would have to pull apart a flyable airplane to measure. If you post a few photos I'll probably be able to tell you if it's the same.
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Old Sep 08, 2012, 12:27 PM
we can take off without that
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The mounting end is 10.3mm in diameter, and can mount up to 7mm deep. The bell is 17mm long (including tapered bit) and 14mm diameter.
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Old Sep 08, 2012, 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by green_flyer View Post
The mounting end is 10.3mm in diameter, and can mount up to 7mm deep. The bell is 17mm long (including tapered bit) and 14mm diameter.
Thanks for posting that!
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