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I'm going to build a little out of the manual's sequence, but rest assured it will all get covered!
![]() Starting with the Vertical Stab: For some reason, the Vertical Stab and the base where it meets the Fuse didn't line up properly... there was a good gap between the base and the LE of the rudder. Not a big deal; Trim away some foam as shown in the pic below and it lines right up! ![]() With that squared away, I started work on the Horizontal. On my first dry fit, the Rudder travel was a little binded up by a protruding piece of foam from the horizontal. Trim away a little bit on the area marked with Sharpie and you'll have full Rudder Throw (I like to Knife Edge... )You can go ahead and glue the rudder in now. Some 5 minute epoxy is what I used, but I work fast! If you need a little bit of time, go with the 15 minute stuff. After that came the task of installing of dropping in the servos. Since screwing them right into the foam was out of the question, I used the old tried-and-true *potting method* to secure them. Simply wrap your servo in some tape, then glue them with Foam Safe CA (or epoxy) into it's desired location. Don't worry, if you have to pull them out later for some reason, just peel the tape off and your servo come out nice and clean! Cut some slots in the base of the Stab to feed your servo leads through. RCL did a good job of molding a channel (that will later be covered by plastic) to keep your wires out of the thrust tube. Good job RCLander
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More stuff *woot*
Vertical Stabilzer Assembly:
Next step was to glue the Vertical Stab into place. But first things first, pre-fit your Vertical on there one more time and mark the location where your servo wires must go through the base. Go ahead and cut out a slot on each side for them, then go ahead and glue your Stab in (I used 15 minute epoxy for this task). The Assembly pretty much lines itself up, but always double check to make sure that its getting glued straight. Nose Assembly: Next step is to start work on the front end of the bird. I started off by wiring up the Nose retract and Nose steering servos. 9 grams servos are all you will need for these functions. I like the fact that its a perfectly straight shot from the servo to the linkage, it's going to make the servo's life alot easier! Center up your servos, bolt them into place on the hardwood support, and hook up your arms to the correct wire. I was careful and made straight Z-bends on each side... if you want a little room for error, put an EZ connector onto the servo arm... ![]() Once that's done, flip the Nose assembly over and locate your Intake splitter. Simple enough--- Pre-fit it, then glue it into place once you're satisfied with the fit. There's nothing more I'll really need to get to, so I went ahead and glued the Nose piece onto the Fuse. Some epoxy, a few minutes later, and the nose section is just about done! Feel free to glue on the Plastic nose cowl as well. I reccommend epoxy for this part... CA w/ Accelerator might get a little warm and melt/distort the plastic. |
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Joined May 2009
95 Posts
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Hey Mig Killer,
I was just wondering, on the previous build thread, there was a mention that the front landing gear had to be jacked up because the plane has a low angle of attack, which prevents the plane from taking off. Are you going to do anything about this? What would be your suggestions? |
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I did look at that. Have not made a decision yet. They claimed that the strut fully compresses when loaded up with batteries, which is possible, but we'll see.
Nonetheless, lowering the nose gear won't be hard if needed. Just cut out a square piece of light ply (probably 1/8") and glue it to the hardwood mount. ![]() Vic |
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The Wings
Glue'em Together:
Now it's time to glue those shiny wings together! I liked the way they fit together... lots of carbon rods overlapping in the center section, and each wing panel has it's own set of carbon imbedded in them. Pre-fit them, trim if required (mine did not require any trimming for a good fit), and mix up some epoxy to glue them together. You'll need a little bit of time to coat each area, so I'd recommend 15-minute stuff if you're quick, 30-minute if you feel you need some extra time. Wing Servos: Here's my first major gripe... Aileron-Servo Geometry. The stock servo pots throw the geometry waaaay off. A little bit is acceptable, but this much will probably make for a sloppy linkage, not to mention reduce the amount of throw and put unecessary strain on the servo. Lucky for us, that whole area gets covered by a small plastic servo cover. All I did to remedy the situation was reposition the servo for better geometry (much closer to 90 degrees), mark it with a pen, and cut the new area out with a sharp exacto... muuuch better. Once satisfied with the fit, I centered up the servos with the radio and glued them in place using the potting-method. Hook up your linkage, glue in your control horn, and you've got your ailerons all hooked up and ready to roll! (pun intended...) Mine came out with practically ZERO slop, and only minimal strain at max. throw.I opted to forgo the flaps, but they won't be very hard to install if I decide to do so later. They will get held on with some double-sided servo tape for now. Wings to the Fuse: When I first opened up the box and saw how big this thing was... I had to question how she was going to fit in the back seat of my car... (Mustangs are not meant for hauling stuff!) Fortunately, this baby's got removable wings!!! The entire Wing Assembly we just worked on gets held onto the the Fuselage with four 6-32 China Bolts. I say China bolts, because my Dubro 6-32 bolts went in a little, then got stuck... to avoid a cross-thread, I just used the ones in the kit. They work fine! That's it for now, more progress soon! Vic
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