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Old Sep 16, 2011, 11:22 AM
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Fort Worth, TX USA
Joined Feb 2001
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Build Log
Cartoon Mustang is here!

My intention is to design a cartoon model mustang that uses inexpensive equipment and small enough so you can toss it in the car for a little fun. It will not require shaping the foam sheets and yet not be "boxy". This will require some formed plastic parts that I'll make available on the website with the printed plans/ patterns.
Development
The first one was built to see how well a model like this will fly and to test and develop fitting plastic parts to the foam. From what I can tell, watching the videos posted on the threads these "fatty planes" are typically a handful to fly. The drag from the fuselage coupled with a flat airfoil may be the problem. I went with cartoon mustang title because the model is not as fat but skewed enough to "cartoon the model and allow me to exaggerate the features of a mustang. The model features an easy to build airfoil so the slow flying speeds will be more stable.
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Old Sep 16, 2011, 11:24 AM
RC 4 Life
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Fort Worth, TX USA
Joined Feb 2001
4,642 Posts
Being unsure about the incidence angle I gave the models stabilizer I told my test pilot Ron that he should be ready for the model to pitch down and it did. It's a good thing I always pick tall fluffy grass to fly over for test flights because it did. I adjusted the battery position 1/2 inch and he gave it three clicks of up and we gave it another try.
This time it flew right out of my hand and before I could get the camera ready Ron had finished his trim passes. When I seen him pull off a loop I knew a good flight was ahead because he usually asks first. After several loops and rolls it was back to business I had him bring it down for a few shots below the tree line for better photos then a landing to see how it puts up to belly landings.
I was surprised at how slow the model flew before touching down on the belly scoop. It tipped forward and stopped and I scooped it up for a quick inspection. All the equipment was fine, the motor was not excessively hot and the battery was only warm. The belly plastic and the bonds that hold it in place was just as good as when it left.
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Old Sep 16, 2011, 11:25 AM
RC 4 Life
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Fort Worth, TX USA
Joined Feb 2001
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Assessment

Looks like I have a good configuration to work with or as Ron put it "it's about time you had an easy one" . The next step is to build another one to test the patterns and see if I just got lucky. While I'm in there; I'll add a landing gear option since it performed so well. I don't think a little weight and drag will hurt it any. or at least not as bad as a lousy hand launch would.
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Old Sep 16, 2011, 11:26 AM
RC 4 Life
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Fort Worth, TX USA
Joined Feb 2001
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Availability.

I have short kits available on the website now www.parkflyerplastics.com
What you will get is the Plans and plastic parts listed on the site.
The plans would better be described as a pattern page since you don't actually build it over printed paper. The plastic parts is what makes this model go together so fast , there is no foam forming required.
The materials you will need is
One sheet of 3mm foam and less than 1/8 sheet of 6mm
Gorilla glue ( polyurethane glue)
An Out runner motor that can spin a 8 inch prop at 1800 KV
Three cell 800mah battery
10 amp ESC
Two small servos and a receiver.
Hinge material and other pieces of hardware.
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Last edited by sparks; Sep 07, 2013 at 10:42 AM.
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Old Sep 16, 2011, 11:29 AM
RC 4 Life
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Fort Worth, TX USA
Joined Feb 2001
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Before I start this construction thread you need to know that if you build the mustang you have built the whole warbird series. If you have been to the site you have seen the other cartoon models. I have designed them so the instructions are very close to being the same.

This post space will be be used for links to the other build threads as they are posted.
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Old Sep 16, 2011, 11:33 AM
RC 4 Life
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Fort Worth, TX USA
Joined Feb 2001
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Construction.

To build the cartoon mustang I started with the fuselage. I used spray adhesive to bond the patterns to card stock , About the thickness of large mail envelopes is about right.
I carefully cut the patterns out using scissors for the curved edges and a straight edge and hobby knife for the straight cuts. These straight cuts should be made on a smooth hard surface since you have to push down fairly hard; too hard for a craft cutting board.
If you don't have a cutting board get one, when you cut sheet foam it saves blades and keeps them from getting dull.
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Old Sep 16, 2011, 11:35 AM
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Fort Worth, TX USA
Joined Feb 2001
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The hardest part about cutting the formers was keeping the knife 90 degrees to the building surface, it's not hard at all. When you cut the 3mm side panels cut them at the same time. This ensures that they are identical. Before they are separated mark the former locations at the same time for the same reason. Note that the wing saddle curve has been oversized. This is to be sure there is material available for a perfect fit when the wing mates with the fuselage. To cut the saddle and get some extra material I simply slid the pattern down 1/8inch when I cut that portion of the fuselage sides.
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Old Sep 16, 2011, 11:41 AM
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Fort Worth, TX USA
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I started assembly with a former test fit. Each former notch is roughly 1/16 small on purpose this makes it necessary to bow the sides slightly to get the formers to fit in the notch. This snug fit allows assembly with a minimum amount of tape to hold it together. The servo mount plate is the exception , there is a slight curve that will require come clamping tape while the glue dries.

Note: there has been a development in the firewall construction.
I have damaged two planes to a cartwheel.
They were gentle enough that it should not have hurt the plane.
When the prop shaft contacts the ground it pushes the motor stick inward.
This caused long cracks from the corners of the mounts and draws the sides inwards.
The models were still intact but has to be dissembled for repair.
So, On the back of F-1 and F-2 add a 3 inch disk, 6mm thick.
This should distribute the force and prevent damage.
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Last edited by sparks; Jan 30, 2015 at 06:42 AM. Reason: AD
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Old Sep 16, 2011, 11:46 AM
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combatxe2's Avatar
buckinghamshire
Joined Oct 2004
238 Posts
plans???
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Old Sep 16, 2011, 12:24 PM
RC 4 Life
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Fort Worth, TX USA
Joined Feb 2001
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Calling them plans may be stretching it a bit since you don't build the model on the printed sheet .
It's more like a pattern sheet with a bunch of illustrations and instructions.
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Old Sep 16, 2011, 12:54 PM
Watt Waster
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Joined Oct 2010
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Comments on New 'Tang

Looks like a nice and easy build and I will add more comments when I get the "short-kit" in the mail. OK, I will let you know my impressions of the parts when I get them.

Dang, talk about timing! About 10 minutes after my last "edit" the mail lady came to my door and gave me the mail, which included the box with the 'Tang parts. My very first impression was one end of the top of the box was bulging, but no damage to the box was noted. The parts inside look great and remind me of old free flight kits I use to have, except the added plastic parts you included. Love the gray hound, the top and lower decks, and the interesting odds and ends, to include the spinner and back plate. Interesting plan sheet with lots of words and longer than usual. I will probably get a copy made and cut the copy for the build. I was surprised the canopy was so large, but it makes sense for the type of model and the big, long necked gray hound that goes under it, lol. I can see why this would be a fast build with the top and bottom in molded plastic, which will eliminate a lot of forming of curved parts. The four super magnets in the small ziplock is a clever idea and I see you get yours from the same folks I do. I am still planning to make magnet blocks (wood) for a sheet metal building pad/sheet, so I have been purchasing them off and on for a few years. I was going to make the blocks out of soft wood, but after thinking about it for a bit, I am going with the most stable hardwood I can get. Not yet sure which wood that would be.

I am very tempted to put a few other projects on hold and start yet another, lol. If I do, I will try to take a few dozen pictures for the others to gander at. You already have a great building thread started, so I'm not so sure I can add to it, except for the foam board I will use. Light blue foam board with white plastic parts should be very obvious to tell which is which. Thanks again for the speedy send off after my order. Until next time - best to you and your fun scale RC flyer efforts. I really like to see how other folks do things, and you have some very clever ideas shown in these short kits.
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Last edited by Tsavah; Sep 16, 2011 at 03:44 PM. Reason: Added Information for sparks
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Old Sep 16, 2011, 01:57 PM
RC 4 Life
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Fort Worth, TX USA
Joined Feb 2001
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open the boxes right away

When they arrive let me know how the parts did.
They are formed thin . . . . .I mean light weight.
When you handle the parts it will feel flimsy; just like the frame but together the strength will surprise you.
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Old Sep 16, 2011, 04:03 PM
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Roanoke Texas
Joined Jun 2007
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Kieth

looking good I will need to get one of these also.
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Old Sep 19, 2011, 12:24 PM
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Fort Worth, TX USA
Joined Feb 2001
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Keep in mind that while you are building the wing you can be working the fuselage.
Right now there are several small projects that can be drying at the same time that will be needed later.

Top turtle decks . . . . .Post XXX
Pilot figure assembly. . Post XXX
Blower assembly . . . . Post XXX
Horizontal Stabilizer . . Post XXX

I'll fill in the XXX when we get there.
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Old Sep 19, 2011, 12:29 PM
RC 4 Life
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Fort Worth, TX USA
Joined Feb 2001
4,642 Posts
the wing

This wing construction method uses no ribs, as a weight saving measure the wing has several tapered spars that give it strength and the airfoil shape we need.
The wing is built from the bottom sheeting up by using the pattern from the plans to lay out a 3mm sheet.
The spar locations are transferred from the pattern to the sheeting with a pen and straight edge .

Tip, Youmdont have to measure if you poke holes in the pattern to make the marks then flip it over to mark the other wing panel.

The spars are bonded with polyurethane glue to the bottom sheeting using weights for clamp pressure. Note. It is best to stack two sheets of 6mm while cutting the spars so each spar is identical. Also, the spars are longer than needed, this is to simplify cutting them from the 6mm sheet. they are bonded with the widest end at the wing root.
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