HiSky HCP60 Review
After a long wait I finally got a sample of HCP60 to review from the HiSky Officier Janet through the web shop Banggood that I thank both.
Since the HCP60 is a micro helicopter addressed to beginners I think it’s right to take stock of the situation.
I premise that if someone knows the V922 needs to know that HiSky is its manifacturer and after producing the V922 for the WLTOYS started hitting the market with its own brand starting to sell the same helicopter wiht its own name: the HCP100.(AKA FBL100)
Untill today looks like that the only manifacturer actively involved in producing, innovating and promoting their products are Blade Helis and HiSky. Other brands like WLTOYS just rebrand other products.
Following my own view on HiSky history.
V922/HCP100. To get this model flying you had to program a complex swash mix inside the transmitter: 3 servos at 120°. I can assure that this was a big obstacle for all the beginner and I know it because I was a begginner and even today in an Italian forum that I follow peoples are having problems with the right settings for the transmitter (+HT8). This model fixed a lot of the problems that peoples were having with the mcpx and it was a lot cheaper: a milestone in the HiSky history. I would still reccomend this model to beginner nowadays.
HCP80. I think that with this model the HiSky started showing that it wasn’t only able to clone and improve a model but could create one from scratch. I've never flown this model but from what I read in the forums this was a good product, just suffered the being new and the lack of already available spare parts of the previous HCP100 model.
HCP80v2. Here starts the HiSky innovation with the 6 axis flight mode very useful for beginner, altought with some problems in the early production units.
HCP100S. Piro compensation, two powerfull outrunner brushless motors, metal main shaft, spektrum satellite compatibility, a very good crash resistance and a very affordable price makes of this helicopter the mcpx bl killer. Another milestone in the HiSky products history. I think this helicopter is a must for everybody who likes acro or 3D flying with a micro CP helicopter outdoor!
Finally we got to the HCP60. It brings with him all the innovation of the previous models: piro compensation, 6 axis mode, metal main shaft.
- brushed 8.5mm main motor (23mm not 20: check the photo gallery. It's longer then those 8.5mm motors used in the hubsan camera/fpv quadcopter)
- coreless 6mm tail motor;
- 34,5g of weight with a 180mAh 1S 15C lipo (4,74g the lipo alone)
- linear servos
- metal main shaft
. the smallest cp in the word
- handy, solid selling box
What I liked of the HCP60?
- the looks: it looks awesome. I like the shape and the canopy color.
- the landing gear looks very flexible so I think it’s crash resistant
- the tail motor has plastic covered wire and not only enameled wires
- the tail motor cage is well done and it integrate the rotor blade fin saver
- the metal main shaft: on the HCP100S it was indestructible altought it had to stand to a raw power so I think it will be very crash resistent in the HCP60 too
- the piro compensation works great, looks even better then the piro comp in the HCP100S
- the 6 axis mode works great: as soon as you release the stick the model auto level itslef instantly, but you still have to play with the aileron stick in the take off
- the box of the helicopter is nice like the HCP100S box: it’s handy for transportation and it’s very rigid
- the tail tube is square it’s a 2mm square rod so it’s the same size of the V911, HCP80 and many other helicopter in the market(shorter then the V911 one so the V911 tail tube could be an upgrade)
- the cheap and powerfull 8.5mm main motor
What I dislike of HCP60?
- The main blade grips are the Achille’s heel! In my first attempt of doing an indoor flip they break, as the consequence of a light crash!(as I did with the HCP100S first flight I forgot to activate the 3D mode before attempting a flip) Searching in the forum I discovered that I’m not the only one complaining for this.
- I am always been still on the fact that HCP100/HCP100S were more crash resistant then the mcpx/mcpx bl or at least in the same crash resistance range but with the HCP60 the facts are different. I used for a couple of month the nano cpx learning to flip with that model and none of the plasic part break except the canopy. The blade grips on the HCP60 need to be done in a better plastic or the ball joints needs to be looser so they snap off in a crash withouth breaking: maybe usury will help?
- I noticed that the HCP60 needs a lot of pitch to be able to fly properly. Maybe this is due to the small blades, so small to be able to bear the title of the smallest cp in world? The nano cpx has a weaker main motor but has bigger blades and didn’t need an exaggerated pitch to properly fly. This has no consequences just a higher value is needed in the transmitter but maybe some efficiency is lost in this choice?
- there is no LED to show which flight mode is active if 3 axis or 6 axis
It’s remarkable the efforts of the HiSky in producing their own models and keep bringing innovation. However this HCP60 didn’t convinced myself at 100% like HCP100/HCP100S did.
It’s small → so it’s mainly an indoor model → so it’s easier to crash → so it should be able to take some serious abuse like the nano cpx does. Just a light crash is needed to stop the fun!
I would advice HiSky that adding a pair of blade grips for this model or improving their durability would be highly recommended!
If I have to compare the absolute quality level of the HCP60 with the Nano CPX I would say that the Nano CPX is slightly better in the flight caracteristics and in the crashability, but I would even add that everything come at a cost. The Nano CPX ( I can’t talk about the Nano CPS since I never flown it) had a problem of the 3in1 board to be very prone to break and the main motors too: this was the reason why I decided to sell my Nano CPX. It was too expensive to maintain.
The HCP60 like the other HiSky models is a lot cheaper so this should fill the gap and if the blade grip doesn’t breaks on every flight session (5-6 lipo for flight session) this could be an excellent indoor model.
N.B.Due to the early grouding of my sample I wasn’t able to accurately test it in flight and my spare parts (15 days trip) are on their way so currently my opinion on the HCP60 is still incomplete so I will update the review when I will be able to test it more in flight.
In the following video I did a spoken review in Italian. The content is the same of this written review so if you read my written review you'll not loose anything I say in the video.
I’m back from the flight with the HCP60!
After flying more with the HCP60 with the new spare part (blade grip) I changed my mind about this helicopter.
Actually the blade grip is the most breakable part in a crash but it’s not so fragile as I tought and it’s the only piece the breaks. Around 20-30 flights and that is the only parte I have managed to break. ( My spindle is bent but the helicopter keep flying nice).
If you saw my flight video in the Hangar I crashed on the plane and that was a hard crash in the metal at full speed without cutting the throttle HOLD before the crash = another broken blade grip. If you manage to cut the throttle one second before the crash the blade grip shouldn’t break. But in hard hits it breaks!
When you change the blade grip you need to remove two very small bearings and I would advice a tweezers to remove them.
Usually after a crash you have to check the main and tail motor that tends to slip from their cages, the landing gear that tends to came off in the crashes and if you crash and it doesn’t goes off it’s better if you check and push it all the way in to prevent its 2 pins from breaking in a following crash, just my advice based on my experience. The main gear usually stays in its place during crashes. Just 1 time every 20 crashes? needs to be pushed. Links pop off the blade grips.
After 4 minutes of flight the battery is at 3.75V. When you charge it the charger pushes 120/130mAh in the lipo.
In the first part of the review I have not spent a lot of words on the included USB charger because I usually throw that stuff but...hey it’s very useful!!! My main charger was chaging my bigger lipos so I tried the HiSky charger and it works very well. It doesn’t overcharge the lipo and the only disadvantage could be the high charging current. The max charging rate is 1A and I think the more lipo you charge in parallel the less current will go to every lipo so the better will be their life! The AC power supply is not included: I used the charger of my Samsung Galaxy Note 3 Neo.
The charger has 4 battery socket: 2 in the HCP100 style and 2 in the HCP60 style.
I said that you can fly 4 minutes but if you do flips and more power hungry staff you will get better performance in the first 3 minutes of flight. After you can hear a consistently drop in the headspeed due to the 180mAh 15C lipo which isn’t the best lipo in the word. It’s ok but would be nice to find some higher C rating battery...maybe some graphene lipo
This 1S 200mAh 35C-70C lipo could be an improvement but it has different size and different connector.
During my tests I found that the 6 axis mode doesn’t work reliably. In this flight mode the helicopter goes forward alone and you have to fight it to keep it in a stable hovering! Novices are adviced: you can’t count on the 6 axis mode.
The standard 3 axis mode works perfectly except the piro compensation while flying inverted that isn’t as reliable as in normal flight: the helicopter doesn’t stay in place.
I really get fun with the HiSky HCP60. It’s a very good sport flyer and a cool 3D capable micro helicopter indoor or outdoor if you can find a calm wind day.
I would really advice this little guy because it’s very fun and make you able to do some 3D stuff in a small indoor place.
If you are a beginner you shouldn’t relay on the 6 axis mode because you will get more probem then the standard 3axis mode.
The blade grip is a big breaking point and it’s not so easy and quick to change it. You need two + scredriver and a tweezers. Is an operation that require a desk if you don’t want to risk to lose a screw or other small parts in the rotor head. Would be cool if it would be possible to change just the broken ball instead of the whole blade grip. Maybe a ball fixed with a screw.
This is my Devo 10 with nRF chip soldered HCP60 model.ini file:
Indoor flight test (it was the second “ real” flight (with English subtitle, just activate them):
Flight in the Hangar:
Flight outside the Hangar:
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