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Old May 02, 2014, 11:21 AM
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Cutting the leading edge of the aileron. A total of 5/16” is cut off, 1/16” for the cap strip on the wing and 1/4" for the leading edge that will be added to the aileron.

To be continued ……
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Old May 03, 2014, 07:20 PM
AKA 8178
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The 1/4” balsa leading edge is glued on to the aileron and roughly shaped to the aileron surface. When the two parts are glued together it is important that the aileron leading edge fits flat with the 1/4" piece so there is no twist or warp created when the parts are joined.

To be continued ……
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Old May 04, 2014, 11:43 AM
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The 1/4” aileron leading edge sanded true with aileron surface. Next, add the hinges and then shape the leading edge.

To be continued ……
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Old May 04, 2014, 02:36 PM
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I prefer to make the control surfaces have a zero gap so they do not require to be sealed with covering, etc.

I’m using four hinges for each aileron with one located next to where the aileron control arm will be. Some images of the countersunk Dubro small hinges and fitment of the aileron.

To be continued ……
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Last edited by Jet_Flyer; May 04, 2014 at 03:11 PM.
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Old May 04, 2014, 04:41 PM
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Working on the wing tip block. The wing panel at this point is 6.75 ounces and will be a bit lighter when I finish the tip block and leading edge.

To be continued ……
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Old May 04, 2014, 04:54 PM
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Aileron leading edge bevel

Mike,
The gap looks nice and tight. I'm curious how you go about making the leading edge bevel on the aileron and what degree they are at ?

Paul
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Old May 04, 2014, 08:49 PM
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Thanks Paul.

After I had the leading edge glued on the aileron and the edge true with the aileron surface, I drew a pencil line 1/8" back from the leading edge of the aileron on the top and bottom. Then using a razor plane, I cut the top and bottom corner of the leading edge off from the line, down to the hinge point, forming a V. I kind of roughed the cut in with the razor plane and then used a long sanding block to true it.

This cut back gives the aileron 1/2"+ movement each direction, but the covering will reduce that slightly. These ailerons are 1 3/8" wide so 1/2" throw is more than I need for high rate.

The original Crusader ailerons are only 1" wide.

Mike
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Old May 04, 2014, 08:59 PM
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Thanks for the explanation. I was hoping you did it some other way as this is how I do it as well. It is a tried and true method that gives a fairly accurate bevel that is if you take care not to botch it up with the sanding bar.

That's interesting on the size of the ailerons. I'm not to familiar with the design or flight characteristics but it would seem having some extra squares on them will have some added benefit.

Paul
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Old May 05, 2014, 01:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyonenow View Post
Thanks for the explanation. I was hoping you did it some other way as this is how I do it as well. It is a tried and true method that gives a fairly accurate bevel that is if you take care not to botch it up with the sanding bar.

That's interesting on the size of the ailerons. I'm not to familiar with the design or flight characteristics but it would seem having some extra squares on them will have some added benefit.

Paul
Just the "old school" method.

I prefer to have wider ailerons with less throw as long as the hinging and servo linkage is well done. Putting a hinge right next to the aileron control arm really helps.

The way that Ralph did the ailerons on the Crusader look somewhat like what was used on the old airframes with reed radios. He also used torque rods and that would have had some impact on the aileron design.

Mike
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Old May 05, 2014, 06:12 PM
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The wing tip is on and rough shaped. Following Ralph’s design theme, the trailing edge of the tip will not be rounded off, so I slit the tip corner and inserted a piece of plywood. That way rather than getting a ding in the sharp edge, the whole corner of the tip will break off.

I did pretty well getting the plywood straight on the trailing edge, but it is off center a bit as it extends forward. Not a problem though, the main thing is the alignment of the trailing edge.

To be continued ……
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Old May 07, 2014, 11:17 AM
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What a monster wing, all 66.25” and 663 square inches. This is the widest wing span in my fleet.

To be continued ……
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Old May 07, 2014, 05:20 PM
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Much better work on the plywood tip insert for the left panel. I made the cut while the tip was still in the rough cut state and then aligned it with the basswood trailing edge as I was gluing the block to the tip.

To be continued ……
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Old May 08, 2014, 08:34 PM
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The wing panels are done for now.

Next, I need to do some planning work on the fuselage so I can work on the flying stabilizer.

To be continued ……
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Old May 16, 2014, 05:20 PM
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Old May 25, 2014, 11:57 AM
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Canada, MB, La Salle
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Crusader Airfoil

I was rereading the thread and the discussion on your airfoil choice. Bob Violet's Shrike pattern plane used a Naca 6400 series too.

Quote:
The wing is a very important part of any aircraft. Here I have chosen a 6400 series airfoil that progresses from 15% at the root to 17% at the tip. Concerning airfoils on model airplanes all I can say is that some do the job well and others just do it. This section works well and particularly good with the strip ailerons.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jet_Flyer View Post
David,

Tony plotted the first one for me when I was building my Skylark. I just gave him the basic parameters of the old hand drawn airfoil I've been using on some of my designs for the last few decides.

Using his airfoil plotting software he found a NACA 64 series that was close to my old airfoil and he modified it slightly. I used the Skylark plot for Sabre 56 root and Tony reduced the plot for the 8" wing tip. For the Crusader he scaled it up for the 12" root and I'm using the Sabre 56 8" plot for the wing tip.

Cliff Weirick's Candy design used an airfoil that looked a lot like what I'm using.

Mike
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