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Old Feb 19, 2007, 03:34 PM
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GWS ME109 Build Questions?

I have just started on my ME109 (painted version) last night and just need to ask a question or two before glue goes to foam!

First off the gear I plan on using is: eWatts 1500kv BL motor, Hitech HS-81MG micro servos and a JR RS70 synth reciever.

I wont be glassing, but may add strenght mods as per the suggestions here and other threads. I did have a look at other ME109 threads but I guess when it comes to building we all have different questions and build habbits.

OK, page 4 of the manual has 2 different types of mounting methods. You have upper and lower chamfers to mount the motor.
Which chamfer do I use for the BL motor?

BTW I am using a GWS outrunner motor mount.
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Old Feb 19, 2007, 03:50 PM
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What prop u plan on using? Thats a pretty high kv motor(I assume its an outrunner) to allow you to put anything larger then a 6 or 7" prop.

The motor I used in the Me-109 is a himax 2812 with a kv of 850
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Old Feb 19, 2007, 03:59 PM
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Well at this stage what comes in the box, as you may know there a 2 props, but a friend (who's a GWS dealer) suggested I go the 3 blade prop. Which I gather is more for looks.

Yeah the motor is an outrunner. Wrong motor for the job you think?
I use the same motor in my S&B ME163 Komet and love it. The ME109 is a lighter plane but I gather I can cruise longer without things getting hot running at full throttle all the time (which I don't with the Komet)
Hopefully it shouldn't torque out

Is there anything I need to do before I glue the fuse halves together?

eg. CF in the fuse?

Thanks
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Old Feb 19, 2007, 04:04 PM
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the mount setup is given two methods due to the way the 300 and 400 motors differ in their mounts. Use the mount that will fit your motor in line with the proper thrust angle. I believe this means using the lower mount(400 mount). Best of luck and remember to test fit before you glue.
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Old Feb 19, 2007, 04:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wedge98
the mount setup is given two methods due to the way the 300 and 400 motors differ in their mounts. Use the mount that will fit your motor in line with the proper thrust angle. I believe this means using the lower mount(400 mount). Best of luck and remember to test fit before you glue.

Thanks wedge98

Yeah I thought that as well, as it lines up.

I have still yet to use the lines for thrust angle they get you to draw on the stick? I know what they are for but how its applied on the build get me.
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Old Feb 19, 2007, 07:29 PM
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I don't think the eWatts motor will be a problem. I run an AXI 2208/20 (1860KV) in my 109 with an 8X6 prop and a 3 cell and it's really fast.

I say go for it.
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Old Feb 19, 2007, 07:38 PM
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Before you glue...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Royster

Is there anything I need to do before I glue the fuse halves together?

eg. CF in the fuse?

Thanks
You might want to test fit the battery packs you intend to use and hollow out the area accordingly before you glue. Also might want to consider making the nose area removable for easier motor access. There are a few threads with great photos on this mod.
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Old Feb 19, 2007, 07:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TopSpin
I don't think the eWatts motor will be a problem. I run an AXI 2208/20 (1860KV) in my 109 with an 8X6 prop and a 3 cell and it's really fast.

I say go for it.
Thanks TopSpin!

Yeah well I had a gut feeling about it after a couple of flights with the Komet and thought that motor would be OK and its not too wild to torque out the plane.

What brand of prop are you using John? and is it a direct drive system?
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Old Feb 19, 2007, 07:57 PM
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The HS 81 servos are over kill.You will save an ounce going with HS 55's.
The push rod guide tubes go in better before joining the fuse. I add a support midway.
The removable nose is a good way to go.
Ditto on the battery pack sizing.
Mine flies well at 14.5 oz. Tower Pro -21, 3s 1250, Park 20a ESC, GWS 8040 DD, two 55's, no landing gear. 10.9a 110 w.
The control throws are 1/4" elevator...3/8 ailerons.
The kit spinner set up is lousy for a BL.
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Old Feb 19, 2007, 08:15 PM
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Thanks Art, 55's it is!

The removable nose looks good with the small rare earth magents but I am unclear on how to go about it. I'm afraid if I use a an excto knife I'll botch the whole thing up and I know there are foam cutters but I dont want to go buying a new tool every tiime I build a plane!

Control throws... Are they static measurements of where the ailerons and elevator sit in comaprison to the fuse/wing?
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Old Feb 19, 2007, 08:21 PM
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Royster,i just got a 109 so i will be watching this thread with interest! dont no what set i will go with but i would like to have a 3 blade prop.

mark
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Old Feb 19, 2007, 08:47 PM
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I bought mine today as well... fuse is drying from the yellow paint for the nose. What threads I a nose mod?? I found this thread via the search engine... but that was it... have to search again.

ANyone found a spinner for a 450 outrunner that looks good on this plane? I hate to lose the nice looks.
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Old Feb 19, 2007, 08:48 PM
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Hey Mark

Feel free to dive in on the questions mate, I will be taking my time with this bird as I have a great plane (S&B Komet) to keep me smiling for along time.

As for the 3 blade prop, since I am going direct drive I wont worry about the spinner. At the end of the day when its up there it will look and feel great. Besides one can do wonders with a dremmel tool and some spare EPP foam
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Old Feb 19, 2007, 08:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ATIS
I bought mine today as well... fuse is drying from the yellow paint for the nose. What threads I a nose mod?? I found this thread via the search engine... but that was it... have to search again.

ANyone found a spinner for a 450 outrunner that looks good on this plane? I hate to lose the nice looks.
Hey ATIS

Check this thread out http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=438842

Feel free to dive in with questions
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Old Feb 19, 2007, 09:08 PM
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Nose job?

Ok so if I do give it a nose job is it best to do it after gluing the fuse together or after?

Also how hard would it be to change a motor (or remove it) if you dont do the nose?


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