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Old Jun 29, 2005, 10:59 AM
better than park-n-work
park-n-fly's Avatar
California
Joined Jan 2005
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The "Building My 1st Mountain Models Plane" Thread

For those of you that have been following this thread (http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=371108), you'll know that I have been in the process of deciding, buying, and ultimately building my first Mountain Models kit. From many of your suggestions and profound wisdom, I settled on the Mountain Models Dandy. I began building it this past weekend and have been able to find 4 hours so far to glue balsa to balsa. So far, so good. Both wings are done. The fuselage is about a 1/3 complete.

I plan to add build pictures and commentary in this thread in the coming weeks. To start us off toward that end, here are a few questions that came up during my building this week:
1. In the 'Notes and Hints' part of the instructions, Doug suggests that "when you break a part loose, you should lightly sand the nubs left by the gaps down." Is this really necessary for all parts? Or just the parts that will be exposed? I decided to only sand off the nubs if they were eventually going to be exposed.
2. When glueing the joints with thin CA, is it necessary to glue both sides? I decided not to...it seems that thin CA goes anywhere it can.
3. Does a 45 degree bevel mean that you sand only one side of the wood to a 45 degree angle? Or does it mean both sides? I did both sides (i.e., inverted V). Please correct me if I am wrong. I haven't yet taped/hinged the tail pieces together.
4. The instructions suggest using 3/4" strips of packing tape for the hinges in the elevator and rudder. I have some SIG Easy Hinges that I'd like to use for this purpose. Is that a good idea or a bad idea? If it is a good idea, what should the spacing be for these hinges?
5. If I plan to cover the entire model in Solite, do I wait to hinge the pieces after covering the pieces? That's what I was thinking of doing.
6. Under the 'Wing Assembly' section it states "Rock the wing so that the outer wing is against the building table. Ensure that rib 1 is parallel to the building table." I did this and, yes, rib 1 is parallel to the table. Why is this important? And, what does a builder do if their model happens to not be parallel to the table?
7. Was I/Am I supposed to glue the turbulator strips or just place them in the slots? I chose to not glue them in since the instructions were silent about this.
8. Item 11 in the 'Wing Assembly' instructions says to "...glue the vertical rib with more thin CA." To what does this refer?
9. Why does the F4 bulkhead have a sort of V shaped cut at the top of it? The plans show the top of F4 as being parallel with the bottom, but the laser cut at the top has a sort of V shape cut in it. Any idea why?
10. Tip for future building: Glue F2 & F3 before F1.

As always, any help/suggestions/tips would be greatly appreciated.

Okay, I think that's enough for now. Got to go to a meeting...
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Old Jun 29, 2005, 12:06 PM
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Joined Sep 2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by park-n-fly
1. In the 'Notes and Hints' part of the instructions, Doug suggests that "when you break a part loose, you should lightly sand the nubs left by the gaps down." Is this really necessary for all parts? Or just the parts that will be exposed? I decided to only sand off the nubs if they were eventually going to be exposed.
You should really sand all of them. They will probably show through the covering at the very least and they can screw up the alignment of the parts and create a poor fit.

Quote:
2. When glueing the joints with thin CA, is it necessary to glue both sides? I decided not to...it seems that thin CA goes anywhere it can.
Nope...just flow it in.

Quote:
3. Does a 45 degree bevel mean that you sand only one side of the wood to a 45 degree angle? Or does it mean both sides? I did both sides (i.e., inverted V). Please correct me if I am wrong. I haven't yet taped/hinged the tail pieces together.
This means you sand "one side." The side that the packing tape hinge is on is left at it's full length and the other side is about 3/16 shorter than the original length to allow for the surface to get a 45 degree deflection.

Quote:
4. The instructions suggest using 3/4" strips of packing tape for the hinges in the elevator and rudder. I have some SIG Easy Hinges that I'd like to use for this purpose. Is that a good idea or a bad idea? If it is a good idea, what should the spacing be for these hinges?
You'll be better off with the packing tape.

Quote:
5. If I plan to cover the entire model in Solite, do I wait to hinge the pieces after covering the pieces? That's what I was thinking of doing.
If you cover first, then you have to hinge second assuming you're using packing tape. I think you'd still cover first even if you use the "easy" hinges.

Quote:
6. Under the 'Wing Assembly' section it states "Rock the wing so that the outer wing is against the building table. Ensure that rib 1 is parallel to the building table." I did this and, yes, rib 1 is parallel to the table. Why is this important? And, what does a builder do if their model happens to not be parallel to the table?
It makes sure the wing is square and aligned correctly. You can fix a misalignment by twisting the wing after it's covered and then locking in the twist by re-shrinking the covering a bit.

Quote:
7. Was I/Am I supposed to glue the turbulator strips or just place them in the slots? I chose to not glue them in since the instructions were silent about this.
I have no idea what this question means.




Quote:
8. Item 11 in the 'Wing Assembly' instructions says to "...glue the vertical rib with more thin CA." To what does this refer?
Hrm...not sure. Maybe Doug or Matt can answer this one.

Quote:
9. Why does the F4 bulkhead have a sort of V shaped cut at the top of it? The plans show the top of F4 as being parallel with the bottom, but the laser cut at the top has a sort of V shape cut in it. Any idea why?
I'm pretty sure there's a good reason for this but I don't remember.


Good luck!
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Old Jun 29, 2005, 03:22 PM
better than park-n-work
park-n-fly's Avatar
California
Joined Jan 2005
564 Posts
Thanks for the suggestions/answers, Mike. You answered nearly all of my questions in one fell swoop.

It looks like this is all that's left to be answered:

4. The instructions suggest using 3/4" strips of packing tape for the hinges in the elevator and rudder. I have some SIG Easy Hinges that I'd like to use for this purpose. Is that a good idea or a bad idea? If it is a good idea, what should the spacing be for these Easy Hinges?

7. Was I/Am I supposed to glue the turbulator strips (items G & H) or just place them in the slots in the ribs? I chose to not glue them in since the instructions were silent about this.

8. Item 11 in the 'Wing Assembly' instructions says to "...glue the vertical rib with more thin CA." To what does this refer?

9. Why does the F4 bulkhead have a sort of V shaped cut at the top of it? The plans show the top of F4 as being parallel with the bottom, but the laser cut at the top has a sort of V shape cut in it. Any idea why?

Anyone else care to offer their suggestions/answers?
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Old Jun 29, 2005, 04:57 PM
better than park-n-work
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California
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Well, I looked at my bevel sand job on the elevator and rudder and think that I made a big boo boo. I sanded both sides at a 45 degree angle. Now, if I go back and sand just one side (as Mike suggested above), I'm afraid that I won't have enough balsa to work with.

What should I do? Please advise.
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Old Jun 29, 2005, 05:18 PM
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Basketcase's Avatar
St. Pete, Florida
Joined Sep 2001
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I don't think the extra bevel will hurt anything. It's better to have extra room to prevent binding than not enough room for full travel. I'd go ahead and use it like it is.

Wayne
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Old Jun 29, 2005, 05:23 PM
better than park-n-work
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California
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Thanks, Wayne. I just sent you a PM reply. I suppose I should have asked my question here, instead of sending you another PM. My apologies...
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Old Jun 29, 2005, 06:08 PM
Don't watch this...
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Northern IL
Joined Oct 2003
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#4. Clear tape is really much easier and all that is needed. Especially on your first build.

#7 Yep. Glue them in after everything else is glued up. They really strengthen the wing.

#8 Soak it in there man. Make sure every nook and cranny are glued. top and bottom. little vertical seems too. That wing spar is the most stressed part of the whole plane...make sure the glue makes those pieces become one piece.


#9 You have the V notch?! You're screwed. Throw it away and start over.





jk

Don't remember what that is. Have a pic?


Just got some pics of mine. It was my first build too. Then put this GT wing on it. Then FlashBack, then brushless in the FB, then...totally addicted. Come to think about it...you ARE screwed

Coo
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Old Jun 29, 2005, 06:16 PM
Don't watch this...
CooHead's Avatar
Northern IL
Joined Oct 2003
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Wow.

Those pics show how beat my 350C C 2S1500 DSGT are (FB too...it started all one color )

p-n-f, you'll be happy to know that after hundreds of flights (and a dozen crashes) it still flys great.
Easy to fix too.
Other than the LG. After the 2-3-4th time, I took em off for good. That green tape is covering a big hole in the bottom of the fuse.

Advice.
Maybe add a couple little squares/sticks of balsa around where the LG sandwich mounts...some more CA too. Strengthen it up some so it lasts longer...

Coo
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Old Jun 29, 2005, 06:27 PM
better than park-n-work
park-n-fly's Avatar
California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CooHead
#9 You have the V notch?! You're screwed. Throw it away and start over.


jk
Coo
You had me worried there for a second, Coo. I was thinking, "aw man, I gotta start over!" Thanks for just joking.

I'm hopeful that Doug and/or Matthew have a chance to weigh in here with some advise on the dreaded unknown "v notch". I'm sure it's not a mistake, but I'm not certain of what it is...

P.S. Your covering on your Dandy is one of my favorites. In fact, I've got it in my "Dandy Covering Ideas" file (I saw it originally in the MM appreciation thread). I especially like the checkerboard pattern. Not too much...just enough.
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Old Jun 29, 2005, 07:06 PM
Checking the wind
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Aubry Township, Kansas South of KC.
Joined Jan 2002
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My biggest tip for you is.....don't get too wrapped up in every little detail. You could drive yourself nuts. You are going to make a few mistakes. (we all do) but in the end, if it looks somewhat like an airplane, it is probably going to fly well. If you REALLY want it to fly well, wreck it and rebuild it. Mine always seem to improve after a smashup.

This is just your first build. Relax and enjoy yourself. Take your time.

Mike
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Old Jun 30, 2005, 11:50 AM
better than park-n-work
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California
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Mike, if you can believe this...I am very relaxed about this build. I just tend to think if you build it right the first time, the second time you won't screw it up...and maybe, in the process, I can help others avoid my newbie-type mistakes. Your suggestion to keep it real and keep it fun is a good one. It's good to know that a smashup doesn't mean start over.
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Old Jun 30, 2005, 11:53 AM
better than park-n-work
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California
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An update...and the Double Bevel Oops

Well, I got a lot of building in last night. So far, it's taken me 6 hours and I've completed both wings, the fuselage and the motor mount. It took me a bunch of time (1 1/2 hours) to get the motor mount "stick" to fit in the Dandy and to also fit the mount that Herleman gave me for my Astro 010. Oh well, I think it will now work.

Here are some pictures of the dreaded "double bevel" that I unfortunately created.
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Old Jun 30, 2005, 12:03 PM
better than park-n-work
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Here are a few others photos from the build:

The requisite parts and plans shot:


The wings went together well.

10 points if you can you find the piece of latex glove that is still stuck on the Dandy?
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Old Jun 30, 2005, 12:06 PM
better than park-n-work
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A few more to look at...





Notice that I didn't put in the z-bends. I am going to use Mini EZ connectors at the servos.
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Old Jun 30, 2005, 01:08 PM
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Northern SF Bay Area
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Back when I was building control line models, we ALWAYS double beveled flaps and elevators. Hinges were a bit more complex though than a single bit of tape. To use a single tape, try using two pieces of scrap balsa, of the same thickness, double bevel one of them, and try different taping strategies. I think you will want to have the beveled piece fully deflected away from the side you tape to allow full movement in both directions.
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