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Old Jul 15, 2014, 12:00 PM
"Some do, some don't"
old_coastie's Avatar
United States, MI, Grand Rapids
Joined Jul 2013
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Foam Tac Success Story

Pushed plane way outside of flight envelope, (Hacker motor for you, you ask, it delivers, careful what you ask for...)

Anyway, from bad to good, and all possible due to Foam Tac...

Pics tell the story, and yes have flown it bunches since repair... Life is good again...

Mark R.
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Old Jul 15, 2014, 12:16 PM
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Grand Rapids, MI
Joined Jun 2005
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Not foam-tac related, but is Beacon related...Just a FYI.

I used the BEacon Quick Grip to mount my new canopy on, and it dissolved the paint lickety split. The edge of this canopy came pre-painted...so not sure if it'll eat all paints. I ended up taping everything off and spray painting on top to hide the uglyness.
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Old Sep 18, 2014, 11:55 AM
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United States, FL, Land O' Lakes
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I have used Foam-Tac on some models I have stopped using it. I love how it works and the bond it produces but the current product is too thick, even when new, and I feel I end up using more than necessary. I would like to apply a thin coat to foam fuselage halves, parts etc…and use it as a contact cement. Right now its gets globby and skins up too fast. Can you recommend a solvent that works to thin Foam-Tac? I need it to flow/spread better. I know this has been asked over and over but haven't found a straight answer.
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Old Sep 18, 2014, 02:36 PM
Punch it, Chewie.
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It is water based, you could try adding some water to it.
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Old Sep 18, 2014, 02:47 PM
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United States, FL, Land O' Lakes
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RPM314 View Post
It is water based, you could try adding some water to it.
C'mon man, I know its not water based. You gotta try harder that that!
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Old Sep 18, 2014, 02:52 PM
Punch it, Chewie.
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?!?!

It isn't? And here I was thinking I had it all figured out.
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Old Sep 18, 2014, 03:34 PM
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United States, NY, Kings
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From what I've heard from Beacon at a seminar at the NEAT fair last week, there is no solvent available to thin the glue. That said, the latest batches are quite a bit more thin the the previous ones. Another recommended method was to heat up a bottle in hot water before use.
But the real question is - why do you really need to thin it? It is good as is. Only old open bottles that I did not bother to store properly for a long time (the recommended method is to put a piece of aluminum foil under the cap) become thick enough for the glue to take a minute to come down to the nozzle. But even then, the glue is quite usable.
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Old Sep 18, 2014, 03:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SergeyK View Post
From what I've heard from Beacon at a seminar at the NEAT fair last week, there is no solvent available to thin the glue. That said, the latest batches are quite a bit more thin the the previous ones. Another recommended method was to heat up a bottle in hot water before use.
But the real question is - why do you really need to thin it? It is good as is. Only old open bottles that I did not bother to store properly for a long time (the recommended method is to put a piece of aluminum foil under the cap) become thick enough for the glue to take a minute to come down to the nozzle. But even then, the glue is quite usable.
It may be that I am too OCD about gluing. I got a new bottle of Foam-Tac from Aloft Hobbies a few days before joining the halves of my TwinStar 2. When applying the glue I tried to run a thin bead over the contact areas of one side of the fuselage and go back and quickly spread it thin with a popsicle stick. I was working fast and even so the glue was skinning and drying so it did not spread out well. I had to apply more to get good coverage. On the other half I tried applying and spreading smaller sections. This was a little better but I still feel I used more glue than I would have if the Foam-Tac was more of a maple syrup consistency rather than corn syrup. It would be nice if I could brush it on with an epoxy brush.
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Old Sep 18, 2014, 04:04 PM
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Don't bother spreading the glue. Just use the recommended method: put the glue on one side, touch and separate parts several times until the glue starts stringing, wait a few seconds, make the final connection. Done.
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Old Sep 19, 2014, 06:06 AM
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Solvent

I have successfully used "Bestine Rubber Cement Solvent and Thinner." It takes a while to completely dissolve into the existing thickened cement, but if you leave it overnight with the bottle on its side, the dissolution will take place and you will have a thinner product to work with.

Gary
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Old Sep 19, 2014, 06:13 AM
"Some do, some don't"
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United States, MI, Grand Rapids
Joined Jul 2013
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Wondering how long the glue you used had been on the shelf. Mine doesn't usually get like you described until it has been opened and closed and opened and closed anyway you get the idea.. Totally agree with SergeyK, apply some dabs or line to one side (only need to do both sides if repairing really rough surfaces like torn EPP or completely ripped off hard foam) smear the two sides together to distribute glue pull apart and repeat. When you start to see filaments of glue you know you are getting close. Stick back together for final time, make your fine tuning of alignment and maintain pressure for awhile and there you have it..

Mark R.

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Old Sep 19, 2014, 07:39 AM
You're killin' me Smalls
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Yep. Go for simple rather than the OCD coating on it, I learned the hard way myself, attaching the tough clear plastic report covers to the bottom of my Polaris. I was trying so hard for complete coverage and keeping thin, I ended up using way too much and etching the foam underneath. Trying for a full coating isn't really the way to go.

Still flies well, but lesson learned.
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Old Sep 19, 2014, 07:54 AM
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United States, MA, Southbridge
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Getting a skin on it isn't a problem since it IS a contact cement. I always applyy to one half and smoosh and separate to spread it and then put it together when it starts getting stringy. Getting thick is only a problem in getting it out of the bottle. The nice thing about thick is it stays put and doesn't drip.

It was good to see Eric up and about at NEAT
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Old Sep 19, 2014, 08:47 AM
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Still think a thin formulation would be cool for laminating, etc...

Did a little research. Bestine solvent is Hexane. The MSDS for Foam-Tac says its solvent is Cyclohexane. They are similar molecules, both are types of the alkane family of organic solvents, so it makes sense that Bestine can serve as a solvent although Hexane does evaporate faster. Cyclohexane and Hexane will melt some foams like EPS and EPO so if used as a thinner excessively it could damage the mating surfaces, soften the surrounding foam, etc...

From a chemistry standpoint other alkanes with higher boiling point could be used as thinners. Toluene and Xylene should work but would take longer to dissolve into the Foam-Tac and cause it to take longer to dry before parts could stick together. Again, excessive thinning could damage the mating surfaces, soften the surrounding foam, etc...

I have some Xylene that I use to thin Goop and I will try it in my older bottle of Foam-Tac.
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Last edited by AdrianM; Sep 19, 2014 at 09:34 AM.
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Old Sep 19, 2014, 11:33 AM
"Some do, some don't"
old_coastie's Avatar
United States, MI, Grand Rapids
Joined Jul 2013
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Correct technical term

Quote:
Originally Posted by coreman View Post
Getting a skin on it isn't a problem since it IS a contact cement. I always applyy to one half and smoosh and separate to spread it and then put it together when it starts getting stringy. Getting thick is only a problem in getting it out of the bottle. The nice thing about thick is it stays put and doesn't drip.

It was good to see Eric up and about at NEAT
There goes Coreman using those really technical terms....

Smoosh!!!!! LOL

Mark R.
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