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Old Mar 06, 2014, 11:30 PM
Ah, so its THIS again. . .
Ronin055's Avatar
United States, NV, Sparks
Joined Jan 2013
327 Posts
Ya and it was even better that it was free! LoL, But we haven't found the receiver yet. Im confident that we will though.

Originally I thought I would use it for the sub. But I rethought that one. The radio that I have for the sub is completely programmable. So I was able to set the rates last night so that on the dive and surface controls, I was able to get 120% on the servo for dive. And only 62% for surfacing. The end result was that it dives like before, but barely releases gas to surface. So no more cork like maneuvers.

Last night I filled the hole in the nose with my favorite JB weld concoction. Then this morning it got a light wet sand and a shot of primer then flat black.

This evening I went over the details on the lower hull with a shadowing paint that I use on miniatures. Its kind of a dusty brown wash. Once in place it gave the shadow effect to the etched details. Then I got the first coats of clear on the sub. This means that I will be able to get the numbers on the sail and hull tomorrow evening if I have time. Then some more clear over that and I may be pretty well finished with this little project.

However time will tell. Ive still got to get her in deep water and really drive the sub.

And I found a plastic tub at Lowes that I think I can get her in to set the submerged trim. Ill probably pick that up tomorrow or Saturday.
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Old Mar 07, 2014, 05:06 AM
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Denver
Joined Feb 2005
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After you get it running there is only one place to show it off...... The SubRegatta this coming July 18,19,20 at keystone resort in keystone colorado ))
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Old Mar 07, 2014, 10:22 AM
Ah, so its THIS again. . .
Ronin055's Avatar
United States, NV, Sparks
Joined Jan 2013
327 Posts
LoL well thank you for the invite !

But Colorado is a long way from Reno. And owning my own business is more like slave labor. LoL. So at this point Im trying to get three days off to ride up to Oregon and back. And I really dont think that is going to happen. Purely for financial concerns. But we will see.

And if I get any free time beyond that, then YES !! I will come to the regatta.


UPDATE: all is well on the sub this morning. The clear went down with no hitches last night.

So all ahead 2/3. Tonight we put on some numbers. Mainly my goal is the Numbers on the sail. Im comfortable with that. If that goes well, I may shoot for the draft numbers as well. But Im not going to get my hopes up. one thing at a time ya know.

OH, and here are some pics of how that detailing on the lower hull worked out for me.

Edit: I didnt want to spam post. But I needed to ask. What ESC are you guys using? I have a traxxas XL1. If I turn the sub on without the transmitter turned on it sits there. If I turn on the transmitter and then turn it off it sits there. but if I exersize the motor at all, and turn off the controller, the ESC kicks in and runs the sub in reverse. It may be a condition of the Reciever and controller. I tried to set the fail-safe, but Im having trouble because it wants to be an airplane controller and failsafe at 15%. Im trying to get it to failsafe at 50% but Im also wondering if its just the ESC. But I guess talking it out like that, it makes me feel that it may be the TX/RX system. hmmm, grr.
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Old Mar 07, 2014, 01:35 PM
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tchalfant's Avatar
United States, NV, Las Vegas
Joined Aug 2011
429 Posts
There are two that I have used, one is the Mtroniks and the other is Microgyros.

I have had no issues with either one.


http://www.mtroniks.net/products.asp...ontrollers.htm

http://www.microgyros.com
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Old Mar 07, 2014, 02:04 PM
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California Desert... 7 miles from nearest town
Joined Jan 2010
367 Posts
Fail Safe.

Sorry to say I am not following what it is you want to happen during fail safe.
-----------------------
It sounds like your want the main motor to fail safe at 50% forward.

My questions would be...
What if boat fails during a dive and the motor continues the dive?

What if the boat runs in to weeds under water when the fail takes place? Continues pushing farther in to weeds. (know of a boat that drove in to a shopping cart that was in the pond. Only way out was reverse. Actually some one had to go for a swim.)
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I never considered using the main motor for fail safe. I like having the ballast tank emptied on fail safe. I want the boat to try and come back up if things fail. If the boat is under water when the failure takes place, I don't want it going on on it's own getting father away. When it fails I may have a last location off failure and a place to start looking. But if the motor continues to run, It could end up anywhere, not where I last knew it's location.

I can under stand in an airplane, you want to keep forward motions while trying to regain control.
-------
I'm going to step back and see what is offered up as a solution.
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Old Mar 07, 2014, 03:01 PM
Ah, so its THIS again. . .
Ronin055's Avatar
United States, NV, Sparks
Joined Jan 2013
327 Posts
No a fail safe setting of 50% on a stick that normally considered 0-100 would make the motor neutral.

Everything you suggested would be normal and what I need otherwise.

What I want is for the sub to stop, and surface. Worse case scenario, I want it to blow ballast. But currently everytime I stop the motor, and turn off the transmitter to check if the sub safe works, the sub takes off across my tub. and thats a short trip. but can you imagine at a lake half a mile wide? all of a sudden youve got a torpedo. Well I guess all a-stern torpedo. But still, LoL.thats like 85% reverse.

I finally found some info on the XL-1 today. It was burried in a transmitter manual. So I think I can adjust it all out. And after re-reading my transmitter manual and receiver manual today, I think I may be able to set the failsafe on my equipment.

However barring that, Ill be looking for some new gear.
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Old Mar 07, 2014, 11:07 PM
Ah, so its THIS again. . .
Ronin055's Avatar
United States, NV, Sparks
Joined Jan 2013
327 Posts
OK. I got to the dry transfers tonight.

Geeze was that ever nerve wracking. And I just dont think they turned out great. Their fine. But not in my opinion great.

Here are the results.
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Old Mar 08, 2014, 12:30 AM
Ah, so its THIS again. . .
Ronin055's Avatar
United States, NV, Sparks
Joined Jan 2013
327 Posts
Another hurdle passed.

I finally got the fail-safe for the main drive, into a neutral position on loss of signal.

The manual, I guess is supposed to be simple. However for some reason, it was very confusing. But after a near brain hemorrage, I had a moment of mental clarity and voila!! Understanding burst forth in my little brain.

I hate this manual.
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Old Mar 09, 2014, 01:31 PM
Ah, so its THIS again. . .
Ronin055's Avatar
United States, NV, Sparks
Joined Jan 2013
327 Posts
Components gathered. Clear coat is set, foam is present, propel is ready, Tub is acquired, controls are adjusted. Stand is retro-fitted. It had blue shag carpet for the cushion. Now it has weather stripping covered in felt. So now I assemble sub. Go to church. Come home and attempt to trim the beast at her submerged lines.

Assembly to begin. Videos to follow.

For some reason, Marine Bear was present for this occasion. That must be a good omen.
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Old Mar 09, 2014, 08:19 PM
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Wichita, Kansas
Joined Jan 2004
276 Posts
Why did you put a failsafe on the drive motor? On loss of signal with an esc, it should automatically shut down and go to neutral. A failsafe should be set to blow the ballast. If the esc is still functioning and gives a command forward, then get a new esc. That is not normal from my experience.
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Old Mar 09, 2014, 08:48 PM
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California Desert... 7 miles from nearest town
Joined Jan 2010
367 Posts
Matt,
I was confused a few posts back.
If I understand what is going on, the ESC was set to fail with 15% power, on loss of signal.

This is something the airplanes use to keep them flying forward while waiting for the signal to reconnect. Airplanes really do not want an engine out condition.

It appears that after going through the transmitter and receiver manuals, the fail safe mode for the ESC was reset to stop the motor.

At least that's what I got out of the post above.

And we all know by now that I can get radio electronics wrong. Obvious by the number of off/on switches I tend to use for fail safe condition.
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Old Mar 09, 2014, 08:59 PM
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Wichita, Kansas
Joined Jan 2004
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Ahhh. That makes sense
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Old Mar 09, 2014, 10:39 PM
Ah, so its THIS again. . .
Ronin055's Avatar
United States, NV, Sparks
Joined Jan 2013
327 Posts
Yes that is correct. I have set the receiver to go to neutral motor on loss of signal.

Hey Thor Design. I was re-reading the thread and I saw a post of yours that totally got missed by me at the end of a page. You indicated that I needed etched ballast covers. And you sir are correct. Do you know where I might acquire such a fitting?

UPDATE: Trimming the sub. Interesting thing, when I put the foam inside the sub, it acts a little different than it did outside the sub. Probably because I was using one rubber-band aft. And I stacked the foam under that rubber-band and adjusted to buoyancy. Then put the pieces side by side inside the hull. Pfft!! ya that didn't work real well. so then the butt sank again and the nose lofted. Sooooo more foam going in and getting tested. Then I gotta wait for the glue to dry again till I can see whats what submerged. LoL, to much fun.
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Old Mar 09, 2014, 11:38 PM
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California Desert... 7 miles from nearest town
Joined Jan 2010
367 Posts
I'm guessing here....... your foam during trimming is above the waterline.
---------
When trimming the boat the foam you put under the rubber bands will need to be below the waterline.

If above the waterline they are floatation when under water but they are added weight above the waterline + lost floatation.
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Old Mar 09, 2014, 11:42 PM
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California Desert... 7 miles from nearest town
Joined Jan 2010
367 Posts
Additional note:

Add the foam to the outside of the boat held in place with your rubber bands.

Place foam blocks on both sides of the boat equally and the top edge below the waterline.

Same with added ballast weight. Using rubber bands you add the weight outside the hull at the keel. This allows you to move the ballast weights and foam forward and aft as needed to get your boat to trim level when submerged.

Once you have the weight and foam in the right places and correct level, then you can put it in the boat at those locations.
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