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Old Dec 26, 2014, 04:17 PM
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United States, MD, Elkton
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Filler coats.

Another thing on the percentage of thinner in the 'early coats" I usually start with half and half..Now some guys contradict me on whether that's 50% thinner, and 50% clear dope. That's how I see it.......

After 3-4 coats on the frame work dries for a week or so, the fabric is laid in place, then the thinned dope is brushed right through it, and rubbed down with a finger. The "excess" thinner softens the previously applied dope, and welds the fabric in place.

After all the covering is on, and secure, shrink it with your iron. Start doping with the thinned Nitrate, and be very careful not to "flow" it on.If too much dope runs through the fabric, it will 'puddle' , hanging off the inside of the covering, and cause a 'scar'.
Do several more coats over the area the covering touches, to fill the pinholes that may develop. The sanding sealer can be purchased, or made at home with lots of talcum powder mixed in with the dope.

The covering should look 'finished' before a couple of coats of the color go on.

This is a lot more work than modern covering materials, but some of us won't let go of the past....ME !...I enjoy doing it this way, and that's all there is to it...
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Old Dec 26, 2014, 04:27 PM
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United States, AZ, Litchfield Park
Joined Jul 2002
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Hey Earl,

I am putting Sig Koverall on a wing for a buddy of mine and I'm wondering about finishing with Nitrate or Butyrate. I see above that you are using Nitrate, at least initially. Are you using only Nitrate or do you finish up with Butyrate? Any particular reason for using one, the other, or both? This particular model is electric powered so no fuel proofing is required. The dope is simply to fill the weave and prepare the covering to receive paint. It is also a relatively large model with a substantial structure so warping is not a concern. Thanks for any input you can offer and my apologies if this has been covered elsewhere in the thread already.
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Old Dec 26, 2014, 05:36 PM
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You can put Butyrate over Nitrate, but not go the other way. I use low shrink Nitrate Clear all the way through until ready for Color.
From there, the base coat of Silver, (or primer) is used for whatever finish material is used....- I've gone Butyrate Dope with a plasticizer,,Stits Finishes, or Automotive paints, including Rustoleum.

Lacquer primers should not be used over any open frame work, as "Spider Web" cracking can result.Those primers over sheeted structures result in very fine surfaces, resembling metal.

Maybe someone more 'Expert' than myself can chime in, and prevent mistakes from all of us.
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Old Jan 04, 2015, 01:59 PM
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I'm no expert, but found a very interesting blog on the uses of various dopes and Stits products that I've been following at www.rcmodel.com.

Smaller models
http://rcmodel.com/2011/07/building-...-2t-1a-kit-20/
http://rcmodel.com/2012/05/the-retur...igerkitten-11/

Larger Models
http://rcmodel.com/2013/07/building-...inson-sr-9-21/

Enjoying this Monocoupe build!
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Old Jan 04, 2015, 03:22 PM
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Welcome, wmcnabb- we'll have more enjoyment soon, I hope..Got all those Holidays behind us, and they're promising 20 degree weather for a long span, now.

I picked up on the notation he made about the Stits being 'non-directional'. It hadn't dawned on me, about that, and I've done a few models with it...Now that he pointed it out, I realize that it does handle better....it doesn't "sag more" between the ribs as the others would if you installed it improperly.
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Old Jan 05, 2015, 06:50 AM
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A special 'shout-out' to wmcnabb for that sales brochure.. I saw a Full Scale 'Coupe years ago, and it had an unusual fabric fairing around the rudder horn.Although you have to pay particular attention to it, it's shown in one of the photos (#2,page 15) he brought to our attention..
The 'coupe also has an unusual fuselage to fin fairing, different from most other light craft of the era.
Those photos are unusually clear and sharp.
"Outside " help makes it easier to build a good representation of the Full Scale Aircraft.
Thanks, again, sir.
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Old Jan 06, 2015, 07:47 AM
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I'm happy to know the brochure was useful for your modeling efforts!

I'll be interested to see how the fairing works out!!

Wade
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