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Old Dec 02, 2013, 09:37 PM
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Montreal, Canada
Joined Mar 2008
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Well, you know what they say: A picture is worth a thousand words...

I better get snappin' and quit yackin'!

David
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Old Dec 03, 2013, 12:19 AM
AMA 13456 NSRCA 4513
Jeff Worsham's Avatar
Rio Rancho, NM
Joined Nov 2007
221 Posts
Will sure be interested to see what Kevin adds but that which you (David) wrote above answered all the questions I had been struggling with ever since hearing about this plan to use 1/32 sheet. Man I was freakin' and thinkin' 1/16 was going to be just fine!! Thanks for explaining the whole process. Definitely was planning to lay in some carbon tow. And you don't know how relieved I am to find out the sheeting joints won't be a sanding issue.
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Old Dec 03, 2013, 12:49 PM
Kevin S. Gribben
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Joined Mar 2011
347 Posts
A couple of details,
I have used hot water but I seem to get a better "cast" from ammonia.
Walmart had it for like $2
After wetting the leading edge piece put it back in shuck to dry overnight. Once removed mine completely held its shape accurately.

I agreed with David just tape the skins together no glue. Then I flip it over and spray a pass of Butyrate Dope, quick final sand with 320. I have heard of some guys using hair spray ect. This keeps the epoxy up on top. On the epoxy, thinner is better. I like the MGS Blue used by the Rutan brothers we sell it in small single use packets, PM for details. I have the dope in spray cans as well.

Mix up a small batch and wipe the inside of your leading edge precast skin, with the skin doped you will surprised at how little you need.
Back in the shuck weight it down ect.
I put the whole mess in trash bag and draw a vacume. Even if you just hook up a shop vac and draw a vacume on it for 20 minutes it will help immensely.
Testing shows that vacume pulls the epoxy into the first 1/16" of the foam and really helps the bond.
After the leading edge cap dries lay the rest on behind it same way and your off to the races.
1/32 is thin. I agree with the tow. On the chipmunk David has it right it should go under. Remember it will meed more on the bottom than the top due to the wheel / well retract cut out. My deception thread has some photos as well.
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Old Dec 03, 2013, 05:22 PM
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Montreal, Canada
Joined Mar 2008
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Agree with Kevin - naturally.

Ammonia will make it go faster and is more effective. It just stinks. To split the difference I often use windex which is dilute ammonia with a nice scent, or so they say.

The partial sealing of the skin is a good idea. If the epoxy makes it into the core 1/16" under pressure, I sure hope it doesn't do that on the skins...

Once cured, those skinny skins will be cracka lakin'!

David
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Last edited by doxilia; Dec 05, 2013 at 12:30 AM.
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Old Jun 02, 2014, 10:03 PM
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Montreal, Canada
Joined Mar 2008
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Has anyone gotten any traction on their Chippy's yet?

I was just wondering as I'm shipping out three more kits very soon and would love to see a skinned stab, fin or wing... Maybe a former or two in between fuse sides!

David
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Old Jun 02, 2014, 11:16 PM
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Fatherof4's Avatar
Rancho Santa Margarita, CA
Joined May 2006
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I am hoping to start after the summer.
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