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Old Jun 17, 2012, 10:19 PM
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Build Log
V120D05 CS-PRO - Upgrades, repairs, Modifications

Ok, I am starting this build log to start getting some of my D05 info and pictures together. Since i didn't take that many pics when i did the initial upgrade to the D02S parts I will touch on it some here where I had to change out the heli's air frame because i broke the RX shelf off. There will also be a modification to strengthen the air frame as well as some other tips and tricks.

Click here to Subscribe to this build log!


Topics covered in this log so far:

V120D05CS-PRO Air Frame Durability upgrade.

V120D05CS-PRO Landing Skid Upgrade

V120D05 Extreme tail fin set

V120D05CS-XTR Extreme Spin 16,300kv Motor Upgrade

0.032 Aluminum Stock/wire Sheer pin

Sheer Pin - 22 AWG Copper solid conductor

V120D05CS08-Pro - HP08-S 16,500kv Motor Upgrade

Latest Flight videos - 01-28-13

Upgrade to 3S (Basic version with Xtreme skids)

V120 3S battery mounting with Xtreme skids

D05 Custom upgrade (silver) tail boom

Crash repair - Main gear hub & front RX tray frame

V120 CF upgrade airframe add on

M120D01 Skids - Weight Shaving

Mounting GY280 and Talon 15 in V120 upgrade frame

3S CF Battery Tray Mod for V120 upgrade frame

Lynx fiberglass Goblin style canopy on V120

Xtreme 130X Canopy post mod for V120 series

V120D05 Main rotor and shaft upgrade to D02S parts:


These are all parts off of the v120d02S model heli used for this upgrade to CS-PRO.

HM-V120D02S-Z-26: Receiver (RX2622V - Compatible with WK Series Radio )

However there is of course the 2622V-D and the newest version just released with the 6 axis gyro to consider as options.

HM-V120D02S-Z-01: Main Rotor Blades
HM-V120D02S-Z-02: Blade Grips
HM-V120D02S-Z-03: Rotor Head
HM-V120D02S-Z-04: Main Shaft
HM-V120D02S-Z-05: Feathering Shaft
HM-V120D02S-Z-06: Ball Linkage Set
HM-V120D02S-Z-19: Bearing set for Walkera V120D02S
HM-V120D02S-Z-20: Main Shaft Bearing
3 Ball joints from the v120D02S to replace the ones on your current servos. (you can get them of the D02S tail rocker arms)

Below are pictures with comments on the frame swap and some other info about the upgrades and modifications.
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Old Jun 18, 2012, 12:20 AM
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V120D05CS-PRO Air Frame Durability upgrade.

V120D05CS-PRO Air Frame Durability upgrade.

I crashed the V120D02S so many times without breaking the frame. But the D05 RX circuit board shook loose inside the RX jacket. As a result it did a launch into the air and then a sudden nose dive and totally broke the RX shelf off. So i wanted to strengthen the RX shelf and maybe add a few grams to the frame. But not too much weight. So I decided to add some CF and fill the holes in the RX shelf closest to the frame to add support to where the shelf is connected to the frame.

Here is what i did:
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Old Jun 18, 2012, 12:45 AM
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V120D05CS-PRO Landing Skid Upgrade

V120D05CS-PRO Landing Skid Upgrade

I was sick of replacing the D05 stock skids even after hot glue and everything they end up just being in pieces eventually. So the beauty of this upgraded helicopter is the "pro" motor has a shorter pinion and does not rub on the Extreme landing skid's CF plate. The rear of the CF plate and mount to come fairly close to the main gear though, but so far has not been an issue. The Extreme skid's side plates guard the main gear rather well when the heli crashes. At least from things other than the main gear anyway. The Extreme skid's repair parts are cheaper and they are more durable anyway. The only issue i can see is if you do not bore your hole straight in the D05 main gear for the CS upgrade it will wobble. If it wobbles it might hit the top of the CF plate and screws.

Here is some pics:V120D05CS-PRO Landing Skid Upgrade
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Old Jun 18, 2012, 01:02 AM
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My V120D05CS-Pro

Here are some pictures of the finished helicopter from different points in it's development. Some from after the upgrade, some from after the frame swap.
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Old Jun 18, 2012, 01:09 AM
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Final Flight Testing videos. (x3)

V120D05CS-PRO - 3D Flight Test #1 After replacing frame. (5 min 45 sec)



V120D05CS-PRO - 3D Flight Test #2 After replacing frame. (6 min 47 sec)



V120D05CS-PRO - 3D Flight Test #3 - 3d viability conclusion (4 min 54 sec)



Newer flights, and better skills by myself (hopefully resulting in better flights/viewing) are posted on my youtube channel. Subscribe for updates:
http://www.youtube.com/user/IntegrityRC?feature=mhee
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Old Jun 18, 2012, 04:56 PM
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awesome job integrity! what blades are you using? the solo pro 3d ones?
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Old Jun 18, 2012, 05:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon.M.Barter View Post
awesome job integrity! what blades are you using? the solo pro 3d ones?
No, i am using the 140mm Carbon fiber blades. The solo pro 180 blades would also be fine i think. Possibly even better because they are lighter. I'm going to put in a few more flights with these blades and then try the D02S blades again and see how the helicopter flies. I have a small suspicion, POSSIBLY, the longer and wider 140mm blades might be inducing too much resistance when using the collective stick. It might actually fly better with the thinner blades because of less resistance when increasing pitch. It's just a theory right now, but i have to be very gentle to fly 3d with this compared to the v120d02S.

Edit:
I have been flying the stock D02S blades the most and prefer them the most. Next will be the 130X blades probably. Longer blades that are at least as narrow as the stock blades are what i'm really looking for.
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Old Jul 01, 2012, 11:19 PM
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Experimental Durability Mod for D05CS Main Gear and Gear Cap

Experimental Durability Mod for D05 Custom "S" Main Gear and Gear Cap

Okay. So the problem with the main gear is that after boring the shaft hole bigger the bottom hub becomes much weaker. I usually explode the bottom gear hub, where the mounting pin is, WAY before i strip the gear off lately. I also pressed my motor pinion tighter against the main gear. This might have something to do with why it does not slip out and grind as easy anymore. But i am only speculating. In reality this is probably putting more strain on things like the gear's pin.

So since my current main gear has a wobble in it anyway from a crooked bore drilled though it. I decided to go ahead and experiment with adding some sold material too the main gear. When i removed the old gear I decided to inspect under the gear cap as well. BIG SURPRISE! (sarcastic) The nipple on the gear cap had been worn down again in just the few short flights between my frame swap/rebuild and now. Maybe 20 total. I cleaned the aluminum shavings i found stuck under there and came up with a little mod that should help with this wear on the gear cap. But i'll get back to that in a minute. For now lets get back to the main gear's hub.

This was my first attempt at adding solid material to the main gear. I was a bit worried about causing balance issues and making the gear wobble. Since this gear already wobbled pretty badly because i rushed drilling it out it was the perfect candidate for this little experiment. I basically covered the gear hub in CA once it was installed. Then dumped baking soda on it. The CA turns the baking soda into a solid hard plastic like material. It's not pretty and i'm sure it adds a gram or 2 to the over all weight of the gear. I'm also sure the weight is not balanced symmetrically. But since it's so close to the center i don't think it will be an issue. I sure am glad i only have to look at it when i put a new pack on, lol. I might color it in with sharpie marker or something. (pictures below)

Okay now for the Gear cap mod. The problem is that pitch pumps or any binding with the swash add pressure to the now weakened metal gear cap. Between the spinning motion and these squeezing forces being applied by the swash. It does not take long for the gear cap's nipple to sheer off. Once it does there will then be play on the main shaft which could cause response issues in pitch changes and making pitch pumps slower, things like that. I was using travadj to limit my swash from binding at the extremes. I don't think i like that method any longer. I did have some binding on the swash at the top with the rotor head when the cyclic was moved. Plus using travadj seemed to maybe slow the servos down too? Maybe not, but I now use the pitch curve to limit binding at the extremes. That seems to work better for me. So on the 2801 i now use a pitch curve to limit binding. Something more like (approx) 50 - 50 - 50 - 70 - 90 in normal and in Stunt mode i use something like 15 - 35 - 50 - 65 - 90 or 15 - 30 - 55 - 70 - 90. The point is the first and last pitch points on the 2801-pro get limited to limit swash movement at those extremes. Binding just wears everything out, not just your gear cap. Servos and other parts included.

So the solution I came up with to a longer life on the gear cap is quite simple. Go to a hardware store or bolt supply store would be better. Get some tiny washers that have about the same inner diameter as the nipple on the gear cap. I unfortunately did not measure mine but rather just took it with me on my search and physically compared it with the washers. I just happened to have some in my workshop that were perfect! They are approx. 1mm thick and almost the same size as the bearing. The ID matched the nipple just great. I will report back here later in an edit how this works out in the long run.


See pictures for more details.
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Old Jul 07, 2012, 12:09 PM
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V1 durability mod gears.

V1 durability mod gears.

The prototype durability mod on the main gear worked out really well!! I was able to crash and fly and crash 6 times. Even after 6 crashes and having the main gear stripped in multiple places, some completely flat. The D05CS-Pro was still flying. The gear was noisy and i'm sure grinding more and more away with every rotation. But it flew STRONG in 3d even on my last flight before bringing it home to hit the bench! I decided to go ahead and also snug the pinion to the gear more, which i normally would leave a hair between them. But with this helicopter, it seems to work out better having a tight meshed pinion. The gear does not seem to slip out of mesh in a crash and strip as easily. I could be wrong but thats what I'm doing right now. Also after a strip it will still grip the remaining tiny bit of crevice that remains without slipping. After all this work, i can't just replace a gear after a few teeth are flattened a little.

Just cleaning up the looks of it some here and hopefully making the sheer pin LESS durable. Man was it ugly. Not much better this time but the balance is better and this gear does not wobble much at all. Because i was more controlling on how i placed the epoxy. I tried to pack it in tight while keeping it even and smooth as possible for aesthetics. Then i just colored it in with a sharpie.. No mess and its indelible, so it should not fade much. Just so i don't have to notice it so much when i change the batteries

This time, i wanted to avoid having to bend my sheer pins to hold them in. I made sure to keep the pins inside the epoxy while making the gear. This way they are held snug by the epoxy after final installation. Just to be safe, I used a dab of CA on the ends to hold it from flying out or moving. Plus, anyone that has worked with metal stock or pipes before knows. By bending a shaft in 2 opposite sides, it's like shortening the pin. Physically making the center stronger! This is actually what we don't want in this case. We want the full length of our sheer pin to be mostly straight so that it can bend and break more easily. With such an already short piece of material, I'm sure this will help the pin inside the shaft bend or sheer in a crash more easily having the added length supported by the epoxy so it cannot move. Hopefully saving the main gear from stripping or breaking. I'm actually considering using a carbon fiber pin next if this does not work out. As it is strong under a direct load, but torquing it will sheer very easily. This could save money and time on replacement gears if it does not get all stuck inside and can be removed easily still. Just crash, replace the pin, and crash again! lol. Maybe next time on the CF pin. For now here is the pictures:
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Old Jul 09, 2012, 05:25 AM
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V1 durability mod gears are a Success!

V1 durability mod gears are a Success!

So i had my first crash with the V1 durability modified gear

The good news is, the new design change and application of the sheer pin WORKED! Previously my pin would never sheer in a crash because of the way it was bent in opposite direction to keep it from coming out. This new method of using a slightly longer pin and securing it with CA worked like a charm! The sheer pin broke on both sides immediately! i didn't even have a scuff on my gear teeth either! Pretty nice! I'm going to enjoy not having to pay for these gears all the time plus all the work to get them ready for flight. It's just not practical. This sheer pin design will ease the burden so you can enjoy the hobby more.
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Old Jul 10, 2012, 08:10 PM
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2801-pro Transmitter Settings

Since someone asked me what my transmitter settings were. I figure I will also post them here. Keep in mind that these are just for reference, and the settings I have personally settled on.

Normal
Pitch: 50 - 50 - 50 - 65 - 90
Throttle: 0 - 25 - 50 - 80 - 100

ST-1:
Pitch: 10 - 35 - 50 - 65 - 90
Throttle: 100 - 100 - 80 - 100 - 100

ST-2:
Pitch: 10 - 35 - 50 - 65 - 90
Throttle: 100 - 100 -100 -100 - 100

Gyro:
Position 0: 90%
Position 1: 80%

All Traveladj set to 100%. Swash limiting is done with the pitch curve in this case.

These settings are what I have settled on while using the wider, longer, heavier 140mm CF blades that i fly with. The results may be similar with the Solo Pro 180 blades as they are also longer and wider. But probably lighter than the CF. Not sure about this and how they will react but it should be comparable. For the stock D02S blades i would probably change my stunt mode pitch curves back to something more linear like 10 - 30 - 50 - 70 - 90. Because the narrower blades do not produce as much thrust are able to move pitch changes faster in the center of the stick without bogging the motor. They don't induce as much resistance on the head speed when changing pitch quickly. I prefer the heavier CF blades because they allow for more momentum in flight for 3d maneuvers like loops.
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Old Aug 10, 2012, 01:55 AM
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V120D05 Extreme tail fin set

I got tired of breaking the wire framed horizontal fin on my V120D05. I decided to try the Carbon Fiber tail fin set by Extreme. So far it's pretty nice. The horizontal fin is just a little bit smaller than i would like (to protect the tail rotor in a crash) But they are made out of nice quality CF. Over all installation is basically a pain! But it's worth it i think. You will have to remove the old stock stabilizer brace from the tail boom. I actually just cut mine off. The new one can be attached without removing the tail boom. The biggest pain, at least for me, was taking the rudder control rod apart to slide it through the new guide hole on the stabilizer. I used a black sharpie to mark where the ball linkage was screwed down to for when i have to put it back together. Here are some pictures:

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Old Aug 13, 2012, 02:39 AM
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V120D05CS-XTR Extreme Spin 16,300kv Motor Upgrade

When I got my Extreme spin motor I had nothing good to say about it after trying it in both my V120 size helicopters. I can honestly say though, I have underestimated the Extreme spin 16,300 motor! The motor I received came to me from the factory with motor wires and pins to fit the stock type ESC plug. WELL!!! The pins on were not tined, that is to say, that the pins were not prepared properly with solder before trying to attach them to the wire. They were basically held on there with the shrink wrap

The Extreme spin 16,300kv motor is in fact VERY viable for the V120d05 (after i resoldered it) Though the Turbo Ace 215 is still in my opinion the "Pro" motor. While the Extreme spin will be entitled as the "Sport" model. It still walks the stock motor to the park and makes it squat! Thats for sure. It ain't picking up after it either!

Here are some of todays flights (08/13/12):

V120d05CS-Sport - Test Flight #1 - Repaired wires on Extreme Spin motor (8 min 1 sec)


v120d05CS-Sport - Test Flight #2 Extreme spin 16,300 (7 min 15 sec)
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Old Sep 03, 2012, 09:33 PM
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0.032 Aluminum Stock Sheer pin



I have gotten rid of the durability modified gears because the sheer pins i have been using for a while now are much softer and literally sheer on impact. They are actually almost too soft. Which was why for a while there i would have rather put in the work to the main gear instead of having the sheer pin break in flight. Which i have actually already had happen once. But it was because i accidently hit TH and then turned it back on. The torque sheered the pin! lol. But otherwise they have been saving me tons of money. I prefer to glue them in so i can keep the pin straight but bending them in opposing direction will also be good. Maybe even better because you won't have to clean out the dried glue each time. Plus bending them will strengthen the pin in the middle where it should sheer.


Here is the pin installed in both my V120D05CS and my V120D02S, both of which are running upgraded motors:



http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showa...4&d=1346724766



I've had many crashes since using this material for a sheer pin. It is available in "stock" rods or in wire form also i have heard others on the v120 thread talk about too. Now my V120D05CS-Pro/Sport helicopter is as honestly more durable than the V120d02S even with a slipper clutch installed. The tail boom is solid and does not crack so.... you can do the math over all cost..... Weather or not it's worth it to do all these upgrades. That part is up to you to decide. Here is 2 pictures from my first 2 crashes with these sheer pins. They were actually full throttle crashes into the ground. The gear teeth are still 100% after about 6 crashes so far.

Crashed gear and sheer pin #1


Crashed gear and sheer pin #2



Okay there are some more pictures of how i install mine included with the images attached to this message. I am not going to post them all here in the message because they are pretty self explanatory and take up a lot of space in the thread. I think bending the pins instead of using glue to secure them might be easier, and possibly better all around because it will strengthen the pin. But i have had a few pins get stuck inside the main shaft after bending the pins to secure them. It might not be exclusive to that method, but still. When the pin gets stuck in there it is not very fun to get out sometimes. Although, thinking about it now. It is possible that there was glue inside the main shaft making it harder to remove the broken piece. /shrug never can tell sometimes.
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Old Sep 11, 2012, 11:13 PM
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Hi

I am placing an order for the D02s parts, however you have mentioned in the last line of parts:
3 ball joints to replace the ones your current servo. Where can we get this? I mean on jade or MM, they don't have ball joints listed in parts? Any compatible model etc?
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