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Old Jul 15, 2009, 10:52 AM
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Tamiya paint on EPO,EPS,ELAPOR,EPP,DEPRON?

I have loads of Tamiya polycarbonates and "for plastics" which I've used for modelling and doing car shells. I was wondering if the "for plastics" one which I think is acrylic would work on all the different foams? I'd imagine the polycarbonates would probably eat through it.


Edward
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Old Sep 23, 2009, 07:34 PM
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Hope you haven't been waitng long for an answer ;^)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Edwong
I have loads of Tamiya polycarbonates and "for plastics" which I've used for modelling and doing car shells. I was wondering if the "for plastics" one which I think is acrylic would work on all the different foams? I'd imagine the polycarbonates would probably eat through it.

Edward
Here's a answer I gave on another forum site, hope you haven't been holding your breath for an answer to your question.

Almost ANY paint will work on Elapor, the trick is using one that remains FLEXIBLE, since Elapor bends and twists easily. It is NOT a matter of priming, but of picking a paint that doesn't become rigid and chip or flake off when (and it will) the Elapor flexes, and cleaning the mold process chemicals off the fresh Elapor.

Clean the Elapor with 98% Alcohol, even VERY LIGHTLY sanding the surface could improve stickiness, although I have never found a use for this and paint doens't come off any of my MPX planes (6 of them).

Paint I like - Tamiya Color TS (small spray can) for Plastic, by nature is meant to remain flexible since it's for plastic. Rust-Oleum Paint for Plastic (big spray can), for the same reason. Krylon Fluorescent spray stays reasonably flexible for the same reasons previously mentioned.

Paint I can't stand - Krylon H2O is crap, it's sprays lumpy, clumpy and sloppy; and it runs like sissy at a gang fight. Painters tape is useless with Krylon H2O, it even runs underneath! (I have 7 new cans, sell them cheap!). Besides, there is no need to use Water Based paint on Elapor, even Enamel and Lacquer is OK to use!

Now in general, which is better - Enamel or Lacquer?? Theoretically Lacquer should be remain more flexible than Enamel, since Vintage guitars were and are finished in Nitrocellulose Lacquer and guitar wood MUST breath and expand / contract for decades. However any good custom car painter / body shop guy will tell you "nuts on that, Enamel is more flexible, ever see a deep fender dent and no cracking of the paint??" I have no idea who or what is more correct, do you?

As for "primer" .... forget about it!" You don't need it. You're just adding more weight to the plane and another layer that WILL crack and fall off.
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