I put an electrical tie around the caps only, not the wires. I called castle an they had me a new shrink wrap in 3 days. FREE
That was on a 110 hv with 6 caps

Originally Posted by rimripper

I scuff the case and epoxied the halves together.

And removed the tabs?

Can it be fitted and removed from the motor mount access?

Originally Posted by feefo

There's quite a few servo's that can be run off a lifePO4 pack (6.6v), but 2s lipo's are too much. Atlas DS09FMD wing servo is one.

Atlas Hyperion are doing a range of HV servo's too, they can be run off a 2s lipo as well as a lifePO http://robotbirds.com/catalog/index....sort=2a&page=2

Or there's the Hitec wing servo http://www.servoshop.co.uk/index.php...15S&area=Servo , not exactly a budget servo tho.

A very quick look at Hobbyking and they're offer HV servo's too, but I didn't look a t how big they are.

Are you running thin wing servos in your FJ/FJU ?

Originally Posted by feefo

It looks like the mounting tabs of the case would need removing, and possibly the screw holes that hold the case halves together (ok there's 3 parts to the case but you know what I mean). Guess I'd have to glue the case together or use heatshrink if I wanted to use the case.

Or cut the turtle deck, fit the esc and then glue the deck. This is my last option, really don't want to do this.

The cable ties really help TBH but I'm getting all paranoid about the capacitors breaking again. The advice on the Schulze link a few posts back suggested CA'ing the pos and neg wires to the caps, but the CC wires are silicon and won't stick.

Just heat shrink the whole thing. Small piece start from where the wire stops at the board, right up against the heat sink, go to 1/8" away from the top of the caps. Keep the wire inside the heatshrink, and you will still have full airflow through the ESC.

I just hack away at the plastic cover

Originally Posted by rimripper

I scuff the case and epoxied the halves together.

Any special epoxy ?

It was.....I ll check when home,30 min. epoxy.
I'll post a pic when I get home,hence on scuffing,really need to give the epoxy something to bite too.

Originally Posted by moparmyway

Are you running thin wing servos in your FJ/FJU ?

No I'm using HS85's, and my gliders have enough space in the servo bay to allow me to use thicker servo's than the Atlas so I haven't needed to use them yet. If you need more info on the wing servo's, F3F threads are usually a good place to look or ask. Some users had probs with the Atlas burning out, might have been over voltage as a 6v nimh rx pack is over 7v, or poor linkage design stressing the servo. Some of the Hitec digi's have poor reports too, seems they are more prone to burning out that the analogue versions.

Originally Posted by moparmyway

Just heat shrink the whole thing. Small piece start from where the wire stops at the board, right up against the heat sink, go to 1/8" away from the top of the caps. Keep the wire inside the heat shrink, and you will still have full airflow through the ESC.

I just hack away at the plastic cover

Looks like a great option, I think I'll try that and when I return the esc I won't include the case. Think I'll get another Ice 100a and return the faulty 1 later on.

Originally Posted by feefo

It looks like the mounting tabs of the case would need removing, and possibly the screw holes that hold the case halves together (ok there's 3 parts to the case but you know what I mean). Guess I'd have to glue the case together or use heatshrink if I wanted to use the case.

Or cut the turtle deck, fit the esc and then glue the deck. This is my last option, really don't want to do this.

The cable ties really help TBH but I'm getting all paranoid about the capacitors breaking again. The advice on the Schulze link a few posts back suggested CA'ing the pos and neg wires to the caps, but the CC wires are silicon and won't stick.

Hey Feefo...what ya think about applyin Hot Glue down the length of the Caps along the power wires...then a line of glue between the caps...that would lock it in pretty well...I mean fair enough for normal usage ..just a thought for an easy application fix.....Maybe..

Billy

Originally Posted by cjbucher

Timing issues are really related to the number of poles the motor has. Inrunner motors have much lower pole counts. HET's are usually 6 pole motors and have no problems at all with Plush ESC's.

Outrunners in general usually have a lot more poles and because of that need to switch more often per revolution. If you go high in voltage (like 4s in your case), a cheaper ESC may not have a fast enough processor to keep up with how often the motor needs to switch and you end up with timing issues.

Don't go with the HET 2W20 though. 3400kv will only let you run small props. The Funjet really comes alive with a 6" or better prop. Go with the HET 2W25. This will still allow you to use your 60 amp ESC. You can run a graupner 6x5.5 prop on it and it will draw 62 amps static (less in the air) using a 3s battery. This will give you a 120 mph Funjet.

(I also have an original funjet and run this exact setup - except I'm using a plush 80 amp esc)

If you don't like running close to 60 amps, you can use the venerable APC 6x4 "sport" prop. It will get close to 110 and your amps will be around 47 amps.

Plus when you are ready for more speed, you can get a 4s for it and use the 6x4 sport prop for around 130 mph.

How's that?

Thanks a lot. This is highly appreciated piece of advice.

Originally Posted by feefo

No I'm using HS85's
.

Yup, I use the 5085's ............... this is the HV version of the 85's for our FJ's and FJU's !!!

Run an ICE HV ESC ?
Slap in these servos, and run a 2s250 (25/50) @ just 17 grams with any good 2.4gHz receiver ???

HS5087MH is next on my list !

Originally Posted by moparmyway

Yup, I use the 5085's ............... this is the HV version of the 85's for our FJ's and FJU's !!!

Run an ICE HV ESC ?
Slap in these servos, and run a 2s250 (25/50) @ just 17 grams with any good 2.4gHz receiver ???

HS5087MH is next on my list !

That sounds like a great option, not something I'd have considered, but will now.

On the subject of HV Ice, do they have a min operating voltage as only the max is mentioned.

Minimum is 4 cell on castle hv esc

Originally Posted by dmaaero

Minimum is 4 cell on castle hv esc

That (4S min) is what the Castle Techs have always told me.
(original Phoenix HV and Phoenix ICE HV ESCs)

They also said to de-rate the ESC when running it on low cell count. That came from 2 different phone techs at Castle.
Meaning look at the HV ESC as having lower AMP rating when running it on lower end of cell counts. {Sounds weird}


If I remember right, Moparmyway has run Castle ICE HV ESC on 3S without any issues. Hopefully he will chime in.


Gryphon

Originally Posted by moparmyway

Yup, I use the 5085's ............... this is the HV version of the 85's for our FJ's and FJU's !!!
...

No, the HS-5085MG is just the digital version of the HS-85MG:

http://www.hitecrcd.com/products/dig...hs-5085mg.html

The HV version of the HS-5085MG is the HS-5087MH (the H is the indicator for High Voltage here).

Jürgen

Originally Posted by Jurgen Heilig

No, the HS-5085MG is just the digital version of the HS-85MG:

http://www.hitecrcd.com/products/dig...hs-5085mg.html

The HV version of the HS-5085MG is the HS-5087MH (the H is the indicator for High Voltage here).

Jürgen

Hi Jurgen,
Thanks for agreeing with me yet again !!

I did state that I use the Hs5085MG's and that "this" servo (the one I linked prior) was the HV version.

Please read all of the posts as this will help you understand whats being written or spoken about