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Old Jul 28, 2010, 06:55 PM
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San Antonio, TX
Joined Jul 2004
565 Posts
I have extra fiberglass spars 1/8" round. I am going with that top and bottom on the hopped up Assassins. It's extra work but they don't break on these demons.

We were doing a new game that included a drag race. The 200 watt Assassin will beat a 300 watt Titan, even the 48" Titan with 300 watts.

The motor we are using on the Assassins is the Tower Pro 2409-12delta. Uses the same prop 7x6. Shaft is a little spindly but heck of a motor. We use the same ESC as the "wimpy" red motors.

We also have 50' collapssable pole when they get stuck in the trees.
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Old Jul 29, 2010, 06:43 AM
Lee
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USA, UT, Orem
Joined Jul 2004
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Is this the motor?

http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...ner_TP2409_12D

Are you reversing the shaft like this?

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...67&postcount=6

What problems have you had with the motor? Have any burned out?

Do they fit on the Crashtesthobby motor mount that comes with the Assassin? ( I think they will!)
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Old Jul 29, 2010, 08:50 AM
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San Antonio, TX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lee View Post
Is this the motor?

http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...ner_TP2409_12D

Are you reversing the shaft like this?

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...67&postcount=6

What problems have you had with the motor? Have any burned out?

Do they fit on the Crashtesthobby motor mount that comes with the Assassin? ( I think they will!)
Yes, that is the motor. We are reversing the shaft and there is no pesky E-clip only two screws to loosen and tighten. Shaft is fairly loose. Seems like a couple whacks with the handle of a screw driver while holding it in my hand is all it takes unlike the Turnigy 35-30A.

Shaft is 3mm so everything from the red motor transfers over no problem and the motor mounts on the Assassin kit supplied motor mount.

The motor is being used on 4 different Assassins. No burn out motors or ESCs. We broke a motor with a loose set screw hiding in the magnets and windings and also a bent shaft after a hard landing.

At first start up the motor with a fresh 3S battery puts out 250 watts with the 7X6 prop.

The Turnigy 28-26, that has been suggested as a replacement to the red motor-FC 28-12, will burn up if you try to use the 7X6 prop. Of course the 28-26 is listed as a 140 watt motor and the Tower Pro 2409-12D is listed as a 200 watt motor on the Hobby King website.
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Old Jul 29, 2010, 09:03 AM
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San Antonio, TX
Joined Jul 2004
565 Posts
The motor mount process we are using now is with 3"x3" piece of 1/16" ply instead of the supplied formica. The motor mount is mounted to the plywood using 1/8" 4-40 blind nut and two 4-40 metal screws.

Through the big hole of the motor mount is inserted a 1/4" nylon bolt through the drilled plywood and foam of the wing. The nut resides on the top of the wing with a load spreading washer of 1/16" plywood usually 1"x1". A piece of Extreme tape is taped across the bottom of the wing over the motor mount assembly to secure the lateral movement.

This is used to facilitate the easy on and off of the motor. We do not glue the motor mount assemblage to the wing anymore

Pictures will follow.

C
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Old Jul 29, 2010, 09:17 AM
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San Antonio, TX
Joined Jul 2004
565 Posts
Motor Mounts

Here are the pictures of how we are doing all our Crash Test wing motor mounts.

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Old Jul 29, 2010, 09:20 AM
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Spanish Fork Utah
Joined Mar 2005
1,327 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Telemachus View Post
Any links for c clips that are known to fit the 2812 motors?
Did you ever find any of these? How many do you need?
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Old Jul 29, 2010, 12:17 PM
Heli Humbled Daily
Riverside, CA
Joined Jul 2006
2,973 Posts
I ordered them from a place not too far from where I live

http://www.nitrorcx.com/mad-np0097.html

along with 2 of these WAY cheap 5g 3 channel rx that work with the 9x radio:

http://www.nitrorcx.com/fs-gtr3c-receiver.html

Shipping is only $5, and code RCX10 gets you %10 off.

I no longer buy any receivers for the Spektrum, all but 3 in my fleet have moved over to the 9x!!

http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...)_(v2_Firmware)

http://www.rcmodelreviews.com/forum/...start=80#p1857

(in fact, anyone want to buy a DX7??)
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Old Aug 06, 2010, 10:01 AM
Lee
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USA, UT, Orem
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I trimmed in new Assassins for a newer flyer and his wife last night. They had done great build jobs and the planes fly great. They had some building questions and I thought that I would also address them here. I think that if someone here has problems that some of you out there may be having the same problems.

These are the most common problems I see so it is good to take a look at them again.

The instructions and videos discuss the alignment of the pushrods and horns but are a little difficult to understand. They watched the building videos but still had some questions.

Their servos were tall and they had them mounted with the servo arms high enough above the wing that they couldn't glue the wire guides to the top of the wing.

Some ways to fix this are to put the servos as deep in the wing as possible and install the Z bend end of the push rod underneath the servo arm. To do this you have to take the servo arm off the servo and push the Z bend up though the arm. The EZ connector is then on the horn on the elevon.

We have been experimenting with a new wire guide idea. Try using a 3/4" (1.5" wire bent in half) bent wire and gluing it in a hole you melt with the soldering iron in the wing at the middle of the pushrod. It slides well, looks better and is stronger than the straw guides. A common paper clip makes a good wire guide wire. Just don't get glue on the pushrod that restricts movement of the rod though the guide.

They also had not pointed the horns on the control rods at the servos but had installed them at 90 degrees to the hinge line. This is a common problem. It allows the pushrod to shift back and forth as the servo moves the pushrod and it puts push or pull on the horn. Make sure to aim the horn at the servo.

Their planes had tons of movement on the elevons. We cut the throws in half and still had a lot of throw. I recommended moving the pushrod into a hole closer to the servo to decrease the stress on the servo to decrease the throw on the elevons. This adds mechanical advantage to the servo that just turning down the throw in the transmitter program does not add.

Also remember for starters align the bottom of the elevons with the bottom angle of the wing after you have turned on the radio and zeroed the trims.

For most builders these are the most common problems they have. I hope the videos add some insight into the building process.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...31&postcount=2

Lee
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Last edited by Lee; Aug 06, 2010 at 10:24 AM.
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Old Aug 06, 2010, 12:14 PM
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United States, AR, Fayetteville
Joined May 2005
32 Posts
Great Tips! Just ordered my Assassin yesterday and it's already shipped! Hoping for a rainy day next week for the build.

My Swift II has been keeping me busy. I use the 7.4v Lipos to laze around, but had to use the 11.1v last night because the wind had picked up. Curious to see how the Assassin is going to compare.
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Old Aug 07, 2010, 10:23 AM
Lee
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We have had Swifts flying combat with us. They fly well but can't stand up to the abuse of combat as well.
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Old Aug 07, 2010, 12:59 PM
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Western Europe 52.7 N 8.9 W
Joined Jul 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lee View Post
We have had Swifts flying combat with us. They fly well but can't stand up to the abuse of combat as well.
Combat Assassins eat Swifts for supper .....

we all know that ....
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Old Aug 07, 2010, 06:45 PM
Lee
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They were designed to do different things.

I helped another couple of newbies with trimming their Assassins. One had the servos on the elevons reversed. Even I can't fly them that way. Both had waaaayyyyyy too much throw for their skill level. Both planes flew very well with a couple of minor adjustments.

Not to pick on anyone, (please have a sense of humor ) one plane the owner said he couldn't get it to fly. I launched it without doing anything to it and it flew great without more than a click or two of trim. The problem is too much movement on the elevons and he would pull up and snap roll it on take off rather than just letting it fly. I turned his dual rates down to 70% and it was still lively. He did several flights alone after I turned the throws down.

I recommend that you keep the "Z" bend on the servo arm and the EZ connector on the elevon horn. Put the pushrod close to the center of the servo not out on the end of a long servo arm. Help the servo out by letting it turn as much as possible to give the right amount of throw to get the best mechanical advantage.

Most people want to fly with just their thumbs on the sticks. Some fly well this way but I can spot most of the thumb flyers from a mile away because of how jerky their plane is flying. The left stick is not a big deal but at least on the right stick I recommend pinching it rather hard and not letting go when you move it.
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Old Aug 17, 2010, 07:23 PM
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USA, OH, Mason
Joined Jun 2010
136 Posts
SUCCESS! Maidened my Assassin today. It's actually my second Assassin maiden in three days but I'll get back to that later.

I have gotten back into RC this year after dabbling as a teenager. I have gone through a few planes already.. most still fly to some extent but I'm hitting the limits of what 5-minute epoxy can do. So I picked the Assassin as a way to just enjoy flying without worring about crashes, hard landings, quirky gas engines, windy days and trusting my kids with the sticks.

Here she is, post-first-flight:
Name: IMAG0206.jpg
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The build is pretty stock; 1300mah 3s lipo, Mystery 30a ESC, AR6100e radio, TowerPro MG servos, cheapie motor.

Everything trimmed out nicely and my 11-year-old son and I took turns flying. We each flubbed a launch sending the plane carwheeling. He dropped it in the soybean field once. I was messing with the plane on purpose and it got away from me at the end of the runway and hit the grass at mid-power in open view of everone in the RC club sitting around. I think their jaws dropped when I walked up calmly, straighted the prop and threw it back in the air without giving it any thought! In my last flight I was fooling around again and put it into the turf HARD. Unfortunately, that crash was farther away and no one was there to appreciate me rubbing the grass stains off a perfectly intact plane.

So SUCCESS! Thanks to Lee and everyone who had input into this design. It's a winner and I'm already working on another one (embedded lights for night flight!).

Now, about last Friday. That was my first Assassin maiden. I unwisely used a knock-off Spektrum AR6100e receiver. Although it tested fine on the ground and had a good first flight, on the second flight it lost signal when my son took it a little farther than I did. It flew beautifully and descended slowly into a soybean patch a few hundred feet away. Two 2-hour search sessions were unfruitful, so I ordered another Assassin body on Saturday, it arrived on Monday (!!), I built it Monday night and flew it today (Tuesday)--with a real Spektrum A6100e.

Edit: added pictures after finishing the decal/foil job
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Old Aug 18, 2010, 12:01 AM
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San Antonio, TX
Joined Jul 2004
565 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lee View Post

I recommend that you keep the "Z" bend on the servo arm and the EZ connector on the elevon horn. Put the pushrod close to the center of the servo not out on the end of a long servo arm. Help the servo out by letting it turn as much as possible to give the right amount of throw to get the best mechanical advantage.
Amen to all that, and use the metal piece instead of the plastic on the EZ connector. The piece that pushes onto the pin of the EZ Connector.

I am an un-repentant thumb flyer. My brain wont let me use my fingers and it looks so dainty.

Lee I am becoming a 3M90 convert. From my tests with squeegying on the 3M90, letting it dry for an hour then laying down the Extreme tape, going over it with an iron at 275F. It's as if the tape become part of the foam the adhesion was so good in fact pulling up the tape brought foam with it. There was not a piece of the tape that was sticky anymore because it was covered with foam. It adds 4 grams of weight to a Scythe and I imagine it would be 1/2oz+ to an Assassin. In crashes the covering wont pull away from the foam. Or if it does you can iron it back down. You would not need it for the tape covered elevons. I am excited again about using the laminate.
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Old Aug 18, 2010, 09:09 AM
Lee
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USA, UT, Orem
Joined Jul 2004
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I don't use the 3M90 on every plane but I will use it at times. The 3M90m will totally dry while the 3M77 stays sticky and heavier. I let the 3M90 dry overnight. When you spray the 3M90 it looks like you have cottage cheese on the wing. But don't panic.... when you iron it the roughness goes away and it smooths out well.

Don't over drill any of the holes for the linkages in the horns and servo arms, make sure they are tight so there is no slop. I have seen several planes lately where the EZ connector can move in the hole in the horn and the wire is loose in the servo arm because the holes are too big. Repeat after me "Tight Linkages!!!!" It does make a difference.
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