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Old Aug 17, 2014, 11:38 AM
Blind Hawk
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Seattle, WA USA
Joined Dec 2006
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Corian polishing

I've cut a new set of wing molds and started the sanding/polishing process.

At this point I've got one wing half sanded down to 1200 grit wet/dry. I then polished with "automotive" rubbing compound and polishing compound. The finish is nice but I can see very fine marks in it. The Corian is black so it shows up the marks very well in the right light.

Would love to know from others who have polished Corian a couple things.

1. How fine of grit paper do you go down to?
2. Are there good/bad polishing compounds you've used?

Thanks, Rj
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Old Aug 17, 2014, 12:31 PM
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United States, WA, North Bend
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Rick - From the polishing I have done I would guess the light marks are artifacts from some of the heavier grit paper. I have only done 2 full sets of tail molds with corian but I tried to make small incremental steps starting at 320 and working to 2000. Then mothers pure polish followed by micro polishing glaze.

Can't wait to see your new ships
Lee
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Old Aug 17, 2014, 02:50 PM
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Sweden, Dalarna County, Sälen
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I use down to 2000grit as well. Have tried both car polish and a polish cream called "autosol". Witch is made for chrome details on cars and works extremly well on plexi. But the best result i got is with some hard polishing paste bought from R-G Germany. Needs machine cause its so damn hard to work out but the result is the best. All my tests are made with machine so there should be no differance there.
One thing more. I use Hanex insted of Corian. The compound should be exact the same but their might be some small differences. There is smal differences in the diffrent colors of corian as well.

A little picture of your work would be very appreciated.

//Kalle
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Old Aug 17, 2014, 05:43 PM
Blind Hawk
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Input appreciated, sounding like I need to get to 2000 grit for sure. And then try some different polishing compounds.

I'm away on vacation for a few days, will post some picts when I get home next week.

Rj
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Old Aug 18, 2014, 10:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Airman87 View Post
One thing more. I use Hanex insted of Corian. The compound should be exact the same but their might be some small differences. There is smal differences in the diffrent colors of corian as well.
//Kalle
There are a lot of differences between the different manufacturers of solid surfacing materials. Each one is made from a different base binder. Dupont Corian is very thermoformable, while many of the others are not, maybe because they are made from a polyester material like Bondo. Mixing different brands of sheet stock on the same laminated block to make a mold would be a big no-no. Plus the glues are different for each brand and may not bond well to dissimillar brands. It would be like laminating Lexan sheet with sheet of vinylester fiberglass.
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Old Aug 18, 2014, 05:16 PM
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Thanks for the info. Did not know that it would be that much difference.
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Old Aug 19, 2014, 11:38 AM
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Thermal expansion wise, they are more similar, probably because they are highly filled with some sort of affordable mineral like ATH, but of course different colors will have a slight difference because of the different pigments added. Dupont was very proud of the fact that Corian was thermoformable. In one of their classes, they would take a piece 2"x12", put it in an oven and when hot, tie it into a knot and let it cool.
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Old Yesterday, 11:00 PM
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I rarely go finer than 1000 grit. I use 320 and 400 and 600 paper with lots of water, then switch to abralon pads then a rubbing compound. If you're waxing and using PVA going finer won't affect the finish. If you're using semi-permanents you need to go as far as you can stand.

IME different colors don't really make much difference, but different brands certainly have different properties. Corian (Dupont) is middle of the road, but I prefer LG Himacs which sands and polishes more easily but is a bit more scratch prone. I've used several brands with only slight differences.

All of the major brand solid surface products are thermoform able. They typically start to lose stability around 160F and are very pliable at around 200-230F. I heat them to 275 when I make my dihedral braces and supports. Easier than machining them I've thermoformed Corian, HiMacs, Formica, Staron….
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Old Today, 03:44 PM
Blind Hawk
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Thank Tom. Had to "Google" abralon pads :-)

I am using wax/pva for release. The material is actually the Formica brand. I'll probably try a few test wings before going for the ultimate polish but I'd like this wing to look as good as possible.

Rick
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Old Today, 04:12 PM
Father of Fr3aK, DLG Pilot
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Yep. Make the LE area really nice because any repolishing there risks rounding the edges at the parting plane.

Polishing is best using the Novus system. #2 and #3 are quite useful. #1 not so much since you'll be hitting it with partall anyhow. Use the red can partall stuff. Way easier buff, just use more coats.
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