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Old Jan 30, 2016, 06:33 AM
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If you connect to APM PLANNER 2 and attempt to arm the pre arm problem will be displayed in the artifical horizon screen

ie Pre-Arm GPS High HDOP

then you can look up what the message means and adjust it.

Good Luck

Mark
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Old Jan 30, 2016, 01:17 PM
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arming problem

Quote:
Originally Posted by magic_marty View Post
You can try disabling all the Pre-arm flight checks to see if it fixes it then enable them one at a time trying to arm in between to perhaps figure out if one of them is causing it...I had a similar problem and it turned out to be the throttle was set to low on my tx, i had it set to far below 1000pwm and would not arm...somehow it was triggering failsafe if i remember correctly
thank you. this helped. now it works i can arm/disarm normally.
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Old Jan 30, 2016, 01:56 PM
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So this isn't directly related to the flight controller itself, but can anyone shed some light on why power modules continually need to be calibrated? I test a battery with a volt meter, enter that in Mission Planner as the measured voltage and it seems fine. But after a few battery changes, this always ends up being off. Yesterday, I calibrated right before leaving home, got to my flying field only to have every fully charged battery trigger a RTL within two minutes of lifting off. When I connected to the flight controller, Mission Planner was indicating the voltage was 8.5 volts. I check with my volt meter and they're all at 11.5 or better.

Why can my simple 20 year old volt meter give solid, consistent readings and these power modules can't seem to measure a voltage with any accuracy until calibrated and then can't hold that calibration for any modest amount of time?

Are my cheapo power modules to blame? Even if so, the presence of the calibration section in Mission Planner speaks to the necessity regardless of quality of module, while at the same time, any dollar store volt meter can provide consistent, reasonably accurate, readings out of the box.

I'm not griping on power modules as much as I'm just perplexed by the need to calibrate so often.
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Old Jan 30, 2016, 03:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oldgazer View Post
Voltage and current are both monitored and recorded in the Data Flash log.

You can load a log into the log browser and plot Voltage, Current, and Total Current.

http://copter.ardupilot.com/wiki/com...ms-using-logs/
Thanks again I work on that. I would imagine that they will help diagnose how to finish adjusting it. It fly's in stabilize nice at the moment but it's not fully loaded with the AV gear. I imagine that won't need to much adjustment other than setting the throttle range correctly. It defiantly needs help with the poshold, loitor modes I had a cull in the wind and after disabling the battery failsafe and a half dozen short flights that's my ignorant conclusion. But one step at a time. From total ignorance to this point with out any major issues is a big accomplishment at least for me. I know no one that is doing anything like this in my area, if it weren't for you folks I'd be lost. Thanks
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Old Jan 30, 2016, 03:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whirlygig View Post
So this isn't directly related to the flight controller itself, but can anyone shed some light on why power modules continually need to be calibrated? I test a battery with a volt meter, enter that in Mission Planner as the measured voltage and it seems fine. But after a few battery changes, this always ends up being off. Yesterday, I calibrated right before leaving home, got to my flying field only to have every fully charged battery trigger a RTL within two minutes of lifting off. When I connected to the flight controller, Mission Planner was indicating the voltage was 8.5 volts. I check with my volt meter and they're all at 11.5 or better.

Why can my simple 20 year old volt meter give solid, consistent readings and these power modules can't seem to measure a voltage with any accuracy until calibrated and then can't hold that calibration for any modest amount of time?

Are my cheapo power modules to blame? Even if so, the presence of the calibration section in Mission Planner speaks to the necessity regardless of quality of module, while at the same time, any dollar store volt meter can provide consistent, reasonably accurate, readings out of the box.

I'm not griping on power modules as much as I'm just perplexed by the need to calibrate so often.
I had the same problem before and turned out i had the power module settings wrong..i changed it to non-3DR module i think and it worked but this may not be your problem and it had been a while and memory fails me a bit but you might check to see how you have your set..
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Old Jan 30, 2016, 04:50 PM
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I never actually worry about it being exact or even that close to exact. I always ALWAYS use these
Name: LIPO-ALARM-1-2.jpg
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And set it to 3.7v and as soon as it goes off I start bringing it in and landing. I normally have about about a minute left when it goes off and my lipos 20% left when I finally land. It jogs pretty well with what mission planner reports and I have yet to have to let a failsafe kick in because I let my battery get too low

When I run dual lipos both get one
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Old Jan 30, 2016, 05:31 PM
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Originally Posted by TheQuestor View Post
I never actually worry about it being exact or even that close to exact. I always ALWAYS use these
Attachment 8654964
Ahhh cripes... I just placed an order with HobbyKing, I could have added a few of them. Somehow, every time I start with a $5 item, the order balloons to at least $150 by the time I'm done! I could use one of those... and two of those, I've had my eye on one of these, and I should have a few extra of those...

Is it loud enough to hear from any appreciable distance? I know the APMs buzzer is pretty much inaudible until the thing is under 10 feet away.

I'd still love to know why it's so hard for the power module to read the voltage, if for no other reason than to eliminate another component needing to be added to the quad. I'm trying to build a pretty small APM based quad and space is always at a premium.

magic_marty, I'll look into that. I think I have it set the only way I get the option to calibrate - need to set the power module to "other" and the APM version to 2.5+...

Still though, again, any dollar store meter seems able to read voltages stably and to a reasonably accurate degree right out of the box. Hard to understand how a $20 power module can't.
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Old Jan 30, 2016, 05:51 PM
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Even if mine seem to work well i still use a battery alarm as extra insurance ..on my 450 heli i don't have a power module so the battery alarm is all i use and so far it always works..and yes they are very very loud, much louder then the apm buzzer..
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Old Jan 30, 2016, 06:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whirlygig View Post
Ahhh cripes... I just placed an order with HobbyKing, I could have added a few of them. Somehow, every time I start with a $5 item, the order balloons to at least $150 by the time I'm done! I could use one of those... and two of those, I've had my eye on one of these, and I should have a few extra of those...

Is it loud enough to hear from any appreciable distance? I know the APMs buzzer is pretty much inaudible until the thing is under 10 feet away.

I'd still love to know why it's so hard for the power module to read the voltage, if for no other reason than to eliminate another component needing to be added to the quad. I'm trying to build a pretty small APM based quad and space is always at a premium.

magic_marty, I'll look into that. I think I have it set the only way I get the option to calibrate - need to set the power module to "other" and the APM version to 2.5+...

Still though, again, any dollar store meter seems able to read voltages stably and to a reasonably accurate degree right out of the box. Hard to understand how a $20 power module can't.
you can hear them VERY far away. And 20 bucks for a PM? I never pay more than 8 or 9 and you can get like 10 of these alarms for like 15 bucks lol.

I NEVER buy from hobbyking unless it's like batteries or velcro lol

http://www.ebay.com/itm/6-X-1-8S-2in...EAAOSwF1dUQI8o

6 for 11 bucks US Shipper.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/APM2-5-2-APM...MAAOSwLVZVp1V2

$8.50 for the v1.0 which work very well.

Just make sure you keep these alarms FAR away from the APM/Hawk/GPS+MAG as they can and do cause tons of magnetic interference.
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Old Jan 30, 2016, 07:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whirlygig View Post
So this isn't directly related to the flight controller itself, but can anyone shed some light on why power modules continually need to be calibrated? I test a battery with a volt meter, enter that in Mission Planner as the measured voltage and it seems fine. But after a few battery changes, this always ends up being off. Yesterday, I calibrated right before leaving home, got to my flying field only to have every fully charged battery trigger a RTL within two minutes of lifting off. When I connected to the flight controller, Mission Planner was indicating the voltage was 8.5 volts. I check with my volt meter and they're all at 11.5 or better.

Why can my simple 20 year old volt meter give solid, consistent readings and these power modules can't seem to measure a voltage with any accuracy until calibrated and then can't hold that calibration for any modest amount of time?

Are my cheapo power modules to blame? Even if so, the presence of the calibration section in Mission Planner speaks to the necessity regardless of quality of module, while at the same time, any dollar store volt meter can provide consistent, reasonably accurate, readings out of the box.

I'm not griping on power modules as much as I'm just perplexed by the need to calibrate so often.
Keep in mind that a battery under full load will measure differently than a battery at rest or under light load. I had a problem like yours with batteries that were aging and had what seemed like early power drops when flying, but tested great with a voltmeter once the load was removed. For me, it was time for new batteries.
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Old Jan 30, 2016, 08:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whirlygig View Post
So this isn't directly related to the flight controller itself, but can anyone shed some light on why power modules continually need to be calibrated? I test a battery with a volt meter, enter that in Mission Planner as the measured voltage and it seems fine. But after a few battery changes, this always ends up being off. Yesterday, I calibrated right before leaving home, got to my flying field only to have every fully charged battery trigger a RTL within two minutes of lifting off. When I connected to the flight controller, Mission Planner was indicating the voltage was 8.5 volts. I check with my volt meter and they're all at 11.5 or better.

Why can my simple 20 year old volt meter give solid, consistent readings and these power modules can't seem to measure a voltage with any accuracy until calibrated and then can't hold that calibration for any modest amount of time?

Are my cheapo power modules to blame? Even if so, the presence of the calibration section in Mission Planner speaks to the necessity regardless of quality of module, while at the same time, any dollar store volt meter can provide consistent, reasonably accurate, readings out of the box.

I'm not griping on power modules as much as I'm just perplexed by the need to calibrate so often.
You need to use a watt meter and calibrate the PMs for voltage AND current UNDER LOAD.

The wiki describes the process here: http://copter.ardupilot.com/wiki/com...-power-module/

I tried it that way and the voltage was always "off". Then I remembered that when I was in the service we always calibrated stuff under a load.

I did that, and my voltages are within +- 0.20 volts, and current draw is within +- 200mAh.

When you enter a new measured voltage or current be sure you click on a different data field so the new value is applied and saved.

I also run the throttle up and down to see if current and voltage track...
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Old Jan 30, 2016, 09:03 PM
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Thanks everyone, I've calibrated the current under load, but not the voltage. My meter only goes up to 10 amps, so that's been a bit tough. I have an in-line analyzer on the way, so that should be able to do both at the same time a lot more easily.

I've had them calibrated really well at times, at others they never seem to hold.
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Old Jan 30, 2016, 09:22 PM
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This method works well to..http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2279282
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Old Jan 30, 2016, 10:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheQuestor View Post
I never actually worry about it being exact or even that close to exact. I always ALWAYS use these
Attachment 8654964

And set it to 3.7v and as soon as it goes off I start bringing it in and landing. I normally have about about a minute left when it goes off and my lipos 20% left when I finally land. It jogs pretty well with what mission planner reports and I have yet to have to let a failsafe kick in because I let my battery get too low

When I run dual lipos both get one
Better check them before using some of those are off by .5V and usually off by .2V
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Old Feb 08, 2016, 09:56 PM
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So I am having a problem with my Apm 2.6..

I have a Apm 2.6
Ztw 30a opto Escs (3 wires instead of the 2)
Emax 2216 motors
Turnigy 9x

Here's the problem..

I've loaded firmware 3.2.1 onto the Apm and did the wizard except the compass calibration because Gps won't be here till tomorrow and everything looks ok but when I plug the battery in there's no sound from motors...
I soldered on the power module to my Pcb, removed the jp1 also..
Do I need a bec?
Why am I not getting power to motors?
Here's a couple pictures.
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