Congratulations! That has to be one of the most involved and most difficult repair. I've worked on these tiny board myself, and they are a challenge. I call that an accomplishment. Good job! Now enjoy flying. Cheers.

Hear, hear! Welcome to the club.

I've reassembled a S107G from parts as well and it's quite a task to get everything soldered in correctly. Nice job on getting it flying again!

Originally Posted by majoraward

Awesome, I just happen to also have a worthless air hog sitting here and I was thinking about the need for speed for the S107 my wife also bought me for Christmas. I will have to look into this, I would like to take the air hog apart for sure I might as well get some fun out of it.

It really makes it fast. I used some heat shrink tubing I had in my parts bin to hold the motor more securely.

Originally Posted by Heli Pad

That's it? I was stumped by a broken wire? Two helicopters, similar problem?

I was beginning to theorize that perhaps the electrons in the nuclear dielectric wrap drive reactor might be getting ionized by the solar flare causing a misalignment and a pico voltage spike of some kind. LOL. I'm so full of it!

Glad that you found the problem and fixed it. Happy flying, mate.

I've got one back in the air! Can't get any juice to the front motor on #2, that ionizing theory must be the answer.
Thanks for your time,
bob

There is still hope for my hot air? Haha. Thanks. You seem like savvy around these things. Find the soldering pads for the motor in question. See if you could get any voltages to those pads. Chances are if your motor benched tested fine, there will be nothing at the pad. Otherwise, we have another broken wire.

If nothing gets to those pads, we have a serious problem with the board, don't you think? I have not yet seen a bad FET with this SYMA, but we've seen a fair share of these in the other threads. In essence, these FETs control the voltage delivered to the motors. When they are shorted, burnt, melted, power delivery is stopped. IIRC, there are two FETs located along the right side of the S107R5 board behind the power switch. They are black, rectangular, 3-legged SMD. Are they burnt, melted?

I'm almost at the end of the rope here. Because even if the FET are noticeably damaged, I'm not skill enough to repair them. Unless you could source and replace a FET, consider the board dead.

Anyway, I sincerely hope that I'm wrong and that you find another simple explanation and fix for your problem. Otherwise, you have two options: Either replace the board and get this bird flying, or make her a part donor to upkeep the other one.

Originally Posted by Heli Pad

There is still hope for my hot air? Haha. Thanks. You seem like savvy around these things. Find the soldering pads for the motor in question. See if you could get any voltages to those pads. Chances are if your motor benched tested fine, there will be nothing at the pad. Otherwise, we have another broken wire.

If nothing gets to those pads, we have a serious problem with the board, don't you think? I have not yet seen a bad FET with this SYMA, but we've seen a fair share of these in the other threads. In essence, these FETs control the voltage delivered to the motors. When they are shorted, burnt, melted, power delivery is stopped. IIRC, there are two FETs located along the right side of the S107R5 board behind the power switch. They are black, rectangular, 3-legged SMD. Are they burnt, melted?

I'm almost at the end of the rope here. Because even if the FET are noticeably damaged, I'm not skill enough to repair them. Unless you could source and replace a FET, consider the board dead.

Anyway, I sincerely hope that I'm wrong and that you find another simple explanation and fix for your problem. Otherwise, you have two options: Either replace the board and get this bird flying, or make her a part donor to upkeep the other one.

Tested at the pad nothing...parts bird.

guys,

would a green pcb board work in a s107 that had a R5 pcb board in..

this is on ebay uk.. The PCB You will receive is Green in Colour (makes no difference)

Unfortunately, all the green PCB I have encountered are fake S107s. They were incompatible with the Tx that controls a real S107R5.

this is a reply i had back about the green board..

Hi i was in the Syma Factory head quaters personally last years. Syma uses a lot of sub contractors and parts that sometimes are manufacturuerd by other companies when the is a surge in demand and their own factory and current suppliers cannot handle the load.
Shantou City
Ally
bathroomwarehouseuk-n-tings

Well, like I said, I have not encountered it. But it doesn't mean it could not happen. The first test that I would personally do, is to find another GENUINE SYMA S107 controller and try to operate this thing. If it works, great! Syma might have sub contracted out to another factory that uses green PCBs. If it doesn't however, the person that gave you the answer above is full of hot air - even more so than I am! Syma would surely not have two different schematics and circuit designs for the same product. It is simply a knock-off. And Ally is a big liar. Next time she opens up her mouth, moves her lips, or sends you any correspondence, do not believe her.

Secondly, could you please take a few pictures of this green board? I'd love to look at it. Even if you don't want to take your helicopter apart, just take a few snap shots of the what you can see with this board. As long as it is in focus, I'd be able to make something out of it. More importantly, I'd like to see if there is any writings on it. When the on/off switch, charge port, gyro, and IR receiver are located. Could you do that for me?

the board is on ebay pictured as a red 1 but description is for a green 1 as i said above, i will buy it as it is very very cheap about £1.50 UK or $2 US

Oh, I see, could you share the eBay link, or PM it to me? I promise I won't buy it.

As cheap as it is, what assurance do you have that it will actually work with a Syma controller? Are you just gonna place a 2 quid gamble? Nothing wrong with it. Am I hope that Ally is right about it.

Originally Posted by stude54ht

I've got one back in the air! Can't get any juice to the front motor on #2, that ionizing theory must be the answer.
Thanks for your time,
bob

Originally Posted by stude54ht

Tested at the pad nothing...parts bird.

correct me if im wrong, but dont both positive leads to the main drive motors get power off the same pad?


here are 2 pics i took from my 2 different s107s i ordered form a RC Toys Village. took the pics before i completely tore down each heli just in case i forgot where everything got soldered back on

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1609450062...84.m1439.l2648

try this HP or just look up pcb board under s107 in ebay uk the 1 thats £1.50

12ob

here is a photo i found