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Old Nov 21, 2014, 10:44 AM
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Aylesbury,UK
Joined Apr 2000
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Looks like you are going for a much better scale look St.Martin. I was wondering how much you could do with the airframe to scale it a bit better. Are you adding the balsa for strength along the edges or to improve the outline?
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Old Nov 21, 2014, 05:54 PM
Big gov never Works
St. Martin's Avatar
Skunk Water, Rhode Island
Joined Jul 2002
12,419 Posts
Hi Stuey! The balsa adds much strength and durability. I have glassed foam airplanes, and the grass will chew up the LE's of every surface. With the balsa, no glass is needed. The only glassing is the nose, wing joints and the intake bottom, back to and including the fan hatch.

But your correct, I was more after the scale outline improvement. I find the big mouth bass intake about the only flaw to this jet. Heck..even the ugly Eflite F-16 I had, used a scale type intake.

The deeper fuselage, in front of the intake, and the raised cockpit hatch, makes the fuselage seem less stretched out. Once the aux tanks are on, it will appear even better. Besides, since I'm not a speed type, I go for that "dirty" utilitarian look. Make it light enough and go for a good watts/lb ratio, and I'm happy.

I put tanks on most everything.

Fuzz
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Old Nov 22, 2014, 02:39 AM
Registered User
Aylesbury,UK
Joined Apr 2000
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Nice job on the A4. I see you are using silkspan and tissue rather than glass. I have used tissue on a couple of bits on my models. I now think to give a better surface and some strength it is probably something I will do more of. Its a lot easier to prep and needs a lot less coats of wbpu as there is no weave to fill. I would have thought lighter too. Perhaps not on the underside of a belly lander though, glass for that.
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Old Nov 22, 2014, 05:46 AM
Big gov never Works
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Skunk Water, Rhode Island
Joined Jul 2002
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We have a puzzle sealer, here in the USA, called Mod-Podg. What we call an aliphatic type resin(white glue), I believe you guy's call a PVA. Thinned up to 50% for after application coat(25% for silk-span application/50% for dry tissue) I have use WBU in this type of covering, but it does not have the shell hardness of the Mod-Podg.

And Mod-Podg dry sands well when using baby powder(talc) as a dry lube. But, you must get the matt finish product. Not gloss. Flat and or matt, always finishes easier. Even when using any WBU product, or even lacquer. Satin at the least.

The yellow domestic tissue I used requires use of small torn pieces. Because it is applied dry. And is over lapped. These overlaps disappear. There is a place in my blog how to feather the edges of the tissue or any paper type product.

And your correct, it is lighter over glass. But glass and finishing epoxy is still the most durable. After yrs of flying open structure tissue covered frames, I can live with the less durability for the lower weight. Less damage happens on the lower weight/slower landing frame.

Fuzz
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Old Nov 22, 2014, 07:52 AM
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Aylesbury,UK
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I see, so you use watered down aliphatic glue. As I understand it, it sands much better than the standard pva glues. Does it shrink the covering material as it dries?
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Old Nov 22, 2014, 02:50 PM
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Skunk Water, Rhode Island
Joined Jul 2002
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Actually, Mod-Podg is not an adhesive(glue). It is an aliphatic product, it is waterproof/resistant after cure. But unlike wood glue, it does not has the resin/strength adhesive qualities. It is a finish product. It get harder less flexable than adhesives. But...I use it to bond balsa lamination outlines, because it will permeate the wood.

Usually any waterbase product has some shrink. But kind of irrelevent for this application. What is important, is the water based products will relax the tissue to conform to the surface. Silk-span is easy to use in large sheet applications, because it stays pretty tough when wet. But tissue(other than the Japanese type, called domestic) has little strength when wet. So it must be applied dry and in smaller pieces.

Just use a foam brush and work from center out. If you do get a wrinkle, it will sand out after drying. But, give yourself time. It's all in conditioning yourself and developing the "touch". BTW, a little line chalk in the mixture will help sanding, too. It's like using talc in lacquer to make a sanding sealer.

Fuzz
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Old Nov 23, 2014, 05:44 PM
ks5p3r
United States, CA, Fullerton
Joined May 2013
376 Posts
Hay all It's been a while but I have my f16 set up just right,and it is on sale.$39 http://www.hobbypeople.net/index.php...r-fan-esc.html
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