Originally Posted by Isoprop

No. The USB connection goes thru a charging IC on the board.
I don't know what happens when 5V is applied to the "special" USB connection (record and charge), most probably thru resistors or a regulator. The battery circuitry is certainly not built for 5V. I haven't traced the "special" connection.

I believe the small protection circuit board that comes on each battery typically has over-voltage protection as well as a LVC to protect cell, but I wouldn't want to rely on it! And as you mentioned, that bypasses the desired CC-CV charge cycle provided by the IC on the camera circuit board. I'd be concerned most with the 5V stressing the rest of the camera circuit board components.

OK thanks guys - I may look at patching the 5V supply into the USB connection. Although I'd prefer not to kill it the camera is 'disposable' really. I have this one and another #11 that I never use any more (since I got a pair of #16s).

Originally Posted by Bill Glover

OK thanks guys - I may look at patching the 5V supply into the USB connection. Although I'd prefer not to kill it the camera is 'disposable' really. I have this one and another #11 that I never use any more (since I got a pair of #16s).

The USB is designed for 5V, so is a much better solution. As you most probably know, the #16 works with USB 5V without the internal battery connected

Hi to all,

I have problem with my camera 808-11-HD-Lens-DVR-Car-Keychain..., it`s only red LED working and nothing else.

So, the cause for not working is the fact that the CAM was accidently forgotten in the pocket in one of my clothes and put into the washing machine... After being washed i took out of housing the PCB and dry it, and after that the CAM worked normaly. But not for long, after 3-4 days it has stop working, only red LED "on" when on USB...

Status:

- only red LED on when on USB(battery Charging status, when battery full - LED "off")
- when on USB, the device or SD storage not recognized by PC, nothing happens
- LiPo is normaly charging when conected on USB
- voltage seems normal on PCB, on USB(4.88V), uSD (3.30V), IC`s (1.8-3.30V)

History on what had been done so far:

- all kind of combinations for "start-up", "ON"..., "reset then ON",... etc
- uploaded firmware FW96630A.bin (bought new same camera and uploaded same firmware, and CAM is working normaly)
- bought "WINBOND W25Q16BVSSIG" eeprom and replace it with the procedure described on http://g--labs.blogspot.com/ site

I don`t have any idea anymore what else to try, so i kindly ask you to give some hint or solution, or maybe similar expirience because the CAM still not working...

Best regards,

Matic

I have a 808 car key micro camera #16. I don't know how to access the configuration tool that the manual says it should have. I don't know how to adjust the correct time and date as well as the volume setting. I would appreciate any help in order to be able to fix my camera settings. Thanks in advance.

The #16 thread - read the first post, and faq that follow Mike

Originally Posted by ricardopr54

I have a 808 car key micro camera #16. I don't know how to access the configuration tool that the manual says it should have. I don't know how to adjust the correct time and date as well as the volume setting. I would appreciate any help in order to be able to fix my camera settings. Thanks in advance.

Disregard my last post. I already figured out how to fix my camera. Everything is now working normal. Thanks.

Thanks. I already figured out how to download the configuration tool application for this camera.

Originally Posted by citam

Hi to all,

I have problem with my camera 808-11-HD-Lens-DVR-Car-Keychain..., it`s only red LED working and nothing else.

So, the cause for not working is the fact that the CAM was accidently forgotten in the pocket in one of my clothes and put into the washing machine... After being washed i took out of housing the PCB and dry it, and after that the CAM worked normaly. But not for long, after 3-4 days it has stop working, only red LED "on" when on USB...

Status:

- only red LED on when on USB(battery Charging status, when battery full - LED "off")
- when on USB, the device or SD storage not recognized by PC, nothing happens
- LiPo is normaly charging when conected on USB
- voltage seems normal on PCB, on USB(4.88V), uSD (3.30V), IC`s (1.8-3.30V)

History on what had been done so far:

- all kind of combinations for "start-up", "ON"..., "reset then ON",... etc
- uploaded firmware FW96630A.bin (bought new same camera and uploaded same firmware, and CAM is working normaly)
- bought "WINBOND W25Q16BVSSIG" eeprom and replace it with the procedure described on http://g--labs.blogspot.com/ site

I don`t have any idea anymore what else to try, so i kindly ask you to give some hint or solution, or maybe similar expirience because the CAM still not working...

Best regards,

Matic

I suspect some other component was not properly dried and has now shorted. I take it you programmed the SPI before replacing it? Dumb question, but just to be certain. I don't know your soldering skills, but I also take it you replaced the SPI in the correct orientation and didn't overheat it if using a hot air soldering station?

If the firmware was running, even partially, you should get some indication of life. The red LED is controlled by the charger IC so has nothing to do with the rest of the circuit. At least it shows that the charging IC is working.
What happens without the lens ribbon cable connected? Still nothing?
When you connect the camera to the PC, does it get briefly recognized. It should, even if all the circuitry isn't working properly.

So long the yellow LED doesn't even blink, I suspect a hardware failure or corrupted firmware (in the SPI). You can measure most of the resistor and capacitor values on the board, but a few you will have to desolder to check. You can also check the transistors for short circuits. And are you sure you programmed the SPI with a valid dump?

I haven't tried it, but there are also three RS232 solder points on the board. The TX might give you additional information, but only if the firmware is running.

There is also a slight possibility that the CMOS module/cable is defective. If you have a spare module it would be easy to check.

Originally Posted by Isoprop

I suspect some other component was not properly dried and has now shorted. I take it you programmed the SPI before replacing it? Dumb question, but just to be certain. I don't know your soldering skills, but I also take it you replaced the SPI in the correct orientation and didn't overheat it if using a hot air soldering station?

If the firmware was running, even partially, you should get some indication of life. The red LED is controlled by the charger IC so has nothing to do with the rest of the circuit. At least it shows that the charging IC is working.
What happens without the lens ribbon cable connected? Still nothing?
When you connect the camera to the PC, does it get briefly recognized. It should, even if all the circuitry isn't working properly.

So long the yellow LED doesn't even blink, I suspect a hardware failure or corrupted firmware (in the SPI). You can measure most of the resistor and capacitor values on the board, but a few you will have to desolder to check. You can also check the transistors for short circuits. And are you sure you programmed the SPI with a valid dump?

I haven't tried it, but there are also three RS232 solder points on the board. The TX might give you additional information, but only if the firmware is running.

There is also a slight possibility that the CMOS module/cable is defective. If you have a spare module it would be easy to check.

RS232 solder points ... ???

Do you have a picture of these points ... I would be curious to see what it show on serial port

Originally Posted by e_lm_70

RS232 solder points ... ???

Do you have a picture of these points ... I would be curious to see what it show on serial port

Like I said, I haven't tried this on the new design. On the original #11 the points were situated at the edge of the board next to the processor. On the new design there are three points, instead of four, next to the processor. These look suspicious and could well be TX, RX and GND. If you have a TTL to RS232 converter you could try hooking up the TX (I'm sure it's one of them) and a ground point.

Originally Posted by Isoprop

I suspect some other component was not properly dried and has now shorted. I take it you programmed the SPI before replacing it? Dumb question, but just to be certain. I don't know your soldering skills, but I also take it you replaced the SPI in the correct orientation and didn't overheat it if using a hot air soldering station?

If the firmware was running, even partially, you should get some indication of life. The red LED is controlled by the charger IC so has nothing to do with the rest of the circuit. At least it shows that the charging IC is working.
What happens without the lens ribbon cable connected? Still nothing?
When you connect the camera to the PC, does it get briefly recognized. It should, even if all the circuitry isn't working properly.

So long the yellow LED doesn't even blink, I suspect a hardware failure or corrupted firmware (in the SPI). You can measure most of the resistor and capacitor values on the board, but a few you will have to desolder to check. You can also check the transistors for short circuits. And are you sure you programmed the SPI with a valid dump?

I haven't tried it, but there are also three RS232 solder points on the board. The TX might give you additional information, but only if the firmware is running.

There is also a slight possibility that the CMOS module/cable is defective. If you have a spare module it would be easy to check.

Isoprop, thanks for reply. I did the procedure of replacement as described on the site given above. Desolder with pro. solder station and accessories necessary for that kind of job. By the way i have daily work with the PCB`s on my job, and a lot of manual solder/desolder needed. So i think that kind of work was properly done, but never know - we`re only human, so mistakes allways possible . Regarding valid dump - it`s a great chance that the dump is not right one, tomorow when i go to work if there will be some free time i will use company profesional equipment and do some measurements... also remove ribbon cable and give it a try, and when pluged into USB there is no even so small indication of any activity, no blink of a LED, no PC status of a new device,... nothing at all. So tomorow if any free time, new measurements, for now i will paste some images of a module and those 4 pads for RX-TX levels...









Best Regards,

Matic

Here is my latest video from my #11

Now that I did find a good vibration free platform ... I think it is still quite good the #11 for his job.

Aerial Video - HobbyKing Quadcopter Frame V1 + KK2.0 + KeyCam #11 (0 min 0 sec)

As camera for feed my Video TX I'm using this ... http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...mp_420TVL.html ... it is as heavy as an AV cable from #18 to a video TX ... so ... not a big change

Tchuss

e_lm_70

Hello!

Im trying to repair my version 1 #11 camera.
Does someone know where pin6 from U10 is connected??
It's the clk-pin from the flashRom.

Maybe someone knows or has electrical diagrams from the #11 camera?!?!

Originally Posted by citam

Isoprop, thanks for reply. I did the procedure of replacement as described on the site given above. Desolder with pro. solder station and accessories necessary for that kind of job. By the way i have daily work with the PCB`s on my job, and a lot of manual solder/desolder needed. So i think that kind of work was properly done, but never know - we`re only human, so mistakes allways possible . Regarding valid dump - it`s a great chance that the dump is not right one, tomorow when i go to work if there will be some free time i will use company profesional equipment and do some measurements... also remove ribbon cable and give it a try, and when pluged into USB there is no even so small indication of any activity, no blink of a LED, no PC status of a new device,... nothing at all. So tomorow if any free time, new measurements, for now i will paste some images of a module and those 4 pads for RX-TX levels...

.....

NOTE to others: This is about the original #11 with the soldered lens module.

Unfortunately I can't remember what happens when the ribbon cable is removed, but I remember I had a terrible struggle to remove the cable from one of my cameras since the cable was additionally glued to the board! Most of the problems with the early #11s was due to a defective ribbon cable / contact, but your problem is different in that your camera suddenly stopped working after the water damage.

If you want, you can send me your dump and I'll try and verify if it's valid. You can also do this yourself if you have the different firmware versions and bootloaders. As you may be aware, the firmware is appended to the bootloader in the SPI dump.

I doubt very much that you will be able to source a spare lens module, and I doubt that an adapter for the new lens modules exists - if it did, that would be more than cool!