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Old Feb 19, 2007, 10:42 PM
Heli Pilot Wannabe...
Twidget II's Avatar
Raleigh, NC
Joined Nov 2005
38 Posts
Question
CX2 w/ Boom upgrade and others

Hi,
Well, following Klondikes awesome instructions my CX is flying better then ever. I can now do as I had read so many others doing... never thought it would be possible... I can take my hand off the controls for a good 10 secs and it just hovers there.
I have installed the Stersman Boom kit. I had to make a slight modification to the route that stabilizer ring takes. The instructions had it running through where the battery slides in but these DN Dover batteries I bought fit so tight that they would go in at all with that ring in there too so I routed them around the outside of the rear battery supports. Be nice if Stersman included a longer ring or if anyone knows where I can buy one please let me know.
I also installed alight kit that includes 2 nav lights, 2 strobes, and a tx controled landing light. It also includes a beeper that sounds when your battery voltage is low so you don't discharge your batteris. The strobes also go from flashing to solid to warn you its time to land.
I have upgraded to some of the aluminum parts. The Bearing Holder w/ Bearing, the Inner Shaft w/ Head/Hub, and the heat sink. Still waiting on the lower rotor holder and swashplate.
My main question is after installing the boom kit I noticed the heli was a bit nose heavy so it tended to fly forward. It didn't do this when I had the stock tail on (which I had on when I adjusted the swashplate). To add some weight in the back I stuck some old drill bits in the boom. That fixed it but I just wondered if it would be better to adjust the swashplate some more and eliminate the extra weight of the bits?
I still have some of the tail section on. I cut off the tail just forward of the stabilizer wing on the boom. That way I still have the wings for my nav lights and an upper section just behind the rotor for the upper strobe. Looks very cool. I will try to post a picture soon.

Thanks for all the help and advice... having a blast thanks to you all.
Twidget
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Old Feb 19, 2007, 10:45 PM
r/c heli noob
Sydney
Joined Jan 2007
138 Posts
I would have just changed the balljoint arm length from the pitch servo to the swashplate instead of adding weight. Check the CX2 thread for more tips.
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Old Feb 19, 2007, 11:03 PM
WHEN IN DOUBT FLOOR IT!!!
G-unit's Avatar
AZ
Joined May 2006
4,722 Posts
Hey don't put the batt all the way forward and get the cg wright and u will be all good.
have fun flying
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Old Feb 19, 2007, 11:19 PM
Heli Pilot Wannabe...
Twidget II's Avatar
Raleigh, NC
Joined Nov 2005
38 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by AusGeno
I would have just changed the balljoint arm length from the pitch servo to the swashplate instead of adding weight. Check the CX2 thread for more tips.
Have not tried that and I did just replace the fly bar after a recent crash so I will tray that.

Thanks!
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Old Feb 19, 2007, 11:21 PM
Heli Pilot Wannabe...
Twidget II's Avatar
Raleigh, NC
Joined Nov 2005
38 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by G-unit
Hey don't put the batt all the way forward and get the cg wright and u will be all good.
have fun flying
I tried that before adding the weight... had the battery sticking way out the rear and it still dipped toward the nose.

Thanks! I am having a BLAST flying...
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Old Feb 20, 2007, 12:16 AM
Crashin' n learnin'
klondikes's Avatar
Hopkinsville, KY
Joined Dec 2006
807 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Twidget II
I have installed the Stersman Boom kit. I had to make a slight modification to the route that stabilizer ring takes. The instructions had it running through where the battery slides in but these DN Dover batteries I bought fit so tight that they would go in at all with that ring in there too so I routed them around the outside of the rear battery supports. Be nice if Stersman included a longer ring or if anyone knows where I can buy one please let me know.
I have done the same routing of the ring with my stersman's boom, routing it around the outside of the battery supports, but find that it is long enough to work. I also have the band going over the top of the center blade where the band hooks and is pulled tight. Maybe your band is a little shorter than mine. With everything in place, the rear of the center blade on the boom is 3.5" from the boom mounting plate.

As for AusGeno's suggestion to change "the balljoint arm length from the pitch servo to the swashplate instead of adding weight", what he means is to do as you suggested and "adjust the swashplate some more and eliminate the extra weight of the bits". Let your trim controls be your guide and re-level the swashplate with the CF boom on the heli. That is what I have done and there do not appear to be any negative effects.

Can't wait to see your pics with the lights. Perhaps you can include info on where you got the lights and how you mounted them and connected them to power on the heli. Do they work well for telling you when the battery is approaching minimum discharge voltage?

Happy flying!

klondikes
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Old Feb 20, 2007, 09:30 AM
The Shadows are coming!
Sirion's Avatar
Glen Forrest, Western Australia
Joined Dec 2006
1,373 Posts
Yeah Twidget, details of your lights would be welcome . Are your landing lights the "Easylight" package from Dimension Engineering ?:

http://www.dimensionengineering.com/EasyLights.htm

These are twin ultra bright 10,000 mCD white LED's; plug into the 5th channel and are switchable; nominal 5V - OK 3.6V to 8.4V; weigh 4g/0.1oz; pull 80mA max. Currently on sale for US$11.99 + $1.00 shipping. Mine are coming any day.

What are the other lights you using for the nav and strobe/beeper assembly - that's a blast to be able to get the "come in" warning signal .
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Old Feb 20, 2007, 10:21 AM
Registered User
grapeflyer's Avatar
Oregon
Joined Dec 2006
49 Posts
question about lights

Where did you get your light kit?
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Old Feb 20, 2007, 11:22 AM
FNG-4-Life
Bossier City LA
Joined Jan 2007
181 Posts
When I did my own boom mod, I found that it was significantly lighter than the original vacuform body. I had to have the battery slid all the way aft to balance the heli the way its suposed to. The only way I was able to correct my balance was to add weight to my tail boom (8 inch piece of coat hanger wire inside the boom, Heli balanced just right, with the battery in the stock location)

I don't think you can properly adjust the swash unless your heli is balanced right. You will lose alot of control authority if your swash is not adjusted as close to perpendicular to the main shaft as possible. If you have to adjust the swash to have a rearward tilt to compensate for bad balance, that reduces the rearward control input you can use.
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Old Feb 20, 2007, 04:26 PM
Registered User
Joined Feb 2007
1 Posts
cool

Would love to hear about more about the lights. I was considering going to radio shack to see if I could find something.
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Old Feb 20, 2007, 06:13 PM
Heli Pilot Wannabe...
Twidget II's Avatar
Raleigh, NC
Joined Nov 2005
38 Posts
Hi Everyone,
Finally... here are some photos.
And to answer your questions on the lights. Here is a link to the guys website that made the lights for me:
http://www.tjtrc.com/LiPoV2.html

His email is:
ttran@hnbui.com

Here is a copy of exactly what I ordered via email from him:
A Simplified V2 LiGlow Kit with the following:
1 x 3mm Landing Light (White) Remotely Controlled
2 x Steady Lit NAV Lights (Red/Green)
1 x Strobe (White)
1 x Strobe (Blue)
1 x Beeper (83db Rating)
1 x Pre-made Battery Adapter
Total Cost $45.00 + $5.00 + $4.50 = $54.50

You can get a brighter Landing Light (a 10mm) which in his words would light a room so I went witht he smaller light since it is mainly just for looks and fun. It is controled from the tx and the kit came with the plug to just plug it into the chan 5 spot on the 4in1.

He also made me the Battery Adapter at my request that just had a male battery plug on one end and a female on the other with the lights connected between so I did even have to do any soldering or splicing, just plugged them in and off I went.

When the battery gets down to the threshold which is above the 3 volt limit the strobes actually stop strobing and become steady lit to tell you its time to land. I asked for the beeper because I thought what if I can't see the strobes in daylight but believe me, those suckers are bright and since I tend to fly close by you can't miss them. If you go without the beeper you can get one more strobe instead. Of course I have no idea where I would mount another strobe so I am still glad I went with the beeper.

He takes paypal and we very prompt to respond to email and had the lights to me in a little over a week. Took a little longer because he needed to get more parts he said. I highly recommend his work.

Thanks...
Twidget
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Old Feb 20, 2007, 06:14 PM
Heli Pilot Wannabe...
Twidget II's Avatar
Raleigh, NC
Joined Nov 2005
38 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pondafarr
When I did my own boom mod, I found that it was significantly lighter than the original vacuform body. I had to have the battery slid all the way aft to balance the heli the way its suposed to. The only way I was able to correct my balance was to add weight to my tail boom (8 inch piece of coat hanger wire inside the boom, Heli balanced just right, with the battery in the stock location)

I don't think you can properly adjust the swash unless your heli is balanced right. You will lose alot of control authority if your swash is not adjusted as close to perpendicular to the main shaft as possible. If you have to adjust the swash to have a rearward tilt to compensate for bad balance, that reduces the rearward control input you can use.
What you say makes sense and since the heli is flying so well now without messing with the swashplate anymore I am leary to change it so I think I will remove the drills bits and try your idea of a coat hanger. I like that idea.

Thanks!
Twidget
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Old Feb 21, 2007, 07:04 AM
21st Century Space Cowboy
TachyonDriver's Avatar
Chipping, Lancs, UK
Joined Oct 2006
2,935 Posts
SWEET!! looking heli Twidget... but... erm the red & green nav lights should be swapped around: Red = port (left side), green = starboard

Tach.
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Old Feb 21, 2007, 07:31 AM
Heli Pilot Wannabe...
Twidget II's Avatar
Raleigh, NC
Joined Nov 2005
38 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by TachyonDriver
SWEET!! looking heli Twidget... but... erm the red & green nav lights should be swapped around: Red = port (left side), green = starboard

Tach.
Ack!
I thought it was the other way around...
Oh well... I looked on the web for placement of strobes on real heli's and could never find anything so I went with red/right, green/left, white/top, and blue bottom.
Too much of a pain to move at this point. The light really do help with the orientation when flying in dim or dark light. Flown several times in my garage with the lights off. Awesome and nerve racking!

Thanks for the info on the correct placement Tach!

Twidget
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Old Feb 21, 2007, 07:53 AM
21st Century Space Cowboy
TachyonDriver's Avatar
Chipping, Lancs, UK
Joined Oct 2006
2,935 Posts
Hehe that's why I tried to let you down gently Don't let anyone else fly your heli in the dark! They may think the heli's coming instead of going.... Nasty!

Tach.
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