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Old Mar 14, 2015, 04:00 PM
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Mini-HowTo
Adjustable Electronic Gyro

I made a little video showing you how you can make an adjustable gyro, I had a hard time finding this information so I sent Bernhard a message and he pointed me in the right direction.

Power split from the brushless esc to a switch to a brushed esc that drives the e gyro. Connect the brushed esc to your 3rd/4th channel on your radio, and adjust away!

Its debatable on how useful it would be, but in theory you use your program mix to have variable rpm of the gyro, the spin up/down times are pretty long so its not super useful. I found this gyro was little too strong for where I was using it so having the option to dial it back/up is awesome.

Adjustable electronic gyro ARX 540 RC Dirtbike (1 min 30 sec)
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Old Mar 16, 2015, 02:04 AM
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Hi Drew!

So you found a brushed ESC that works with the gyro ESC, good!

Now tuck it all into the bike, and see how the handling changes with different speed settings.

Spinning up on slow corners and down on fast corners sounds good, but I don't think it is worth the effort.
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Old Mar 16, 2015, 09:01 PM
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If you apply Drag Brake while On Throttle then the fly wheel will slow down while on power. When the throttle position is neutral the ESC should apply power to the motor again. When the throttle position is braking the ESC throttle should be at 100%.

If the fly wheel is light you can use full brake for fast action but you must watch the amps. Otherwise use drag brake so the fly wheel has some RPM to start again which will lower the amp load.

Also measure the Amps and make sure to use a light fuse inline to protect the ESC while testing. The fly wheel can be lighter to reduce the amp load. The hard part will be during braking as the throttle goes to 100% the amps will spike. Watch wire and motor temps too. Make sure the solder connections are good on your plugs or hard wired connections as this can be a point of failure with high amps changing rapidly.

Good luck testing
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Old Mar 17, 2015, 02:54 AM
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I did pack it in and give it a shake down across the street at the park, med grass, and paved walking path, everything was partially damp. Spent over an hour on clean up and an hour more fixing the leaky rear damper.

The front forks are rather finicky and bind easily, I redid them as well, they are sensative to the axle grub screws and don't want to be tightened properly or they stick. I will try to leave them looser than what precaution prescribes but add lock tight and see where that goes.

The 2500 mah batteries I'm using drained pretty fast, the gyro kicks on at -18 on channel 3 and I started running it at 30 and reduced it to 18 by the time i spent 5000mah, that really means nothing to anyone but me I think, I basically tuned it by picking up rear and applying some twist and turn and tuned it by feel in my hands plus shake down on the 2 surfaces.

Im not running any crash bars, but the bike didn't seem to mind it stands up just fine. I will continue to test with static settings and see where my low end point feels comfortable with lean and stability. After more piloting time i will start thinking about making it dynamic as you prescribed. I was not thinking the brushed esc could actually brake the fly wheel, I only thought of it as acting on, or more on it's the factory arx flywheel I haven't actually taken the wheel apart to peek inside yet, they are rather heavy I'd imagine, too much to be spooling it up and down as i think would be ideal? maybe not? I have limited experience with this business so far but that's not stopping me from a head first dive.

Thanks for the suggestions and precautions, what is the acceptable amp draw range, and where am I reading them? should I add a cap to the brushed esc? Fuse between the battery and the esc or the esc and the gyro? Does it matter? I think my solder is good, just need to move to phase 2 and heat shrink them, glad I didn't before taking these readings, I have no way of logging this information, is it acceptable/usefull to measure on the bench with no loads?

Sorry I opened a few worm cans here, and I appreciate your time and interest.

More to come I hope, so many projects going on right now
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Old Mar 17, 2015, 10:20 AM
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Im confused. The arx has a gyro esc in the wheel that spools up the gyro. Only power through the swingarm gets into that wheel. How did you get power and control into the wheel?
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Old Mar 17, 2015, 10:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnnyMc View Post
Only power through the swingarm gets into that wheel. How did you get power and control into the wheel?
By adding a second brushed esc in the chassis, the swing arm wires get hooked up that 2nd esc and that 2nd esc hooks up to your 3rd channel on the receiver basically giving you a second throttle to drive the gyro motor instead of an off/on behavior. Does that make sense?
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Old Mar 17, 2015, 12:27 PM
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Just seems weird I guess. I think brushless gyro requires 3 wires to control that from inside, so how is that possible with a brushed esc with 2 wires from outside? Brushed esc does it by controlling flow of power to gyro esc?
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Old Mar 17, 2015, 01:40 PM
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I understand your confusion now, my initiating question to Bernhard was how to adjust the gyro rpm, and if the gyro could handle 11.1v power directly connected. He suggested this solution, as I stated I could not find this info and frankly this solution seems superior if the alternative is to open the wheel to adjust the rpm, he also said a servo tester could be used to adjust the rpm.

I believe you are correct in concluding the esc controls the flow but if there is an additional brushless esc inside I'm not sure what the additional if any considerations should be made, as I stated I haven't looked inside the wheel yet as I didn't think there was a need to.
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Old Mar 18, 2015, 02:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnnyMc View Post
Just seems weird I guess. I think brushless gyro requires 3 wires to control that from inside, so how is that possible with a brushed esc with 2 wires from outside? Brushed esc does it by controlling flow of power to gyro esc?
The brushless gyro inside the wheel always runs full power.
So the only way to control it, is to control how much voltage it gets through the swing arm.

This is done with the second (brushed) ESC.
Depending on how much "throttle" you apply to that ESC, it gives a specific voltage to the swingarm.

I just thought it would be more difficult to get the brushless ESC to start, since the output of the brushed ESC is usually a chopped signal, but it seems it can handle that.
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Old Mar 19, 2015, 02:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gartenzwerg View Post

So the only way to control it, is to control how much voltage it gets through the swing arm.

I just thought it would be more difficult to get the brushless ESC to start, since the output of the brushed ESC is usually a chopped signal, but it seems it can handle that.
I think this kind of pulsed power to brushless esc will lead on overheating for gyro esc due to the periods gyro motor idles and pushes current to its own esc.

I always thought this kind of swingarm must be removed from any bike due to the risk of shortcircuiting batteries as soon as external anodized layed is chipped by stones, but you decided to keep it so....

.... good luck

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