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Old Mar 12, 2014, 01:34 PM
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yes give it a bit too finish drying, then wet sand!

and yes putting a rattle can in warm water or as I would say "coffee hot" helps thin the paint down, and makes it come out a lot smoother, and more consistent!
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Old Mar 12, 2014, 02:39 PM
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Maine
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I pressurized the can with good results. It sprayed a lighter pattern, and with this Rust_Oleum 2X, a lighter pattern is definitely a plus.

More pics to come...
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Old Dec 31, 2014, 02:32 PM
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Well, it's been a while, but I'm back to working on the Corsair. After a lot of trial and error with painting this Doculam, I've discovered that Rustoleum cleared with one rather heavy wet coat of Minwax Helmsman Spar Urethane is the best way to paint and fuel proof Doculam.

Now, I'm on to hinging the surfaces. Because the surfaces are already painted, the hinges will be attached over the paint (the covering will be left clear). Trust me, I was unsure about this, too, but a test proved that the bond is very very strong.

I intend to use Mark's (batjac's) method of hinging, so I'm searching for a way to seal the edges from the fuel. I've read about using polyurethane sprays and other spray-can methods, but I don't want to clear the entire wing.

Does anyone have a preferred way of fuel-proofing decals edges (or, in this case, hinges)? Fingernail polish?

Thanks,
KP
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Old Jan 07, 2015, 11:47 PM
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Work on the Corsair is plugging along. The decals were laid on tonight, making her look so much more like the warbird she is, and the surfaces (ailerons and elevator) are hinged.

Next is the clear coat to seal the decals and hinges and then assembly.

I will try to post pictures Thursday...

KP
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Old Jan 10, 2015, 10:05 PM
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Yesterday, I managed to get a cold and get over the worst of it...all in one day. In general, I don't have too much to complain about! Anyway, below are the pictures I promised.

I know the covering is less that beautiful, but my experience with Doculam has been rewarding and I'm excited to give it another [less bubbly] go on the next build.

The next steps are to glue the empennage together, drill the holes and insert the blind nuts for the wing mount, cut out the canopy, and mount the engine. I haven't decided if I want to run the engine again before putting it in place, but I'm leaning that way.

Things are plugging along nicely...

KP
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Old Jan 13, 2015, 11:06 PM
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I've been working little by little the last two days. The tail has been assembled and it looks fairly straight. I have a bit of right rudder, maybe a bit too much. It looks to be about 2 degrees right--better than left?? If you wouldn't mind looking at the pictures below to tell me what you all think, I'd be grateful?

I've also cleaned up the canopy (some of the paint leaked beneath the tape) and trimmed it to fit. She really starts to look like a Corsair with the new canopy in place! I will mount it solidly tomorrow as soon as I pick up the right size screws. Of course, in a workshop full of hardware, I couldn't find the size I need.

Lastly, I have the engine mounted up and will run it tomorrow or the next day. Forgive the nasty mount; at least it's better than the one I posted here! I really do need a better mount for these size engines. What do you all use?

KP
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Last edited by kpriddle; Jan 13, 2015 at 11:11 PM.
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Old Jan 29, 2015, 10:20 PM
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United States, FL, Hastings
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I gotta say, your Corsair is looking fantastic. I had the Simple Series AT-6 growing up, and finished it as far as getting the airframe done and covered (just like the box art), and then my Tee Dee .09 mounted, but then got rid of it when I left RC for awhile. Still have the plans around somewhere. Oh, how I wish I had another Simple Series; they were quite fun, and almost relaxing to build.

Good luck with yours.. it should be a nice flyer.

Also, with the -2 degrees on the rudder, in my experience at least, it should be ok. My 1/2a SST has almost the same rudder offset, and it even seemed to help counter the engine torque a bit, and I never noticed any appreciable crab angle in flight. I added a functioning rudder recently, and even with that, my rudder is still trimmed at 0 degrees in relation to my stab and it tracks straight as far as I can discern. If anything it will roll the plane somewhat if the rudder is too far offset due to the wings dihedral, but should be easily countered with some aileron trim. Worse comes to worse, after an initial trim flight, if it proves to be too much you could always cut it loose and reset.
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Last edited by Condor84; Jan 29, 2015 at 10:30 PM.
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