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Old Mar 27, 2015, 12:34 PM
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What brand / size motor and esc do you replace you Sensei with?
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Old Mar 27, 2015, 07:16 PM
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sensei flyzone

I have 100 s of flights on this plane, one mishap, I flew into a 15 foot tree , only broke the prop! I have had trouble dropping parachute from drop door as it would get hung up on the inside door opening/closing mechanism. Any ideas how to overcome this would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Tony
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Old Mar 27, 2015, 08:39 PM
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Hey Tony,
Waay back somewhere on this thread, I posted a pic of the plastic cover I made for the servo & linkage to prevent cargo from getting caught/hung-up inside the bay. Epoxied in place. Here's another pic....

Denny
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Old Mar 28, 2015, 05:45 AM
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A current review of this plane is in the April 2015 Ampeer.
http://www.theampeer.org/ampeer/ampapr15/ampapr15.htm

The new version, with the WISE system, should be available soon.
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Old Apr 06, 2015, 08:08 PM
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Rebuild

Hello Sensei owners. I would like some advice on rebuilding the nose. Took a dive while on take off. Suggestions???
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Old Apr 06, 2015, 08:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tsmith9000 View Post
Hello Sensei owners. I would like some advice on rebuilding the nose. Took a dive while on take off. Suggestions???
I shaved the nose off about 1 inch from the lip and epoxied a ply firewall on. Used a motor with an X mount and screwed it to the firewall. Amount you cut off is based on length of new motor. Put the cowl back and you'll never know the difference.

Didn't even change the balance and flys great.

Hope this helps,
Jimmy
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Old Apr 06, 2015, 09:25 PM
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Ok I will try that. I did notice the the rest is not exactly straight. Take a look. Notice the battery door.
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Old Apr 07, 2015, 08:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tsmith9000 View Post
Hello Sensei owners. I would like some advice on rebuilding the nose. Took a dive while on take off. Suggestions???
Sorry about your mishap - the nose looks pretty mashed. RescueJim suggested cutting off the nose and rebuild a new firewall. If you go that route take a look at post# 858 on page 58.

URL: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=858

If you go this route I think I would go with a metal adjustable universal motor mount. I know HeadsUp Rc have them. That way you could use various motors if you chose to repower.

Once you get the old nose structure cut loose you may be able to get the battery box area straightened out. Anyway, goodluck and post your results.

Roger
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Old Apr 15, 2015, 07:48 PM
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Work in progress

Still working out the final steps. I need to increase the motor mount length to get the cowl back on. Here is what I have done so far. If anyone can recommend a motor that can use the original esc, that would help.
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Old Apr 15, 2015, 11:50 PM
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Hi TS!

You have done a nice job fashioning that motor mounting plate - it looks good.

Some folks have gone with a 480 series motor for a little more power but usually only two of the four holes will line up with the motor mount. But so far no one has reported any problems with only the 2 screw mount. I re-powered but chose to go with a 450 series motor that matched all four holes and gives about the same performance as the original motor.

I have been using Firepower motors from Heads UP RC in Florida. They are a reliable hobby shop with real live support.

The motor I am currently using is a Firepower 450 (28-36-09) 900 kv motor with a 10 X 5E APC prop. The plane has plenty of power for slow casual flying. Fits my age group.

Here is a url to the online Heads UP page: http://www.headsuphobby.com/Firepowe...otor-E-645.htm

Also here is a url for the 480 series others in this thread have used.

http://www.headsuphobby.com/Firepowe...otor-E-640.htm

In either case you will be able to use your original ESC according to the test data on the motor pages.

Good luck and it looks like you have a good handle on the rebuild.

Roger
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Old Apr 16, 2015, 06:11 AM
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Hi TS, The 1/4" ply firewall looks great! One way to extend the motor mount would be to use nylon spacers. A variety of lengths and diameters are available at your local hardware store. To accommodate the additional offset you will need longer screws. It would be better if you used a #4 blind nut and bolt with blue thread lock to attach the motor mount to the plywood. You could also eliminate the motor mount (which has a tendency to bend) and use the X-mount that comes with the motor and nylon spacers to get the proper distance to accommodate your cowl. Good luck.

Regards,

Dennis
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Old Apr 17, 2015, 02:03 AM
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here's a link to some motor mounts that may work.
http://www.electrifly.com/miscproducts/motormounts.html
I've just set mine up using the stock mount with a Himax 3516 840 and a ZTW Mantis 45A ESC. Weather permitting, test flight is tomorrow.
cheers
mike
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Old Apr 17, 2015, 04:04 PM
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Got the Sensei to get back into the hobby after 20 years. Biggest problem is slowing down too much on landing approach. The nose gear has taken the brunt of these landings. Noticed that the nose gear was a bit sloppy and found out that the steering arm had cracked at the set screw. Replaced the arm with a DuBro one I had and shortened it to fit. The rudder servo gear also failed and replaced it with a metal gear servo like many have done.

Hadn't seen any power measurements of the Sensei. Measured the power on the stock set-up with my wattmeter. With a nearly fully charged battery, output is 277.1 watts giving 86.6 watts/pound. Using a battery that I had used after a flight (80% used), the output was 194.7 watts giving 60.8 watts/pound (probably a good time to land). At 20% left the battery voltage is 9.54 Vdc (3.18 volts/cell). Static measurement was 3.75 Vdc. Looks like that guidelines to use only 80% of battery capacity may be good practice because during use the battery, in this case, has reached nominal 3.2 Volt/cell. Based on these numbers the stock Sensei has more than adequate power for its job. Of course, there are those who will want more power. More power to them.

Bud
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Last edited by Bud42; Apr 17, 2015 at 04:07 PM. Reason: typo
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Old Apr 18, 2015, 09:14 PM
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Bud,

You picked a good plane to warm up on. The Sensei is a good flyer and you have probably already noticed it likes to glide. Your measurements under load are interesting. I have only recorded static values.

I have found that I will have used about 75% of my battery's "rated " capacity with about a 1.25 voltage drop. I realize the rated capacity is probably not an accurate value. But it gives me a point of reference on the flight times I can expect out of my batteries.

Welcome to the thread and enjoy that Sensei. If you do decide to go for "More Power" it can be a lively airplane.

Roger
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Old Apr 19, 2015, 05:47 PM
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Gear switch not opening drop door.

I set up dual rates tied to my aileron switch and an elevator aileron mix and rudder aileron mix. Now the gear switch in't opening the drop door. There is power to the server but no control of the open close function.

I am using a dx6i and this is my first forey into setting dual rates and using mixes.

Thanks
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