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Old Dec 03, 2012, 10:52 PM
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Depending on the mixing abilities of your TX you could have a 'complex' sequence of that inner doors close and open with regards to motor, as well as 'master over-ride' by the main gear actuation.
But I think that level of mixing 'stacking' would exceed most TXes abilities.
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Old Dec 04, 2012, 01:28 AM
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Originally Posted by v8truckin View Post
I think they may be for the canopy back end to help stop the back end from lifting. Although mine didn't come with any magnets and doesn't have that problem.
+1, I concure
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Old Dec 04, 2012, 02:32 AM
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+1, I concure
I thought maybe they were included for canopy insurance, although here are no cut outs for them. Since you guys aren't having canopy problems, I'll use them for the flipper doors. Thanks
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Old Dec 04, 2012, 03:17 AM
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OK... Houston, we have a problem. I installed the PZ-V2 retracts and just now had the opportunity to power up everything. Both mains now have a bit more forward cant and this is causing the tires to rub on the leading edge of the wheel well during retraction. Also a bigger problem is that the right main has way too much toe in caused by the location or cut of the flat spots on the strut pin (I think) which causes (other than the obvious directional control problems) the wheel to sit in the well at such an angle as to prevent the inner door from closing. It also causes the outer gear door to be at an angle to the strut such that it rubs the tire. For the excess forward cant I thought maybe putting some washers under the leading edge of the gear mount might fix that problem. As for the out of wack toe in, I am at a loss of how to address that. Other than making or getting new pins. Maybe I should swap pins to try to verify the problem is the pin. Help!?

Aaron
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Old Dec 04, 2012, 03:19 AM
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Originally Posted by mcfast View Post
You know what would be real neat, for those gear doors, like the real Mustang
when the motor is not running, doors open and as soon as the motor spin they close, now that would be cool.
I have something like that, though not coupled to motor rpm. I have assigned a switch on my TX to throttle hold, flaps and inner gear doors down. So a cool 'display' mode.
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Old Dec 04, 2012, 03:24 AM
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Regarding the version discussions: I have ordered and received a new set of wings for my FF version Mustang. They showed up with the new alu wingspar and adjusted gear bays to fit the PZ-V2 retracts.

I also ordered a set of stickers for the FF verision: I noticed there's also a sticker for the killmarks on it!

Regarding motors, do you guys think it's worth upgrading to the newer 300kv motor?
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Old Dec 04, 2012, 08:08 AM
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Aaron,

Yes I would recommend add washers in the 2 front screws of both retracts to alleviate the rubbing. Just don't add to much or your gear doors will not shut all the way and you might negate your forward rake. Also you can try to trim a lil of foam off from the area that the tire is rubbing with a sharp x-acto, just don't take off too much. I did both to my gear area and its fine. Also if you want to get rid of about 5* of toeing add 2mm of washers to the inside screws of the retract that is having the toe in problem, just be careful if you add washers for both problems. You may wanna try cutting a lil foam 1st to alleviate the rubbing and then adding washers to the inside screws to get rid of the toeing and then if it's fine you won't need to worry about washers for rubbing.
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Old Dec 04, 2012, 08:10 AM
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Originally Posted by condor12 View Post
I thought maybe they were included for canopy insurance, although here are no cut outs for them. Since you guys aren't having canopy problems, I'll use them for the flipper doors. Thanks
Welp the canopy problem was alleviated by adding the esc vent mod to allow air to escape and not push the canopy up with air pressure. Also the amount of travel you have on the rear vent can play a factor also.
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Old Dec 04, 2012, 11:32 AM
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v8,

Shimming the leading edge of the retracts should help the rubbing issue there but, I do not see how shimming the inside screws will effect the toe in. That seems to be strictly a function of the flat spots on the strut pins. The only things that I can think of that will address that are to either alter the flat spots on the pins that came with the PZ-V2s or grind new flat spots in the old pins that have no flat spots in the needed locations. They would need to be very precise grindings and I am not real confident about accomplishing that.

Aaron
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Old Dec 04, 2012, 11:52 AM
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Ahh I see what your saying about the toeing in of the wheels, Not the whole oleo strut . Ya different problem.

How much toe in do you have, is it just slop, or does it toe in on taxi?

I had to re-file my flat spot.

If it's play/wiggle then what I did was replace the grub screw with a socket head set screw on the oleo that holds it to the 5mm pin and a dab of CA. Hasn't budged a bit since I did that 2 mo. ago.
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Old Dec 04, 2012, 01:27 PM
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It is not slop, yet... I am a bit concerned about that based on how the grub screws are working already. One of my pins is just way off. The toe in is ridiculous. The other side is OK. I will try regrinding the flat spots. Wish me luck!

Aaron
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Old Dec 04, 2012, 01:45 PM
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If you have no slop then grind the flat spot that sits in the trunnion. If you do it on the oleo to 5mm pin it'll only cause you problems if not done right and the no slop will turn into slop. However on the trunnion flat spots you have 2 of em and wanna make sure you get those right. Pick your poison.
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Old Dec 04, 2012, 02:42 PM
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Originally Posted by v8truckin View Post
If you have no slop then grind the flat spot that sits in the trunnion. If you do it on the oleo to 5mm pin it'll only cause you problems if not done right and the no slop will turn into slop. However on the trunnion flat spots you have 2 of em and wanna make sure you get those right. Pick your poison.
Yup. Definitely needs to be at the trunnion! Also, speaking of slop, anybody have flutter issues? The control surface linkages seem to be a bit sloppy too.

Aaron
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Old Dec 04, 2012, 05:50 PM
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Originally Posted by v8truckin View Post
Welp the canopy problem was alleviated by adding the esc vent mod to allow air to escape and not push the canopy up with air pressure. Also the amount of travel you have on the rear vent can play a factor also.
The canopy is quite firm. If it loosens up I can fit BM's popsicle stick mod. Both underside vents have good travel so I"m not expecting problems. Ta
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Old Dec 04, 2012, 06:11 PM
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Yup or popsicle mod will do.

Probably gonna do the magnets to the doors also.
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