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Old May 24, 2013, 04:00 PM
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Gartenzwerg's Avatar
Austria
Joined Jan 2007
660 Posts
Build Log
ARx 540 Pro eGyro - My Modifications for 2013

Since I have some time on my Hands, I thought I give a quick look around my ARx Pro Bike, and it's Modifications.

It was a long winter, and after 3 hard seasons, it was time to modify the old bike a little.
The goal was to improve the stability and reliability of the Bike, nothing else.
The handling was perfect already, enough Power, so nothing to do there.

Please have a look at the Pics, to see the numbers I'm talking about:

1) In hard crashes, the original Steering holders moved up or down.
Reinforced parts, that interlock like the plastic parts of the Base Version are available, and now in my Bike:
You can see them here:
http://rc-motorradshop.de/produkte/p...ilder/?AR-X091

2) Reinforced lower Triple: To prevent the forks from twisting, and because the thread of the screw for the front guard was ripped away on the old part.
Again, you can see the part here:
http://rc-motorradshop.de/produkte/p...ilder/?AR-X090

3) Steering: Strong Servo (from KoPropo in this Case)
Springs: These are the original springs (not the newer, progressive style springs), covered under a front fork spring, that has been cut in half.
Basically, we took one of these:
http://rc-motorradshop.de/produkte/p...ilder/?AR-X058
Cut it in half, and squeezed them on the original steering setup. Trim the Body, so it doesn't catch anything when steering.
Works a treat.

4) Wheelie Bar: Everybody needs one.
This one is my design, milled from 2mm GRP.
I used a 3mm Screw as axle, and 2 Mini-Z Wheels. This bent pretty bad, so this year I upgraded to 4mm Screw, and a Wheel from my Robitronic Scalpel.

5) Handlebar: You don't want to loose the Grip in race situations, so I drilled small holes and use clips to keep the hands on the bars. (I think I saw Antonio doing that, a few years ago)

6) Speed controller: Since 2 Seasons, I run an Mtroniks G2 Ride.
Waterproof, 120Amps, Setting Card - everything included.
It's very important to turn all the power settings down, to make the Bike driveable. If not, you have way too much power in the turns, the bike starts to wobble, and everything gets hot.
Once I had the settings done, this thing never missed a beat, and everything keeps cool.

7) ARs 5000kV Motor, running an 11t Pinion. I usually try to run small pinions, to make sure it can cope with some added drag from broken Bearings, Leaves, Grass, Mud, whatever..

8) Cable Cover to hide the Cables to the eGyro. One of our local drivers has a similar system, using an aluminium angle. I looked at that, and designed something that follows the form of the swing arm. I had to drill and tap two holes, to mount the Cover.

9) The most significant change this year: New designed Motor mount for the original eGyro. Using this, I can mount the original AR eGyro on the rear axle of the mechanical Gyro (which is NOT split in half), and use the old golden Swing arm as well, which is more massive, and does not use a plastic part to hold the lower damper pin.

As first step I simply routed the plus and minus cable of the Gyro ESC out of the rear wheel.
It is also possible to remove the Gyro ESC from the rear wheel, and route the 3 Gyro motor cables out of the rear wheel, to a separate ESC (which can be controlled from the Radio).
I may do this on my second rear Wheel, but have to get another Gyro Motor first, since one is broken at the moment.

I ran the Bike in this configuration for one Battery so far, and everything seems to hold up excellent.

We'll have to see how the parts work in real racing conditions!

On the last two pics, you can see an original (black) eGyro Mount, on the split rear axle, and my Motor mount on the non-split rear axle.

You can take a closer look at the 3D parts here:
http://www.shapeways.com/designer/Gzwg

These were the first 3d Parts I really designed by myself, and I have to say it was not that easy - I think I started about 10-15 times from scratch, for each part. But in the end, when everything comes together, and it works, it's a good feeling!

If you have any questions, feel free!
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Old May 24, 2013, 05:54 PM
RC Dirt Bike Action
JohnnyMc's Avatar
California central coast
Joined Feb 2010
1,792 Posts
Great post Bernhard. Very nice how you made your own parts to use a solid axle. Hope they work out. For your wheelie bar, you used GRP - is that same as stuff called Garolite (G10) type of fiberglass? What diameter are those Robitronic Scalpel wheels?

I think you need to record video of some testing to make sure bike is working. You live close to Fehring track? Its been over a year since anyone has seen an arx on a dirt track, so Im sure the arx owners could use some inspiration!
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Old May 26, 2013, 06:10 AM
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Gartenzwerg's Avatar
Austria
Joined Jan 2007
660 Posts
I have to say, I can't really tell you much about the material. I don't have the machines, so I just created a dxf file, and sent it to another fellow hobbyist at the other end of the country, whom I sometimes help with electronic things. He milled it, from material he had. It was that slightly yellow stuff, typical grp colour..
That Material is about 2-2,5 mm thick, but It holds for more than 2 Seasons now.

The wheel is taken from a 1/18 Scalpel Car, front wheel. It measures about 30 mm in Diameter, and is 15mm wide.

Fehring is not that close to me, about 2,5 hours drive.
To be honest, I don't have much time between the races, and most of the Buggy Tracks are no fun to use with a Bike (we all know that).
I'll try to take the Camera with me, if I find the time.
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Old Jun 17, 2013, 01:43 PM
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Two questions for you:
- Most important, I read over in the motorrad forum that the alpen cup is this upcoming weekend (June 22-23), so is that still going to happen and are you going to make it?
- For your side crash bars, what size nylon rod do you use?
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Old Jun 18, 2013, 02:04 AM
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Gartenzwerg's Avatar
Austria
Joined Jan 2007
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Yes, Alpen Cup starts on Saturday - I'm already charging Batteries and packing things up (removing the Onroad-Parts, and trying not to forget any important Offroad-Spareparts)

The Crash Bars are the original AR Racing ones - 4mm Diameter
http://rc-motorradshop.de/produkte/p...ilder/?AR-X035

They are stiffer/harder than any other material I have, but still don't break. And they last very long, as long as they are not used on the road. Some guys drilled the bar holders to 6mm, and use (cheaper) 6mm Nylon Rods - seems to work equally well.
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Old Jun 18, 2013, 02:47 AM
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United Kingdom, Walsall
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I use 6mm too because its cheap.
Does anyone else struggle to get black?
I can only find white.
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Old Jun 18, 2013, 11:13 AM
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If your desperate you can dye your white ones black lol.
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Old Jun 18, 2013, 11:49 AM
MY '75 CZ "FALTA REPLICA" 2010
TopDave's Avatar
Waterford, Michigan
Joined May 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Syncro View Post
I use 6mm too because its cheap.
Does anyone else struggle to get black?
I can only find white.
Black at McMaster Carr.com
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Old Jun 18, 2013, 12:22 PM
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United Kingdom, Walsall
Joined Mar 2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnnyMc View Post
If your desperate you can dye your white ones black lol.
I use my ARX quite a lot on Tarmac so they don't last that long so hardly seems worth the bother of dying them.
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Old Jun 23, 2013, 06:00 PM
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Espaņa, CL, Ávila
Joined Sep 2008
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If you run your ARX on tarmac, why donīt you switch to a wheel slider setup instead of nylon crashbars?

Iīm so happy about mine, more than a dozen weekend practice tests and nothing to replace yet.

In fact, Iīve destroyed two swingarm shafts but no issues about the side wheels.
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Old Jun 24, 2013, 01:14 AM
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United Kingdom, Walsall
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trf_414_m2 View Post
If you run your ARX on tarmac, why donīt you switch to a wheel slider setup instead of nylon crashbars?

Iīm so happy about mine, more than a dozen weekend practice tests and nothing to replace yet.

In fact, Iīve destroyed two swingarm shafts but no issues about the side wheels.
What wheels sliders have you fitted?
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Old Jun 25, 2013, 06:26 PM
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Curious how the race went Bernhard.

And off topic for any arx owner, Im curious how thick the cf is for frame?
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Old Jun 27, 2013, 12:50 PM
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Espaņa, CL, Ávila
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Originally Posted by Syncro View Post
What wheels sliders have you fitted?
Custom ones with hardware store plastic wheels fitted on 6mm nylon bars.





Not displayed at the pic is the new brace that keeps wheel slider aligned. It goes from the nylon bar (close to the slider wheel) to the front end of the battery box.
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Old May 24, 2014, 09:24 PM
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Hi, can you help please, need to know the width of the head of the starter rod for the ARX540 to replace lost one, can't start it without. ARModelling is where we bought it in Italy but they don't have a clue, great after sales service!
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