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Old Dec 06, 2010, 02:43 PM
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TripleW's Avatar
Prescott, Arizona
Joined Feb 2010
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The cowl on the eflite Beaver was screwed from the inside. i bought one used and it had four magnets epoxied to the firewall and four to the cowl. You couldn't pull it off. You had to twist it to get the magnets to let go. Worked great! TW
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Old Dec 07, 2010, 03:07 PM
Dream Build Fly Scale
strictlyscale's Avatar
Philadelphia, PA
Joined Oct 2004
2,900 Posts
Was able to get the ailerons attached and servos mounted and extended the leads out the panel root. I'm using Futaba S3010 servos for the ailerons.

I wasn't happy with the gap between the aileron and trailing edge so I ran a little super coverite to seal the gap. Once painted the gap should disappear.

Next attention was turned today to the wing center section. A little dremel work and the Sierra retracts drop in for a nice fit. These will be mounted later.
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Old Dec 07, 2010, 03:20 PM
Dream Build Fly Scale
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Philadelphia, PA
Joined Oct 2004
2,900 Posts
After the success I've had with putting sound in the TF P47, I wanted to give the Corsair the same treatment. Initially I was going to fit the speakers where the flap servo is located, but after some mental debate I wound up locating them in front of the spar and in front of the flap servo pocket. The nice thing about this location is that the weight is just fwd of the CG and I don't have to rework the flap servo location.

Here's a few pics showing the speaker locations being cut out and covers created. Opening up the wing revealed good glue joints between the wood and the glass. Comforting. I used some light balsa to sheet in the openings in the speaker box, and may add some insulation later depending on the sound. The wire mesh is glued to the back of the cover and will be painted to match the underside of the wing.

On the P47 I painted a thick black stripe on the bottom of the wing and it hid the speaker nicely. Can't do the same with the Corsair scheme but hopefully it won't be too noticable in the air.

The speak mounts are 1/4 ply plates and sunk below the wing surface about a 1/4".

The last picture shows the wing panels glued on to the center section with BVM aeropoxy and left to cure overnight. I figured it would be easier to work on all 6 flap sections with the panels on the wing. Dreading that task but will look to tackle that tomorrow if I have a few moments.
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Old Dec 07, 2010, 03:37 PM
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gilbert,az
Joined Dec 2005
3,950 Posts
Very nice, the sound will projected great the way you have it set up!
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Old Dec 07, 2010, 06:02 PM
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United States, VA, Fairfax
Joined Jul 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by strictlyscale View Post
Here's a few pics showing the speaker locations being cut out and covers created.
Did you use a sharp blade or a dremel to cut out the openings?
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Old Dec 07, 2010, 07:12 PM
Dream Build Fly Scale
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Philadelphia, PA
Joined Oct 2004
2,900 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by NUMB-LOCK View Post
Did you use a sharp blade or a dremel to cut out the openings?
I used my exacto knife with a #11 blade to score it a few times then an identical knife with a saw blade in it that looks like a #11 blade. The f/g is pretty thin and if you score it about a dozen times you'll cut right through. The most time was spent ensuring that my opening would be clear of any ribs or spars. I'm satisfied with the location and am glad its in front of the spar.

http://www.micromark.com/7-PIECE-11-...-SET,6567.html
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Old Dec 09, 2010, 09:28 AM
Dream Build Fly Scale
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Philadelphia, PA
Joined Oct 2004
2,900 Posts
Started looking at the flaps and they are a pretty poor fit with regards to how the follow the contour of the wing TE. Guess this is the downside of an ARF vs building the model yourself. Anyways, I taped on the flaps in a postion as best as possible and used a little tape on the surfaces to tack glue the kit supplied hinges to for a trial run. The wire joiner was a pain to get correct but in the end I got one wing panel working OK. The other side was much tougher, and I'm thinking about rethinking this method and going to a robart pin hinge. There is quite a bit of flex in the kit hinges and I'm concerned that any strain on them could cause failure. Especially if I'm flying in cooler weather (which is common here).
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Old Dec 09, 2010, 09:40 AM
Dream Build Fly Scale
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Philadelphia, PA
Joined Oct 2004
2,900 Posts
I guess getting the flaps to work is like a badge of honor for Corsair builders.

Taking a little break from it yesterday I decided to look at the canopy. I've made sliding canopies before but never made one operate remotely. Figured this would be a good one to try it on. If the canopy will open then it must have a full depth cockpit. First step was to cut the cockpit area open. This also means removing some of the bulkhead below it. This is OK as i'm not going to use the pull-pull elevator setup anyways.

I used some slotted brass rails and carefully fitted them in the fuse and along the edge of the opening. Ball links are used to capture the rail and move it via an air cylinder forward of the dash. Push to open, pull to close via a dual acting cylinder.
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Old Dec 09, 2010, 09:57 AM
Dream Build Fly Scale
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Philadelphia, PA
Joined Oct 2004
2,900 Posts
Here's a picture of my pilot sitting in his future home. Yes, that's Pappy Boyington. Maybe a little large for the scale of the model, but should still be cool. So, now I just need to pick the correct scheme for the plane Pappy flew (not the one he had his photo taken in front of).

I have a nice color 3-view of BuNo 17735 saying it was often flown by Pappy in Bougainville Feb 1944. So '735' was my initial thought for a scheme. Most pictures you see of Pappy he is in 883, so maybe that is a better choice. If I go with that, it looks like some images have a red outline around the fuse stars+bars, and some don't. Then when you look at a photo of him in the plane it looks like the red just rings around the star and not the bar. All very confusing.

Any thoughts??
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Old Dec 09, 2010, 01:52 PM
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Leduc, AB, Canada
Joined Oct 2008
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If I remember correctly, I had read that the ensigna with the red outline was only used for about 6 months in '43.
I also had read that Pappy's ships with the #s 883 & 86 had the tricolour ensignia with red outline.
His ships with the #s 740, 993 & 915 had the blue over white ensignia.
I cannot comment on how reliable the info is.
Also, I have not read it anywhere, but I guess it's also probable that #883 could have been repainted witht he blue over white ensignia later on. It could be the reason why we see both depicted in paintings.

Cheers,
Peter
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Old Dec 09, 2010, 03:33 PM
DELTAS RULE
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tehachapi, CA
Joined Jan 2006
22,730 Posts
is pappy giving the finger??

man, those marine birds looked like hammered dog !!!!
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Old Dec 09, 2010, 06:09 PM
Ldm
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United States, PA, Conestoga
Joined Jun 2006
8,365 Posts
mannnn I go away for 5 days and your almost done !!! lol , your building at a record speed !!!!. On the canopy , I found another option in the event that your interested .
I did an air powered canopy on my FW190 , powered with a smaller tank ect .
Since then I also found an eletric powered linear servo build for this purpose , since your an e-expert I want you to know you have that option .Its pricey at about $90 but less work then anothre tank and outlet ect .
Great job , I just got back in town and I am still trying to pick out a motor esc combo that is more on a budget but good in power .
Thanks
Lou
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Old Dec 10, 2010, 09:28 AM
Dream Build Fly Scale
strictlyscale's Avatar
Philadelphia, PA
Joined Oct 2004
2,900 Posts
Lou, I'm always interested in learning of new products. please share a link to the servo you mention, and how you utilized it. At the moment I'm not planning on running a separate tank and fill valve for the canopy, just a single large tank.

I went with Robart 3/16" pin hinges for the flaps and they feel a lot more solid than the stock hinges did. Still need to go back and fill some of the holes I made and there are a few gaps in the surfaces that could use a little filler to gain a better astetic. You may have noticed that I cut the slots in the flap covers/mounts. This was a mistake as the linkage is actually internal, so I'll have to fill those too.
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Old Dec 10, 2010, 09:39 AM
Dream Build Fly Scale
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Philadelphia, PA
Joined Oct 2004
2,900 Posts
The canopy that comes with the kit is very thin and VERY brittle. You can run it under some hot tap water before cutting it and that will help with the brittleness. However, I decided to order a replacement from Ty's Models via VQ Warbirds. Seeing as I want to make it slide open and close it needs some sort of frame to stiffen up the opening without being too thick.

I called Ty yesterday and he confirmed that he used the kit's canopy to produce the mold for his canopy, making them identical. Thus using one for the frame and one for the clear really wouldn't work well. I sacraficed the kit's canopy to aid in making the frame for the new canopy to sit on top of.

Briefly, I taped the kit's canopy to the fuselage and made a rough 1/4 balsa frame to keep the canopy's shape once removed from the fuselage. After spraying in some universal mold release I laid up a couple layers of carbon fibre cloth into the canopy and left it to cure overnight. Below are some pics of the steps and the frame as it popped out of the kit's canopy. This serves as a perfect fit inside the new canopy.
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Old Dec 10, 2010, 09:42 AM
Dream Build Fly Scale
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Philadelphia, PA
Joined Oct 2004
2,900 Posts
When I ordered my new canopy from VQ Warbirds, I also picked up Ty's cockpit kit for this model. Not a lot of detail as it is vacuum-formed parts, but it does serve as a quick route to a satisfactory cockpit tub. Here are a few pics with Pappy in place. I had to eliminate the seat and the base to drop him down enough but I think (hope) it won't be obvious in the completed model.
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