Once the glue has cured on the transom, remove the weights and the masking tape. Trim and block sand the transom true to the bottom planking, side planking. And the sub deck planking.

This is also the time to ruff block sand the sides of the mahogany planked hull with 80 grit sand paper, then 120 grit, and then finally 180 grit paper sanded with the grain.

I haven't made any comments lately but I have enjoyed your posting each step of the build... very nice work Rich! Looking good!

Hey AEROMINDED!!! How is it going? I always like to hear the responses ,both pro and con, on the build, from what I hope to be future customers. I am trying my level best to produce scale model kits a cut above what has be come the norm on the modeling scene here of late.

We are always on the look out for new procedures, new materials, and new subjects, to scale model for our line of boats, with the hopes of gaining the status of the companies who have gone before us, such as Sterling , Midwest, and of course the icon, Dumas.

We take our job very seriously, and to that end do a lot more research and design time on the subjects we chose to target as our next entry into our kit line. Also when we design a new kit, radio controlled operation of the finished model is always number one, from start to finish. We not only want the model to mimic the subject modeled in looks, but in performance also.

I am always open to suggestions on materials and procedures and take everything under advisement. Our latest entry into the model line up at Legend Model Boats proved that in spades with KMOT’s suggestion on the braded metal wrap for the water pickup inlet, which was incorporated into the kit.

So if you see something you think could be done better, speak up. That’s the one thing I like about this forum over a magazine, you guy’s and gal’s can talk to the manufacturer, and I can answer your questions, and you don’t have to pick up a pen or even a phone.

Originally Posted by frankg

:...I am always open to suggestions on materials and procedures and take everything under advisement.....So if you see something you think could be done better, speak up. That’s the one thing I like abut this forum over a magazine, you guy’s and gal’s can talk to the manufacturer, and I can answer your questions, and you don’t have to pick up a pen or even a phone.

So far, so good! Looks like it is going together well to me!

With the hull sides, bottom and transom block sanded smooth, the installation of the mahogany covering boards and inlays are next.

The first covering board will be spotted on the deck at the bow with its back or inside on the 4 1/4" mark on the center line of the hull and the splice joint on the center line. Tape the covering board in place with masking tape every two or three inches as you place it going down the side of the deck.

The covering board will run down the side of the deck with its inside edge even with the cockpit opening (inside shear edge). The covering board will continue toward the transom but will not reach the transom. The covering boards are cut over sized so that they will be over hanging the mahogany side planking of the hull.

Once the covering board is taped in place, mark the inside edge of the covering boards location with a sharp pencil. Now remove the masking tape and the cover board from the deck.

Before we glue the covering board in place with the 12 minute epoxy glue, gather up the weights (cans of food) used on the transom glue up. They will be used along with the masking tape when you glue the covering boards to the sub decking.

Now mix a small batch of 12 minute epoxy resin and coat the sub decking in were the covering board was marked in. Starting at the bow making sure that the cover board in on the center line and its back edge on the 4 1/4” mark, tape in position with masking tape. Then as before proceed down the side of the deck taping in position every 2 or 3 inches, only this time cleaning any excess glue coming out the edge of the covering board. Also place weights on the inside edge of the covering board as you go down the side of the deck. This will insure that you have a tight joint on the cover board to the sub decking.

The second cover board is done in the same manor as the first board, with the exception of making sure that you have a good joint between the two covering boards at the bow. For a good joint it might be necessary to block sand the butting edge of the covering board.

The next items to be installed are the mahogany inlays from the laser sheet D1. Before removing the parts from the sheet you will notice laser etched arrows on both ends of the parts indicating the center line of the parts. Using a straight edge and a pencil, draw a center line between the arrows on the parts. This will be used in lining up the parts on the sub deck placement. Use parts locator sheet #1 for reference. Once the parts are marked they can be removed for the sheet.

The first part to glue to the sub decking is the transom covering board. This board will butt against the ends of the two already installed covering boards, making sure that the center line of the covering board is on the center line of the hull. Mark the inside edge of the cover board on the sub decking, and then apply the 12 minute epoxy glue to the area and install the covering board, taping and weighting in place. Once the glue has cured, remove the tapes and weights and carefully clean up any excess glue that may have come out the edge of the covering board. Reference drawing DWG #9 for locations of inlays.

The next part to be installed is the back deck inlay. This part is really three different pieces, which will have to be carefully marked and cut before gluing in position. The reason for this is so that you will have matched grain from one piece of mahogany veneer showing in the finished deck.

Take the part butt it against the transom covering board, making sure that the center lines match up. Check and make sure that the front of the mahogany inlay is on the center line of the deck at the front of the veneer. Now with a sharp pencil, mark each side edge of the mahogany inlay on the sub deck. Also put pencil marks on top of the inlay on each side were it crosses over the front edge of the hatch frame opening (#F7A). Remove the mahogany inlay and draw with a straight edge, a line across the hatch opening marks. Carefully cut on the line with a sharp Xacto knife making sure not to split the wood on the ends of the cut. (Note: Cut in from the edge of the mahogany veneer form each side to prevent split out of the wood.)

This first piece can now be glued in position with the 12 minute epoxy glue using the pencil lines on the sub deck and the center line on the mahogany veneer for location. Remember to clean up any excess glue that comes out the edges of the veneer when taping and weighting the part down.

Once the first parts glue has cured, take the same piece of the inlay and position it on top of the engine hatch so that the back edge (cut end) of the veneer in over the back edge of the hatch and between the pencil marks on the sub decking. Now mark both sides of the inlay were it crosses over the front edge of the engine hatch. As before remove the inlay and draw a line with a straight edge between the marks for the front of the engine hatch. Cut as before with a Xacto knife and glue with the 12 minute epoxy using the same taping and weighting procedure. (pic 04640)

The last part of the back deck inlay is glued in position on the bridge deck in front of the engine hatch using the 12 minute epoxy glue. The back edge (cut end) will be flush with the face of the frame opening (#F5).

The front deck mahogany inlay is straight forward since the outline for the inlay is laser etched in to the sub deck. Just make sure that the center line on the inlay lines up with the center line of the deck before gluing in place with the 12 minute epoxy. As before taping and weighting of the part in location while the glue sets is the rule.

With all of the mahogany covering boards and deck inlays glued in their location on the sub deck we can now start the filling of the fields with the deck planking and caulking lines. All of the planking for the deck will be made from 1/16” x 1/4” x 36” basswood, with the caulking strips made from the .040” x .080” x 24” white styrene plastic strips.

The first step will be in outlining the covering boards and the mahogany inlays with a caulking strip. The use of a hair drier will help in softening the caulking strip so it will bend rather than break when bending into the radius against the covering boards.

Start at the bow of the boat and heat up the center of one of the strips with the hair direr. Then with the strip standing on edge (the .020” side), form it into the radius an tack glue at the base of the strip with thin CA glue. Now working back each leg of the strip, holding it tight against the covering board, tack glue the strip every inch or so with the thin CA glue.

The next two caulking strips to be fit in against the covering board will be at the transom and start butting against the center deck inlay. Using the hair drier again, heat up the strip were it will have to bend around from the back covering board to run up the side covering board. Starting at the butt joint against the center inlay, start tack gluing the strip with the thin CA glue again while holding the strip tight against the covering boards.

Now because the caulking strips are not long enough to run the entire length of the covering boards, another strip must be fit in-between the strip coming for the bow to the strip coming from the transom. Take care in measuring and cut the strip with a sharp Xatco knife for a good butt joint on the strip. One fit tack glue in with the thin CA glue. (pic 04641)

The next caulking strips are straight forward and will run from the butt joint at the transom covering board forward to the engine hatch opening, on both sides of the mahogany inlay. Strips will be cut the lengths of each of the inlays and glued to the sides of the inlays with the thin CA glue. (See previous photo)