There's a good chance the supplied battery voltage goes through a regulator before it is fed to the circuit board. I've heard many using a lipo as TX battery, with no mods required. You could ask on the heli subforum, where the DX6i is used widely, but I think it should work fine.

Originally Posted by SoloProFan

There's a good chance the supplied battery voltage goes through a regulator before it is fed to the circuit board. I've heard many using a lipo as TX battery, with no mods required. You could ask on the heli subforum, where the DX6i is used widely, but I think it should work fine.

Roger that. Thanks.

Not sure if it helps, but I am going to use a LiFe tranmitter pack on my Futaba 6ex transmitter.
I got it from Tower Hobbies and it should run the radio much better than the stock Nicad pack that comes with the radio. Here is the link to my TX battery http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXZXH2

I use this in my 6EX and it works great - and a lot cheaper.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...poly_Pack.html

This link shows various Rx/Tx batteries. One of the 2s batteries may be suitable for the DX5/6 radios

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...Batteries.html

John

Originally Posted by Rssailor

Not sure if it helps, but I am going to use a LiFe tranmitter pack on my Futaba 6ex transmitter.
.Here is the link to my TX battery http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXZXH2

Roger that.
This pack at this link is 9.6volts?!
Anyone know if a DX6i has a regulator?
Stock DX6i AA's are 4.8 volts which show 5.6v on the LED screen.
I'm happy to note, the stock AAs are rechargeable and reports say they last 5-6 hours. Works for me.

The stock batts work OK, but a good set of low self discharge cells is the way to go. Once your OEM's die, I think you will like the Eneloops or the Batteries Plus generic equivalent much better. You can get the Eneloops at Best Buy.

FC

Well after some hard work this afternoon the rig is standing up now. Not sure how far back to put the jib swivel on the jib boom, anyone wanna let me know where there's is at relative to the front of the jib boom? Will try to get more done tomorrow and post some pictures.
John, I would be leary of an eight dollar battery, especially a lipo battery. That LIFE battery is going to last longer and be a better battery over its life. Ryan

After getting the rig stood up, I put the mainsail on and that was serious struggle to get the jackwire down the pocket on the mainsail. On to rigging the RMG tomorrow, that should be fun. I plan on mounting the RMG on my new platform in front of the mast and running the continuous loop aft 28.5 inches. So far most of the work putting this boat together has been very difficult.
Any update on how NAC went today on the first day? Ryan

Originally Posted by Rssailor

Any update on how NAC went today on the first day? Ryan

Do you receive daily updates from-

AMYA Bulletin <bulletin@theamya.org>

SBOD's looking good!

Originally Posted by Rssailor

me know where there's is at relative to the front of the jib boom?

Suggest you measure Jason Spiller's. He's the fastest SBOD at SFMYC. No need to re-invent the wheel.

Originally Posted by FoamCrusher

a good set of low self discharge cells is the way to go.
FC

How do Radio Shack AA Ni-MH 2500 rate ($17)?!

Swapped "trainer" switch location for potentiometer. Installed 3 pin plug from (AC) rudder converting to pot jib trim. Switch plugs for SBOD-or-AC ops. Plan to design a switch to toggle between AC stick (rudder) & boat (jib trim) pot later.

LINKING CONTROL OF RAKE
MIX1 ties (AC Thro) winch & gear w/switch (flap-gyro) turning MIX1 on/off.

LIGHT WIND-switch (flap) OFF, no rake
STRONG/GUSTY WIND-switch (flap) ON = tack with rake. Running-no rake.
Rake-no rake controlled by (switched) winch. Fully adjustable electronically at Tx.
Simple fix.

Onward.

Talked to Rod Carr yesterday and he suggested 3 to 3.5 inches back from the front of the jib boom. Got the RMG installed this morning and ran the line for the winch in the boat. Now its on to getting a coat of paint on the bottom that looks half way decent and is smooth.
Yes I get the AMYA updates, but no update on the SB nationals yet.
Radio stuff sound like you are doing something no one has tried before, I hope it works.
Ryan

Originally Posted by Rssailor

Talked to Rod Carr yesterday and he suggested 3 to 3.5 inches back from the front of the jib boom. Got the RMG installed this morning and ran the line for the winch in the boat. Now its on to getting a coat of paint on the bottom that looks half way decent and is smooth.
Yes I get the AMYA updates, but no update on the SB nationals yet.
Radio stuff sound like you are doing something no one has tried before, I hope it works.
Ryan

I hesitate to give you 443 measurements since I was at the back of the pack during Region 6. 443 was 3.5" back and now is 4" (experimenting for "sweet spot").

ODOM update is the most recent.

Tx experimenting was suggested by an Illinois SBOD skipper. Onward.

The actual distance back along the jib club for swivel attachment is most directly related to how much jib luff allowance is cut in the luff of your jib, and how much backstay and hence how much jib stay tension you carry. The proper use of a topping lift has eliminated all sorts of magical theories that used to circulate about where to fit the jib swivel. Without a topping lift, that distance had to be matched to the wind speed, and in the 70's skippers fitted easily movable attachment points. Now with the topping lift, a middle of the road position at 3 to 3.5" seems to set the boat up reasonably for controling jib stay tension, and using the topping lift to control jib twist solves the rest of the issue. Obsessing over whether 3" or 4" is the better measurement may be stealing time that one might better spend on the water practicing sailing the boat efficiently.

Originally Posted by RodACarr

Obsessing over whether 3" or 4" is the better measurement .

Trust me, inquiry, experimenting, testing, practicing isn't obsessing. And, it does beat daytime TV. (:

443 has given your (terrific) new sails a serious workout. I'm up-grading rigging and modernizing this 1971 Vortex and that is an adventure made terrific, in no small measure, with the addition of new set of Rod Carr sails-thank you! Onward.