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Old Yesterday, 10:28 PM
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Prof100's Avatar
Canton, Michigan USA
Joined Jul 2007
16,382 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Charlie P (NY) View Post
The T-pin and technique are a prop balancer. I have a more official one (Great Planes) but never found it to be superior.

I put the sizing ring in first as, otherwise, you are changing a balanced prop and wouldhave to repeat the proces.
OK, whatever you find is best is fine.
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Old Today, 12:00 AM
Let it Fly
ClarkR's Avatar
Guadalajara, Jalisco
Joined Feb 2006
1,167 Posts
Thanks to all of you guys, I really get desperate and mad, almost throw the motor, spinner and prop to the garbage.

I don't think that my balancing skills were bad, but since I like to fly 3D, I decide to order a bigger motor and a bigger ESC, and let's see what can we do with this plane, I will tell you what happened.

When my angry to that motor past, I will try to find what was the problem and maybe put it in a electric warbird.

And for Horizon, BNF??? Are you kidding me??? Bad motor, bad prop, bad spinner, I don't know but something is wrong out of the box.... I would prefer to buy a ARF version and select my own electronics.

Thanks again to all you guys!!
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Old Today, 12:10 AM
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Prof100's Avatar
Canton, Michigan USA
Joined Jul 2007
16,382 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by ClarkR View Post
Thanks to all of you guys, I really get desperate and mad, almost throw the motor, spinner and prop to the garbage.

I don't think that my balancing skills were bad, but since I like to fly 3D, I decide to order a bigger motor and a bigger ESC, and let's see what can we do with this plane, I will tell you what happened.

When my angry to that motor past, I will try to find what was the problem and maybe put it in a electric warbird.

And for Horizon, BNF??? Are you kidding me??? Bad motor, bad prop, bad spinner, I don't know but something is wrong out of the box.... I would prefer to buy a ARF version and select my own electronics.

Thanks again to all you guys!!
I know it can be very frustrating when your plane exhibits such problems. You know that it is either the prop, spinner, hub or motor (bell, magnets, shaft or bearings). Or, it is a loose motor mount.
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Old Today, 12:20 AM
Let it Fly
ClarkR's Avatar
Guadalajara, Jalisco
Joined Feb 2006
1,167 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Prof100 View Post
I know it can be very frustrating when your plane exhibits such problems. You know that it is either the prop, spinner, hub or motor (bell, magnets, shaft or bearings). Or, it is a loose motor mount.
That's the word, I was very frustrated!!!

I carefully check the fuselage motor mount and it seems to be ok, I hope so!!! Hehehehe.

Thanks Prof100
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Old Today, 11:24 AM
Balsa to the Wall
Deep in the East Texas Piney Woods
Joined Dec 2001
4,553 Posts
For anyone that's interested, concerning APC props and P60 propshafts.
The prop shaft/adapter on the P60 motor is 7.95MM, or .313 inches diameter.
The relief, or non precision hole in the hub is .245" , or 6.24MM ID.
The ring that centers the prop is .312", or 7.93MM ID.
A 5/16 drill or reamer is .3125", or 7.94MM.
As you can see, using a 5/16 reamer or drill will result in a very tight hole. If you use a tapered reamer or an "O" size (.316") or 8MM drill to open up the hole in the ring and in the hub, you will get a more comfortable fit.
Also be aware that the 1/4" hole in the hub is not always centered, so you may have to open it up a bit larger.
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Last edited by Chuck; Today at 11:31 AM. Reason: fat fingers
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Old Today, 12:01 PM
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Prof100's Avatar
Canton, Michigan USA
Joined Jul 2007
16,382 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuck View Post
For anyone that's interested, concerning APC props and P60 propshafts.
The prop shaft/adapter on the P60 motor is 7.95MM, or .313 inches diameter.
The relief, or non precision hole in the hub is .245" , or 6.24MM ID.
The ring that centers the prop is .312", or 7.93MM ID.
A 5/16 drill or reamer is .3125", or 7.94MM.
As you can see, using a 5/16 reamer or drill will result in a very tight hole. If you use a tapered reamer or an "O" size (.316") or 8MM drill to open up the hole in the ring and in the hub, you will get a more comfortable fit.
Also be aware that the 1/4" hole in the hub is not always centered, so you may have to open it up a bit larger.
Was that measured with pin gauges or a Vernier calipers? Seriously, that is good information.
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Old Today, 12:06 PM
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SQ4MN's Avatar
Joined Sep 2009
307 Posts
I can't believe there is so many that have these vibration problems. I have put together 3 bone stock BNF planes and flown them with no vibration problems. Eventually I replaced 2 of the stock planes power systems with the Power 60 set up that most of you are familiar with. Those 2 planes have XOAR wood props that needed no balancing or reaming, just bolted them on. The third plane still has a stock prop and motor with no problems but I'm going to replace it with the Power 60 set up as they are more fun to fly. Only once did one of the planes vibrate and it turned out to be a hairline crack in the collet. It didn't do it until I changed a prop and somehow cracked the collet.
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Old Today, 03:17 PM
Balsa to the Wall
Deep in the East Texas Piney Woods
Joined Dec 2001
4,553 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Prof100 View Post
Was that measured with pin gauges or a Vernier calipers? Seriously, that is good information.
Measured with a micrometer and digital caliper.

Thanks.


Chuck
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Old Today, 04:27 PM
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United States, MI, Royal Oak
Joined Nov 2005
1,354 Posts
Thanks for all of the advice guys (a few pages back).......I was able to get my Eflite 60amp to recognize my 6s as a 6s and not only a 3s. It was easier than I though. Anyway, thanks again.....these threads are invaluable

Jordan
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Old Today, 07:21 PM
Long time prop nut, new to RC
United States, TX, Allen
Joined Apr 2014
35 Posts
Did custom rc ever make the mount for the Power 60? I moved a couple of years ago and do not have much in the way of tools (drills and drill bits) or work shop.

Dave
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Old Today, 11:16 PM
Master of Repairs
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United States, UT, Grantsville
Joined Mar 2013
949 Posts
Today I had some good flights. I am getting used to this cub as my nitro cub is 73" ws but it glides and glides when landing. The CZC comes down pretty good but doesn't float like the one I am used to so I had a couple of hard landings the other day.

Today was good - soft landings with and without flaps.

I did go ahead and order the cub landing gear. I see with the Dubro tires and 5000mah battery it seems to make the cub a little heavy so you have to be careful on the landings.

As mentioned, I had a few hard landings at the start and noticed the plastic landing gear plate had a small crack on each side where the gear go into. Also the whole front area was not glued down good and was loose. Noticed the landing gear rod was wobbly inside the plastic holder. I decided to go all out and actually ran bolts up into the battery area and put some ply inside so i had a good surface for the nuts. Total I put 5 bolts = 2 front 2 back and 1 center. I went as far back as possible where i could still get a wood plate and nut on the inside. This, plus the glue I shot under the plastic, should help hold the plastic down.

I think the gear is really a poor design. Almost all the support is from that front plastic piece. The rear wire does help with the plastic triangles but not enough.

I also cut out some more foam around the air intake where I have my ESC and drilled some holes around the motor mount as this lets in more air blowing past the motor.

Today I was flying at 75% to 90% throttle and the motor was only warm so i think that fixed the cooling issue.

Once I get the cub landing gear then she should be all fixed up. This winter I hope to get a new paint job.

Keith
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