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Northwest Ohio
Joined Jan 2002
2,456 Posts
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Scott |
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looks very cool, I have a kit built polaris and an electric northstar. Would like to see some more water take off videos before I pull the trigger. The only water video I have seen so far looks a little twitchy on fast taxi. The flier might just not be holding a little up, so hard to tell.
In flight video looks very good. As far as wire size goes, it's hard to argue with the people that have flown it already. I suppose a lower KVA motor with a 4 cell pack would drop the WOT amps some, but it looks like a non issue. |
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Northwest Ohio
Joined Jan 2002
2,456 Posts
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I have noticed when flying her off water you can avoid this by simply keeping the wings level with aileron to offset the torque effect until she's on step. Polaris Ultra Video |
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Northwest Ohio
Joined Jan 2002
2,456 Posts
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Scott |
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I wish I had the motor info, but I think it's a Grim Reaper of some sort. I bought it at the 3DHS closeout sale a while back. I think the kV must be lower than your 2810-9 motor because it only pulled 415 watts with the 8x6 on 4-cells. It weighs 75 grams so it should work I think. I was concerned that here in Texas in the summertime, I might need some extra motor cooling. I see the openings in the front of the cowl, but there doesn't seem to be any opening for the air to exit the cowl area. I was planning to cut out an area on the bottom of cowl to provide an air exit and also allow any ingested water a way to drain out. I have discovered that just like so many other foamies, the Ultra's paint is a little fragile. I tried using the low tack Blue painters tape when I was installing the canopy, but it still pulled off some of the paint. I think that it's just a fact of life that foam doesn't allow much of a purchase for paint to adhere to its surface. It's not a disaster, it's just a reality with foam ARFs. I hope that my comments are not misinterpreted. They are all intended to be constructive and I hope they can help other builders. I really like my new Ultra and I can't wait to get her airborne! McD |
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Latest blog entry: LEDs on my T-28
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Northwest Ohio
Joined Jan 2002
2,456 Posts
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![]() I've found the same thing with paint on foam ARF'S, especially ones molded from EPO. It's by far the best foam, but there are release agents used during the molding process that can inhibit the paint from sticking well. As long as you're careful it's fine. Mine still looks great after many flights. Scott |
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I'm sure you could convince the manufacturer to plasma treat the surface before painting <grin>. It really helps paint stick to polyolefins like PP and PE. www.plasmatreat.com/
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USA, IN, Nineveh
Joined Apr 2002
2,404 Posts
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Most polyolefin do not accept finishes without some kind of pre treatment to etch the surface. It does not have as much to do with the release used as it does to the material composition itself which has a natural lubricity. Flame or plasma surface treatment may possibly deform the foam but there are special ink compositions for printing on treated or untreated surfaces of polyolefin plastics. The manufacturer could possibly find a paint or ink that will adhere better. In the mean time, I am anxiously awaiting my new kit. ![]() Tim |
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