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Old Mar 09, 2015, 01:52 PM
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Thanks, there's more to come, next batch of pictures,



Adding more stringers, the next batch is ready to be placed.



At the background you can see what i'm fighting at, i only have two pictures from the real thing, no measurements.



The complete construction is covered by steel plates, made some copper plating to imitate that.



Once soldered you get this, each time i compare it to the picture, simply to see how far off i'm.

Manfred.
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Old Mar 10, 2015, 07:05 AM
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As allways , looks great .
In my contry we have an old saing about poeple like You :
- You have "gold hands" ,

MARIUS
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Old Mar 10, 2015, 02:36 PM
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Thanks Marius,

Experience is the key word, all those years of learning how to build this pays off with these kind of projects.



Next stage was to make cardboard molds which i transferred to copper, i took some time to make them all.



Once soldered to their places you get this.



Next step was to make those pillars which connect the lower to the upper part, first i made some cardboard molds, and lined out these on copper plate, the one on the picture are still raw cutted.



The first finished pillar, still had to make three more, this one learned me how to make it, the first one is alway difficult, you have to find out which way is the best to build it, to be continued.

Manfred.
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Old Mar 12, 2015, 03:02 AM
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Wat tools You use to solder such a thin line and such a thin materials without bend ?.
Can You describe a litle the proces or put some picture with the tools ?.

And specialy how You do it to avoid to desolder the other lines , becouse such a thin material and specialy Coper transmit instantly the heat all ower the material .

THANK YOU
MARIUS
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Old Mar 12, 2015, 12:25 PM
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Manfred can explain his technique.

What I do not do...
Once the soldered parts are hot enough, if you feed solder from the spool you will most likely be using too much solder for the joint and this will require lots of cleanup, filing and sanding.

What I do sometimes...
If you cut a small piece of solder, say 1/8 inch or a few millimeters, clean and flux your joint, place the small section of solder in the joint, the flux should hold it in position, apply your heat to the brass (not the solder). Once the brass joint is hot enough the solder will wick right into the joint and flow via capillary action. You will be surprised how much less solder you need and use. And you have a clean solder joint with minimal cleanup. You can prevent nearby joints from unsoldering using wet paper towel pieces or zinc or alligator clips to draw the heat away from the joint you do not want undone.

Manfred, I could not see the picture clearly to see what this is or find anything online. I suspect a torpedo loading device? Nice job, always like seeing stuff like this.
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Old Mar 12, 2015, 02:57 PM
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Marius,

The first step with soldering is like Ken described, clean all parts bij using sandpaper, next step is using a good flux, the flux i use is a paste which will keep all parts clean and will conduct the heat better.
Always heat the object which you want to solder, don't put too much heat on the joint you want to make, it will burn your solder away instead of making the connection.

The method as described by Ken i also use, pieces of solder ready at their place, if you use too much solder the joint will be bad after cleaning it up with the Dremel, too much mechanical force with separate the joint.

Thin plates i solder always in steps, cooling down the object with cool water after each step, if you don't do that, the heat will build up in the object, with the result de-soldering your object the next time you solder.
For thin plates i use the soldering-iron, i have a lot of different tips for it, each tip i use for different joints, for example, a needle-tip for very small objects, a much bigger tip for bigger objects.
Bigger and thicker stuff is soldered with the torch and Silver-solder, after each run i use cold water to cool it down, if you let it cool down by air the object will become soft and you can bend it easely.

Ken, you are right, it's a loading rigg for torpedo's used on the type XXIII, it's nearly finished, but i thought it would be nice to show how it was build.



More pillars are added each time to the top-part.



I ended up with this, a total of four pillars soldered to the top-part.



Dryfitting it to the bow of my type XXIII.



Dryfitting it on the lower part revealed a error, compared to the picture i have it wasn't beefy enough.
The T-shaped bars where much too small, i had to rebuild the complete lower part.



Rebuilding the lower part took me some days, but compared to the picture it's much better, to be continued.


Manfred.
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