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Old Feb 20, 2011, 01:36 PM
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theKM's Avatar
central PA.
Joined Sep 2004
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Originally Posted by rcbirk21 View Post
Is that from the US warehouse or the chinese warehouse?
from the US warehouse... they're stocking a lot more packs now too.
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Old Feb 20, 2011, 01:48 PM
Barefoot Birkinsomething
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United States, CA, Hayward
Joined Aug 2004
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Originally Posted by theKM View Post
from the US warehouse... they're stocking a lot more packs now too.
sweet. really wish they would start to stock the nanos as well
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Old Feb 20, 2011, 03:18 PM
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Fort Wayne
Joined Feb 2009
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71 going together
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Old Feb 20, 2011, 03:24 PM
Barefoot Birkinsomething
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United States, CA, Hayward
Joined Aug 2004
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by all means correct me if im wrong jim, but those look like some servos that are better than 985's
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Old Feb 20, 2011, 03:59 PM
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United States, LA, Moss Bluff
Joined Nov 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnyrocco123 View Post
So you plug in you motor battery with the throttle stick at full, and then you gradually move up the end point % toward 100 until you hear the beep.

Then you move the stick all the way down and gradually increase % until it arms.



Do I have this?
I don't know how mine is set up but I use a low idle on the gear switch. So before I take off the prop s spinning at a low rate. Any move of the stick gives me more. I have all my 3dhs planes set up like this.

try it.
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Old Feb 20, 2011, 04:04 PM
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United States, LA, Moss Bluff
Joined Nov 2008
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BTW I did find the tail heavy spot on my 70 yesterday. The 8s 2x3600 40c turnigys weigh in at 29oz. I bought these 3 hyperion 2600 from an addict and they are a lot lighter. 9oz to be exact. I move the battery up a bit but wanted to keep it under 2 straps. Well after take off I had about 4-5 clicks of down trim to deal with. Hovered a little easier with maybe the lighter plane and probably more because of the cg. It flew fine but the landing was interesting. Had to come in a little faster to keep the tail up!

I may check it on the sticks to see where i was.

Also this was a maiden after the motor box replacement. No trimming needed with the regular battery packs.

In the pic you can see the normal placement of the heaver setup.

Rob
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Old Feb 20, 2011, 04:22 PM
Pain? I know pain!
Weldon Spring, Missouri
Joined Mar 2005
1,517 Posts
I just started building my 71" today (Yea!!!) and second step stopped me cold in my tracks. I tried to install the tail wheel and one screw only goes in about 1 1/2 to 2 turns, the second about 4 or so. I tried to torque them a bit and they feel like they are bottoming out or the threads are not cut through. The screw comes out clean with no thread damage. Don't know what to do and do not have a tap this small.

Help!!!

See pictures,

Tom
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Old Feb 20, 2011, 04:24 PM
3D Legion: "for we are many"
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United States, CO, Highlands Ranch
Joined Sep 2003
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It is probably glue in there and a tap is the best/safest way to clean it out.
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Old Feb 20, 2011, 04:44 PM
I fly, therefore, I crash!!!
SteveT.'s Avatar
San Jose, CA
Joined Jan 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by litespeed View Post
I just started building my 71" today (Yea!!!) and second step stopped me cold in my tracks. I tried to install the tail wheel and one screw only goes in about 1 1/2 to 2 turns, the second about 4 or so. I tried to torque them a bit and they feel like they are bottoming out or the threads are not cut through. The screw comes out clean with no thread damage. Don't know what to do and do not have a tap this small.

Help!!!

See pictures,

Tom
Hi Tom

First, take an undersized drill bit, and carefully drill through the blind nut. Make sure it is undersized, and you go slow, as you don't want to mess up the threads. Then take a screw the same size and thread a nut onto it (to "clean the threads when it is taken off) then grind a short taper (about .125" to .187") onto it. Then using a abrasive "cut-off" wheel in a Dremel tool, cut two grooves (one on each side) length-ways on the screw. Take the nut off, cleaning the threads. Basically you are making a tap. Then carefully work the screw into the hole, do not push on it, as you do NOT want to push the blind nut out inside the fuselage.

SteveT
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Old Feb 20, 2011, 04:49 PM
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Durham NC
Joined Jul 2004
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Wow. Great tip. Cool!
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Old Feb 20, 2011, 04:52 PM
I fly, therefore, I crash!!!
SteveT.'s Avatar
San Jose, CA
Joined Jan 2008
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Originally Posted by fmidgett View Post
Wow. Great tip. Cool!
I know I can't give flying tips, as I can't fly like a lot of the guys, so, I help with building tips when I can. A person does tend to learn a little in 52 years (off and on) of building...

SteveT
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Old Feb 20, 2011, 05:23 PM
Registered User
United States, FL, Melbourne
Joined Jan 2010
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Originally Posted by rcbirk21 View Post
Is that from the US warehouse or the chinese warehouse?
USA Warehouse
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Old Feb 20, 2011, 05:25 PM
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Joined Sep 2009
56 Posts
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Originally Posted by jsmith285 View Post
71 going together
Hey Joe,
Those don't look like 985's you're putting in there?
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Old Feb 20, 2011, 07:16 PM
Yeeah buddy!
PinkYakRC's Avatar
Northern Colorado
Joined May 2010
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Originally Posted by jsmith285 View Post
71 going together
Nicey nicey!
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Old Feb 20, 2011, 07:18 PM
Yeeah buddy!
PinkYakRC's Avatar
Northern Colorado
Joined May 2010
2,451 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Draknkep View Post
Hi Tom

First, take an undersized drill bit, and carefully drill through the blind nut. Make sure it is undersized, and you go slow, as you don't want to mess up the threads. Then take a screw the same size and thread a nut onto it (to "clean the threads when it is taken off) then grind a short taper (about .125" to .187") onto it. Then using a abrasive "cut-off" wheel in a Dremel tool, cut two grooves (one on each side) length-ways on the screw. Take the nut off, cleaning the threads. Basically you are making a tap. The carefully work the screw into the hole, do not push on it, as you do NOT want to push the blind nut out inside the fuselage.

SteveT
Ahhh...reminds me when I lost a blind nut into the fuse on my 68" Velox....then I did it again on my 70" Slick...
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