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Old Jun 26, 2016, 08:44 PM
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United States, AZ, Laveen
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kyosho streamliner

Is anyone still running one of these? I just repowered a neglected hull. Runs pretty good, but may be faced with a driveline replacement. The tube/shaft gets pretty toasty, even after cleaning and regressing with white lithium.
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Old Jun 26, 2016, 10:38 PM
Kmot is offline
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Grumpa Tom
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I ran one for quite a while before I sold it.

I would say that you have something binding, and that is why it is generating heat. Take out the shaft, clean it dry, and roll it on a flat table, and see if it is bent. If it's good, check the stuffing box for dents, kinks. If that looks good, move up to the motor and coupling. Re-attach the greased prop shaft and coupling, loosen the motor mount screws slightly. and run the motor at very low rpm while snugging up the mount screws. This is an attempt to find a non-binding setting.

Another possibility I just thought of, is a mis-matched shaft and stuffing tube. Using an Imperial shaft in a metric tube, could have such minimal clearance it will always generate too much friction.

Attaching a photo of my Streamliner.


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Old Jun 27, 2016, 05:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flying Pig View Post
The tube/shaft gets pretty toasty, even after cleaning and regressing with white lithium.
Kyosho has been using 'stuffing tubes' on their boats which don't deserve that name, as there's nothing to stuff (with grease).
Check if your boat has one of those, where the stuffing tube is the same diameter over it's entire lenght, with no bushings at either end.

Using grease on the shaft creates a lot of drag, heating up both shaft and stuffing tube.

If you take a piece of brass tubing from the K&B stand that's a snug fit over the stock stuffing tube, the solution for this issue is easy.

Take out the stock stuffing tube by heating it with a soldering iron; the glue will soften and you can pull out the hot tube without damaging the hull.

Cut the new tube to the correct size and solder half an inch of the old stuffing tube into each end of the new one, so only 10 mm goes into the tube, the part sticking out gives you something to solder.

Do this with the shaft in place so the 'bushings' are alligned.

Cut of the excess and make sure there are no burrs and the rear bushing is nice and flat (that's where the thrust of the prop will be on).

Epoxy the tube back into the boat, fasten the coupler while doing that to assure optimal allignment between motor and propshaft.

Now the grease has some place to go.

Regards, Jan.
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Old Jun 29, 2016, 01:45 PM
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Found one in a second-hand shop, needed ESC & batteries, ran really nice, no problems what so ever. Double check the shaft-stuffing box alignment. Look close at the shaft for signs of wear. Feel for anything, should spin freely. Look thru the stuffing block, is it straight. Put prop shaft in drill & polish it with wet/dry sandpaper at slow speed....... CplFuzz
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