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Old Jun 04, 2014, 10:24 AM
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Joined Jun 2014
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Revolt 30 Motor/ESC questions

Hi guys!

Brand new to the forums. First post.

Recently picked up the Revolt 30 and have been having a blast getting it setup, upgraded, tuned, etc but everything I've done to date has been fairly minor: flex shaft, prop sharpen/balance, COG, loc-tite all bolts, etc.

I'm running the stock 1800kv motor with the stock ESC, 60a, on two 2S 5000 lipo's. The boat is running fantastic! No issues. Of course, I still like doing upgrades and making enhancements to fine tune and make the boat faster.

Can anyone recommend some solid combinations to get more out of the boat? I hear about a lot of people going to the Seaking 120a ESC but I believe you need to run a bigger battery, is that correct? I'm still learning how all of this works so your help is appreciated!

Additionally, is there anything I can do to enhance the servo? There seems to be a lot of slop/play on the rudder and I'd like to figure out a way to tighten that up but again, don't know if new parts are needed or if a tweak can be made.

Last question is about the small brass insert that goes inside the strut tube. Mind came out for some reason and I'm not sure if it needs to be glued back in or if it can just be pushed back in. I know it holds the flex shaft in place from moving around too much but don't know how to properly secure it again.

Thanks in advance guys!!
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Old Jun 04, 2014, 02:12 PM
RELAX. You'll live longer
785boats's Avatar
Brisbane- Australia
Joined Jul 2007
3,026 Posts
Hi there Billedj 1.
Welcome to the forums.
The brass insert is known as a floating bush. Do not glue it in. It spins in the liner in the strut & the shaft spins inside the bush. Grease the bush & shaft after every 3 or 4 runs, & it will last a long time. Always make sure there is a 1/8-3/16 inch gap between the drive dog & the rear of the strut so the bush can spin freely.

There's no "need" to run a bigger battery with a SK120 ESC but you can if you want to, for a bit longer run time.

Cheers.
Paul.
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Old Jun 05, 2014, 01:24 PM
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Thanks Paul. That makes sense!
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Old Jun 08, 2014, 06:34 AM
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Changing out the esc will not get you any more performance. The stock ESC is very underrated, many people use them for Spec class racing along with the UL-1 2030kv motor or the 1800kv depending on the boat.
Getting the boat properly set up with a good prop will max out the hull speed, any more and they get unstable. Also risking serious hull damage if you decide to up the speed.
While they are a good boat they are built to a price point designed to run at the stock speeds, these forums are filled with stories about split hulls, smashed in hatches etc in the quest for more speed from a boat not built for it.
I'm guilty of it as well, got my Motley crew as soon as they came out, second weekend with it installed a bigger/faster motor, lasted about 50 yards before it blew over backwards and smashed in the hatch from the force of it landing upside down at over 50mph.
Be happy with what you have, build your next one starting with a quality hull and put all the fun go fast stuff in it.
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Old Jun 12, 2014, 09:29 AM
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Well said and thank you for the advice. I will stick with the stock motor and esc on this one.

I'm working on a few non-motorized upgrades for the revolt so that will keep me busy for now... new battery tray, new motor mount, added cooling lines and transom pick up to cool the motor and esc separately, aluminum ball connectors for the rudder and servo, new servo mount, new prop, upgraded the flex cable, etc.

Btw, any good tricks or ideas for removing the stock motor mounts that are epoxied to the hull? I would have just kept the stock motor mount but I was having issues with spacing and alignment to the brass tubing so I want to change it out for a different and more flexible setup.
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Old Jun 14, 2014, 09:11 AM
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Joined Apr 2010
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Hi,
I have a setup guide for the revolt that covers some upgrade options, if you'd like a copy send me an email at jqhydro@gmail.com.

I would not upgrade the ESC unless you plan to run a really hot prop (like m445) or if you want to run 5S or 6S. On 4S the stock ESC is a workhorse and it is also extremely water resistant-- most "upgrade" escs are not nearly so (even if they say they are).

Chief
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Old Jul 18, 2014, 06:11 PM
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United States, NJ, Old Bridge Township
Joined May 2013
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I replaced the ESC with a Turnigy 180 from Hobby King, Installed a Leopard 3665 2100KV motor using a sharpened and balanced M445 prop = OMG!!!
First run I was at 50mph, made some adjustments and then hit 55mph. I am setting the boat up for NAMBA P Limited. At 55mph, the boat is on the edge. You need to be quick with the steering and throttle to compensate for changes in the water.
I know this maybe over kill for what you are looking to do, but - the motor cost me $50 on ebay (new) and then the prop and ESC. No regrets for what I saw on the water.

I did have the 2030kv motor but is was just a little short in power for the class. For playing at the lake, it is great. I also noticed a huge difference in batteries. If I use a 5000mah battery with a 40C, The boat safe and fun. If I use 5000mah 65-130C, the boat is an animal.

Hope this helps and have fun.
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Old Jul 19, 2014, 04:17 AM
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Not going to be able to run that Leopard in P ltd. You need to check the rule book for the list of approved motors.
Basically Aquacraft and Proboat motors only, unless it is a club class and not the official sanctioned class.
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Old Jul 19, 2014, 07:34 AM
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United States, NJ, Old Bridge Township
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sibe View Post
Not going to be able to run that Leopard in P ltd. You need to check the rule book for the list of approved motors.
Basically Aquacraft and Proboat motors only, unless it is a club class and not the official sanctioned class.
I miss read it thinking I could go over the highest KV by 5%. The highest KV motor is 2030kv. I am thought I would be legal to run a 2100kv. By reading it again I understand. I have a motor for P Mono.
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Last edited by Finest Racing; Jul 19, 2014 at 08:47 AM.
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Old Jul 19, 2014, 03:44 PM
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I wish it worked that way! There are some much better motors available for less money than the PB and AQ offerings. Gotta have rules though I guess.
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Old Jul 20, 2014, 10:30 AM
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United States, NJ, Old Bridge Township
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The rules make it more of a stock class then a limited class. The motors are OK, the 2030kv has a history of not staying together. They seem to generate more heat then the 1800kv even with a prop adjustment.
Back to the drawing board.
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Old Jul 21, 2014, 07:59 AM
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I run the 2030kv + stock ESC in my p-limited hydro, that is a fast setup. It will run hotter, I only run it for 3.5min to finish the heat races... it is not my sports boat (it is also a hydro hull, a mono hull will pull a lot more amps and get even hotter).

On the revolt, the m445 prop is a great prop for that boat, try that with the stock motor but watch for heat in the ESC. If the ESC is running hot then consider upgrading that (I personally like to stick with the stock ESC as it is a nice unit).

Note, is your stock prop sharpened and balanced? A properly prepared prop can speed things up quite a bit.

If you do any upgrades, you need to get rid of the deans connectors, they are not rated to handle the amp load (you should do this anyway...). Get rid of the serial harness and use 5.5mm bullets, unless you have kids that are running the boat (it is really easy to accidentally dead short the packs when using bullets without the serial harness). If you want to keep the serial harness for safety, then use EC5 connectors. Still change the motor to esc connectors to 5.5 bullets. EC3 connectors are ok (that is what comes stock on the Proboats now), but since you are breaking out the soldering iron you might as well size them up to keep the resistance as low as practical.

As earlier posters indicated, these RTR hulls are good up to around 50mph. Higher than that and crashes often result in hull damage.


Chief
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Last edited by BHChieftain; Jul 21, 2014 at 08:06 AM.
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