Originally Posted by DoomsDay

You probably wouldn't hear anything if it was jammed. Easy way to check if the motor has slipped is pull the front cover off, Hold onto the top and push up from the bottom and see if anything pops into place. It doesn't take much force. If it does, then you know that was the problem. Good Luck.

Forgive my ignorance - when you say front cover are you talking about a cover to the motor? I haven't really tinkered with the innards much so I don't have a clue about it's anatomy...

No, the front canopy. That will give you access to the inside of the heli.

Agree on checking the battery... I had a problem with mine with a Thunder Power150 pack... its a little longer than the e-flight, and if its pushed in all the way, it WILL interfere with the gears.

jc

If you look up from the bottom when you slide the battery in, you can see where the gears are and make sure you are clear of them.

Hello,
I hope this was not posted here yet..

To all who have problems with carbon tail boom vibration, there is a detailed solution by thestar22 on youtube.

It seems that main shaft is touching the landing gear, and this causes the vibration.
The solution of this guy is to place small spacers where the landing gear attaches to the mainframe.

http://www.youtube.com/user/thestar22#p/u

I strongly suggest everyone check for this issue. I discovered it the other day due to a post on HeliFreak that suggested the same fix. I do not fly with the carbon fiber tail boom, but there is no way it is good to have the shaft rubbing on the landing skid like that. You can only really see if this is happening by removing the body and inserting a battery to check.

I noticed the slop on my main rotor shaft as well. The slop causes the bottom of the main rotor shaft to hit the top of the battery cage.

I was at the Hobby store just right now and there were two mCX2 sitting out. One had the same degree of slop in the main rotor shaft, causing it to hit the battery cage like it does on mine. The other mCX2 was nice and tight. Very minimal play as you'd expect.. I also tested the mSR and it's rotor shaft had very tight, precise play as well.

I wonder if the collar above the bearing needs to be mounted a hair lower to pick up the slop. Perhaps the issue is due to lax tolerances at the factory when drilling the hole to receive the retaining screw for that collar above the bearing. Hope that makes sense.

Can all the mCX2 owners see if they have any up and down play in their main shaft.

I mean, instead of adding spacer to the landing skids, maybe we should tighten up the play in the main rotor shaft instead?

-Daryoon

Just a reminder to anyone who may be checking for this who has not viewed the video. You have to insert a battery to check for this. The battery cage bulges up a bit with the battery inserted, so without the battery in there everything may appear fine.

I think you could make some spacers out of sheet plastic (I have in my machine shop in varied thicknesses) instead of grommets, and then not need to add any glue to landing gear.

Just a suggestion from a total noob

btw, can someone tell me how to mount my cf training gear on my MCX2?

Out-of-the-box, I made sure that there was no vertical play in my inner shaft. I did this to insure a rock solid hover. Upon inspection, after reading the above few posts, I have at least 1/32" clearance between inner shaft tip and skid brace.
Take the vertical slack out of your inner shaft and you should not have to add spacers.

Mine looked like it might be touching, so I did the spacer mod. Installed the CFTB again, but it still has the same tail vibration.

Instead of using spacers, why dont you just shave a little of the plastic off the center support piece? That would be the best thing, you wouldn't need any spacers or anything.

Originally Posted by DoomsDay

Instead of using spacers, why dont you just shave a little of the plastic off the center support piece? That would be the best thing, you wouldn't need any spacers or anything.

Spacers are easier, take less time and have less probability for damage. In addition, 4 extra ones come with the mCX2, so they are immediately available. Actually, I used the O-rings from the CFTB and put 2 of the spare grommets on the CFTB. Regardless, mine is back to using the entire fuselage, with the spacers in place. Took just a couple of minutes for each change.

The problem with the spacers though is that unless you glue the pegs into the body, you have a greater chance of them coming out. And trust me, if you do any crashing at all, those extra grommets will be needed lol.

Also, it should only take a couple minutes to shave off a small amount of plastic off that center bar to get clearance. I really dont see it as being harder or longer than doing the spacer thing. but hey, everyone sees things differently so if it works for you then its just as good as anything else others do.