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Old Aug 13, 2015, 09:19 PM
jk6672 is online now
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John
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United States, CA, Heber
Joined Sep 2012
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Too much work for me to enjoy. I redid the landing gear block once. To me it was a PITA and wont do it again. I didn't "enjoy" fabricating my own parts. I would rather buy a new fuselage than go through that again. Now if they offered had laser cut parts for us to buy that would be great, but other than that I'd rather buy a new airframe.
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Old Aug 13, 2015, 09:38 PM
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I'll fly (and crash) anything!
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United States, MI, Orion Charter Township
Joined Mar 2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jk6672 View Post
Too much work for me to enjoy. I redid the landing gear block once. To me it was a PITA and wont do it again. I didn't "enjoy" fabricating my own parts. I would rather buy a new fuselage than go through that again. Now if they offered had laser cut parts for us to buy that would be great, but other than that I'd rather buy a new airframe.
depending on how well the fabrication goes I may end up doing that.. but a new fuselage at 95 bucks, plus about 30 to ship it.. getting up there

I may end up like you though.. enjoy it once but then say to heck with it! lol
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Old Aug 14, 2015, 12:00 AM
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LOWER!!!
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United States, MI, Oxford Charter Township
Joined Jan 2014
100 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by ryane67 View Post
depending on how well the fabrication goes I may end up doing that.. but a new fuselage at 95 bucks, plus about 30 to ship it.. getting up there

I may end up like you though.. enjoy it once but then say to heck with it! lol
That's where I stand 😆 just like the little foamies, once you have to repair them they never fly the same. . .
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Old Aug 19, 2015, 11:05 PM
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I'll fly (and crash) anything!
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United States, MI, Orion Charter Township
Joined Mar 2013
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I got some more work done on the Extra yesterday and today..

I peeled the covering off the entire bottom to see what else may have been damaged, and work from the back forward while I wait in hopes of a motor box coming back into stock. According to Curtis if it's not in this week then it likely won't be in until October

I'm glad I went beyond the visible damage as the former behind the air exit space was cracked in 3 places.. I decided to use some 1/16x3/16 bass against the longerons as a doubler on that.. I don't have a pic, but the piece is sitting perpendicular to the former to add strength.

I also decided to just cut the next two forward of that one out, as both were pretty well shot, and replace them.

The balsa sheeting that directs air out the lower vent hole was too badly damaged so I just created a new one, easy peasy with a sharp blade of course..

The next former forward was tough.. I didn't have all the pieces so I had to improvise. I didn't want to add any more weight and double up anything for support so I decided I would put my scroll saw to work for the first time. I think it turned out rather nice... though I did have to throw away my first attempt........ measure 4 times cut once
a little titebond, some clamps and it's sitting overnight.

I've yet to decide on the next former forward from this one... maybe in a few days I'll decide how to proceed. it's just the bottom piece that holds the CF longerons and covering, the structural section is pretty well intact. (final pic)
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Old Aug 20, 2015, 07:12 AM
Ohio AV8TOR is online now
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On loan to Texas
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United States, TX, Benbrook
Joined Oct 2005
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What have you been using for debonding of those broken bulkheads?
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Old Aug 20, 2015, 08:54 AM
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I'll fly (and crash) anything!
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United States, MI, Orion Charter Township
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What have you been using for debonding of those broken bulkheads?
heating up the tip of old exacto blades with my butane torch, then carefully sliding it between them. Just be sure to pay close attention to the notches and try not to touch it to good balsa as it'll burn quickly.
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Old Aug 20, 2015, 09:23 AM
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Yin & Yang
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United States, VA, Sterling
Joined Jul 2011
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Originally Posted by ryane67 View Post
heating up the tip of old exacto blades with my butane torch, then carefully sliding it between them. Just be sure to pay close attention to the notches and try not to touch it to good balsa as it'll burn quickly.
Not the easiest way if you can't figure out the technique, but if you can, it works great! And quick.
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Old Aug 20, 2015, 09:59 AM
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TEAM EXTREME FLIGHT
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USA, FL, Largo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ohio AV8TOR View Post
What have you been using for debonding of those broken bulkheads?
I replaced a motorbox in a 48" Yak and used Golden West Super Solvent. It rips right through whatever glue the factory uses. It actually works better on that than it does on CA! I had the motorbox out in about 20 minutes.
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Old Aug 24, 2015, 11:28 AM
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Learning 3D
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United States, PA, Kunkletown
Joined Mar 2015
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Just picked up this plane rtf from a member on rcgroups. He installed a full size servo for the rudder. It's a futaba s3003. Looking to put in something better. What would be a good replacement? All other servos are hitec.
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Old Aug 24, 2015, 01:51 PM
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I'll fly (and crash) anything!
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United States, MI, Orion Charter Township
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Originally Posted by Potoczak View Post
Just picked up this plane rtf from a member on rcgroups. He installed a full size servo for the rudder. It's a futaba s3003. Looking to put in something better. What would be a good replacement? All other servos are hitec.
You could always make an adapter plate out of light ply and use one of the 5245 or 7245 recommended servos.
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Old Aug 24, 2015, 10:41 PM
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Pro Bro #1963
United States, VA, Dublin
Joined Mar 2004
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Originally Posted by ryane67 View Post
You could always make an adapter plate out of light ply and use one of the 5245 or 7245 recommended servos.
Yes, just about ANYTHING would be better than what was in there. Wonder why the guy did that?
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Old Aug 25, 2015, 05:43 AM
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Learning 3D
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United States, PA, Kunkletown
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Originally Posted by flygilmore View Post
Yes, just about ANYTHING would be better than what was in there. Wonder why the guy did that?
I guess supposedly that's all he had at the moment when he was building the plane.
If I do make a adaptor plate for a smaller servo won't it stick out to far away from the fuse giving the linkage a weird angle??
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