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Old Mar 02, 2013, 01:07 AM
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Hungary, Baranya, Pécs
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ASP 180AR Two Stroke Glow Engine (from hobbyking) initial setup of needles and plug

hello there dear ppl.

I searched a bit but did not found about this exactly.

I purchased a brand new ASP 180AR Two Stroke Glow Engine from HK.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...w_Engine_.html

We have pretty much experience here with GLOW engines, OS and ASP too.

But, please help me with this.

The engine is properly runned in with 3 tanks of fuel.

HK product discussion recommended OS 8 plug (some recommends HOTTER plug against quitting)

So my engine is quitting. with wery hard work we tried to set low needle, high needle, endpoints look fine (idle and max) but TRANSITION is AWFUL , scary!! will it quit in any moment?? and, in air, coming in to land, just above idle: scary gurgling hissing puffing strange , locomotion-like sounds scary!backfire-ing with large explosion sounds, etc!

do I need always-on heating for the plug? do I need another plug? hotter? cooler?

my fuel is pure alcohol NO NITRO with 17% non-synthetic oil. do I need other? 5% nitro for smoother run?
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Old Mar 02, 2013, 09:43 AM
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USA, TX, Grapevine
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The engine is a copy of a OS BGX-3500 engine, as well as a copy of the OS 8AA carburetor used on the engine.
You can use the instructions for the BGX engine for your engine. ref http://manuals.hobbico.com/osm/29383000-manual.pdf
Unfortunately, the Chinese can still be hit and miss on making good carbs consistently.

But one thing is if the fuel lines, fuel tubing and fuel tank clunk are too small in size it causes too much fuel drag and it can affect a engine a lot. But if yours is running too rich through the mid-range then it doesn't quite sound like your problem though.

I have been using a Fox long glow plug, I forget if it is a RC or regular one though. My fuel is 5% nitromethane glow fuel but zero nitro fuel should be OK. My engine does make some odd noises, but I don't think it was making sounds as descriptive as the sounds your engine is making though.

If after you start the engine and at around idle speed you remove the glow plug ignitor and the engine slows down a lot, then it likely needs a more hot heat range glow plug and or more nitromethane in the glow fuel.

Mine is pretty gnarly sounding anyway. So I can't tell if it is like yours or not of course.
Here is a video I did a while back when flying my engine.
Flying my Aeroworks 80 inch Profile Extra RC plane (8 min 18 sec)
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Last edited by earlwb; Mar 02, 2013 at 09:46 AM. Reason: add more information
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Old Mar 02, 2013, 10:18 AM
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Hungary, Baranya, Pécs
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mine sounds

TAURUS + ASP 180AR (3 min 5 sec)


os 8 glow plug (copy plug from HK but should be similar)

NONE nitrous, 17% natural oil

the funny gurgling puffing noise is not recorded, it vas during the maiden flight. scary backfires ka-boom sounds!

many thx for your reply I will check everything, your plane looks so good to me.. what is it made of???
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Old Mar 02, 2013, 10:37 AM
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What size propeller are you using?
I used a 18x8 Master Airscrew prop at first and for the plane I switched to a 20x6 Master Airscrew prop. I don't think the engine likes to rev up all that high. I think it likes to run in the 7k to 8k RPM range.

The plane is a 80 inch wing span Profile Extra from Aeroworks.
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Last edited by earlwb; Mar 02, 2013 at 10:39 AM. Reason: typo correction
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Old Mar 07, 2013, 12:29 AM
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Martin,


Any setting at which the engine can run continuously is 'in the ballpark'...

It is good practice to always start way too rich (both on the high-speed and on the low-speed needle) and then to lean the high-speed needle to a little over maximum RPM (find maximum lean, beyond which RPM begins to sag; and then richen it).

The low-speed needle must be set to best response/transition.
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Old Apr 08, 2013, 04:29 AM
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the warm weather comes slowly (spring time) I will start testing.

I have HK glow plugs HK 3, 4,5,6

it says these are "comparable to"

HK # 3 = OS # 6 Hot
HK # 4 = OS # 7 Medium Hot
HK # 5 = OS # 8 Medium
HK # 6 = OS # 10 Cold

I will start like this:

-small and big needle reset (big needle: close, then 1,5 turn)
small needle: big needle opened, carb closed to 1mm, small needle closed, with mouth and a small tube air blown in or sucked out and trying to find the opening spot of the small needle, then very small opened

-i have NO NITRO 16% castor oil fuel mix and I have 5% nitro artifical oil mix.

which steps do you recommend?

start with NO NITRO mix, experiencing with the plugs? will HOT be good? will COLD be good?

-leave GLOW on, put 2xAA battery (paralell ) constand on durnig flight too?

...

thx if somebody answers!

-the TRANSITION (from 1/4 to half trottle) was always trouble, and back to idle at landing.. horrible unstable.
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Old Apr 08, 2013, 06:29 AM
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I would start with your no nitro fuel mix, and see what happens. Change the glow plug one at a time to see what the engine does with it. I would start with the coldest plug and work my way up to the hottest plug.

Leaving the glow plug with a battery is interesting, you can try that to see what happens too. If that does work well, you could get a Sullivan on board glow ignitor unit and set the unit to come on based on throttle position too.

But the ASP carburetors tend to be problematical as to whether you get a good one or a bad one or inbetween for that matter.
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Old Apr 08, 2013, 09:03 AM
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Martin,


The larger the engine; the colder the glow-plug it needs to operate.
The lower the nitro; the hotter the glow-plug it needs to operate.

Engine displacement takes precedence, since one wouldn't run virtually any very large engine on high nitro fuel.
If these HK glow-plugs truly emulate the OS models listed, I would follow what OS write.
They recommend that any engine .61 (10 cc) and larger, be run with their #10 (A5) cold glow-plug.

Since the low-speed needle controls the 0-75% throttle range (assuming the high-speed needle is adjusted rich-of-peak at full-throttle); non-optimal transition in the ¼ - ½ throttle range, should be solely its responsibility.
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Old Apr 08, 2013, 09:43 AM
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Well the carburetor that ia on my ASP 1.80 isn't all that great either, but it is working OK. Low speed idle is a little on the rich side, but it seems to be working OK like that.
I am using 5% nitro glow fuel, a blend of synthetic and castor oil, and the engine is sporting a APC 20x6 prop. The big profile plane the engine is on doesn't need to fly fast of course.

Aeroworks 80 inch profie flight video m4v (7 min 49 sec)
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Old Apr 12, 2013, 12:33 PM
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...first I start with the exhaust, clean it and use loctite to seal it..

https://plus.google.com/u/0/11674179...ts/EJi9bTS3Kn4
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Old Apr 16, 2013, 03:52 AM
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Iran, Alborz, Meshkindasht
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Hi fellas

Does anyone know the difference of ASP S52A and S52AII?
i searched some but didnt find any.
i asked them but got no reply
thanks
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Old Apr 16, 2013, 05:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Captain_ali View Post
Hi fellas

Does anyone know the difference of ASP S52A and S52AII?
i searched some but didnt find any.
i asked them but got no reply
thanks
The difference is whether it has a remote main needle or not.
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Old Apr 16, 2013, 06:23 AM
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Aha
ok then
thanks. but in the hobby king it is not mentioned AII
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Old Apr 16, 2013, 06:52 AM
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It is likely a misprint where they didn't go into the details much. Being a discounter they aren't always very accurate in their titles or descriptions.
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Old Apr 20, 2013, 01:13 AM
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hello ppl.

a noob question, as I found the EXHAUST of this motor (asp 180 AR) very UN-SEALED, exhaust was coming out all around the joints of the exhaust.. maybe that was my problem.

the question: how do I go sure, that the CARB is well sealed? I mean I can not see anything come out at the carb part where it seats in the engine, I just tightened the screws.. or should I remove it and use a little red loctite around the neck (after cleaning) ? and there is also the small O ring on the needle.. how do I go sure it is tight there.

thx!
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