Originally Posted by Gerry__

Intended market:



That's from the manual. I saw a RP pop its ESC once during sustained low throttle flight. It's best to use bursts of full throttle.

I don't see any warning in the manual about running at partial throttle. I expect that it's ok so long as you are not restricting the airflow.

Originally Posted by aeajr

If your radio limits your choices then you have to live within those limits and prioritize your choices accordingly.

I am using a DX6i. If there is a way I could get a 3-position throttle using switches, and free up my left stick for proportional flaps, I am all ears. The point I was trying to make is that all-or-nothing throttle does not satisfy all users.

Originally Posted by JumpySticks

Sliders would be proportional. Unfortunately my DX7 does not have one or I would certainly use that for throttle.

Yes, I see how you are constrained on the DX7. Great for power planes, and of course there are no glider mixes in the software. That is the reason that the DX7 would not be a preferred choice for full house gliders, electric or pure. But don't let anyone tell you that you can't fly full house gliders with a DX7 as we all know you can.

I see the DX7s does add one variable dial but the location would make it very inconvenient to use it for throttle or variable flaps. Pretty much limited to using 3 way switch for flap control which is fine for most people. Then you work on user mixes to create camber, reflex and, if desired, aileron-flap mix.

Originally Posted by aeajr

but i don't think the cooler running esc is a major consideration in this discussion.

+1!

Originally Posted by Jovanx

+1!

They've been known to pop with sustained flight at partial throttle, especially with bigger props. Anyway, I hope you found my link useful.

Originally Posted by sliderca

Hey guys. Any girl sail pilots on this thread?

Anyways I maidened my Radian PRO and wanted to share my thoughts. I primarily fly scale warbird, intermediate 3D, and pylon.

My dad (old, bold guy) told me to go get a Radian v1. I was like, really dad? A three channel? C'mon. Long story short that got me hooked on gliders and a week later I had the Radian Pro.

Opened the box and it was warped really bad. LHS (Gyro Hobby, Lake Forest, CA) exchanged for me and they were really cool about it. Not sure if they get support from HH or not but that store seriously takes care of people as long as you are nice.

Other thing I noticed was Y-connector. Yuck. I'm a computer guy so the thought of not having individual servo control was not something I wanted to dabble with. So off to dad's house to pick up a used JR 9503 (currently on DX6i). (Dad is sorta addicted to R/C and spends a lot of time buying other peoples wrecks and making them perfect again. He even trues his own bicycle tires so you get the idea).

Got everything out on table and wow. I couldn't figure out how to program the JR. I mean, I could sit and really learn this radio but I just wanted to try out camber and stuff. So after reading about radios the DX18 seemed like the clear winner for me. DX18 arrived from Soaring USA and it took maybe 10 minutes to setup. (note: yea 10 minutes to get it working but not perfect of course, again... wanted to fly).

Went to maiden, was a handful to control and getting used to left stick flaps, right lever throttle, 5 flight modes, etc. (Sherman Knight program). Was way too much for my rookie glider thumbs. Landed and thought to myself, well this isn't fun like the Radian V1.

So I started a new program from scratch in the DX18. Your going to think this is lame but since I mostly fly power I put power back on left throttle stick (yes motor is in aux not motor on receiver), flaps on left lever, and setup 3 flight modes. I also used a servo balancer and adjusted all the mechanicals with my limited knowledge of sail planes.

Off to the field. Power up DX18, pre flight check list pops up, set my flight modes, 3…2…1… launch. I’m in the AIR, WOO HOO….

So I think. Ok let’s dial this puppy in. Each flight I pick 2 things to adjust. After I figure out how much I want (2-3 passes maybe) I land. Adjust… Launch… I did this 10 times. So that is about 20 adjustments on 1st battery.

I switch it up to 2nd battery and decide to just fly it for a bit. WOW. Was super impressed, especially when under no power. I got some very very very minor thermal and very very minor lift from an adjacent hill at the park but overall this plane was flying really nice.

My only complaint now is the stock prop (yep, ordering new prop and spinner now). Watt meter says I’m pulling 145 Watts & 12.5 Amps.

So long story short I really like this plane. But what I like even more is the DX18 and sailplane programming. It is SO MUCH FUN to program this thing. It’s hard to believe how this compares to a real sailplane and all the tricks we have available to us as R/C pilots.

Would I buy this plane again? NO. Sorry but it just isn’t cool enough to buy a 2nd one. I think my next plane will be the mystique. I figured the cost is under $1k for a fully loaded mystique, which is actually a lot cheaper than the full house sailplanes I have been looking at. Let the flame begin…

Using flight modes, you can have both throttle and flaps on the left stick. I have the servos and motor ready to go into the Mystique as soon (?) as it gets here.

The RP is fun, but it is foam and bendy foam and QC is not great, but you can replace the entire airframe for about $100. After this rebuild, I won't do it again, either.

Rick

Originally Posted by ecase

Is there a detailed setup for the DX7? I would like to try it, but I am not much of a programming whiz.

Here are the modifications to the stock DX7 setup to add a proportional flap/proportional throttle switch mapped to the throttle stick:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1569690
Don't ask me how it works, the spektrum programming is cryptic to say the least. Most of this came from an old post by moparherb. All I know is that it works!

Originally Posted by moparherb

Here is the mix settings so that you can use throttle hold switch to disable your electric motor on electric airplanes. I know this works on DX7, DX8 and JR 9303 and JR 9503. I can see no reason it would not work on DX6I but you will have to try it using a different mix:

I use mix 3
make it a THRO to THRO mix
POS 0 Should be 0% in both Positions
POS 1 make both settings -100% that is minus 100%
you do that by changing the position of throttle stick
Set Offset to -200 that is minus 200
make sure that "mix" is set to position 1
Leave THRO STK Inhibited (INH)

Now when you put the throttle hold switch in position 1 (toward you) the motor will be disabled. Hope this helps and if you have any questions please ask.

This is the original moparherb post for throttle switch. For the DX7, mine would not go to -200 offset, so I just went to the max negative offset of -125 and it worked. Then I mixed the flaps to the throttle stick when the switch is in Position 0.

Oh, and as always, best to remove prop or disable motor prior to messing with throttle mixes.

I don't fly with Spektrum because I had a large enough investment in Futaba TX and RX's and bought the RP PNP. Same with the Radian.

However, for the Geeks, for inexpensive full house, fully programable, with a GLIDER mode, TX consider the $50 Turnigy 9X and it's many flavors. Lots of support on RCG. Mine is now a $100 TX with upgrades to back lit display, Smartie Parts USB programming board, 2S LiPo rechargeable in the TX , firmware flash to ER9x. The RX has a single antenna and I get over 0.8km with the RX and TX antennas in opposing polarity ( one horizonal and one vertical ) and that's far enough for me to loose site of a Radian or Radian Pro. Haven't tried it further than that.

Every stick, pot and switch is programable and mixable. Its not for the impatient to get it programmed just the way you want but there are a ton of templates to start with and more appearing every day.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1266162

T9x + Er9x - Step by Step - Lesson 05 - 4servos wing - advanced flight modes (1 hr 1 min 46 sec)

Originally Posted by rcoconut

Cool flight Easter!! Seemed like you could've stayed up there forever with that offshore breeze!! I'll have to look up the velcro mod, I think I remember it?? Did you use a 1300mAh batt for that flight?

thanks coco! yea the velcro is the way to go, required and bit of cutting/shimming the velcro under the base of the center wing mount.

I was using a 2200mah If i had a1300mah and no GP, i could see staying up there a Loooong time..winds were very lite as well!! Under 10km

Originally Posted by Eastcoast78

It took awhile to over come the fear of flying over the ocean. But once in the air for a few mins, i didnt even think about it..well maybe once...

Thank you for that beautiful video. I still remember that one you took of not flying that showed the big blue waves and the icebergs. Now that you are sort of over your fear of flying over water, that spot might be on your list.

I have flown over a lake, and landed it in the water on purpose, just to see if it could be done. I figured it a guy could land on water, a whole new vista of flying sites would open up. When I plucked it out of the lake, it made funny noises and the motor would not work. In the end it turned out that the ESC was wet, and after a few hours of drying out, it's as good as new.

Before winter comes, my plan is to waterproof everything and try landing in the water again. It's not a float plane, but it floats.

Originally Posted by Jovanx

Thank you for that beautiful video. I still remember that one you took of not flying that showed the big blue waves and the icebergs. Now that you are sort of over your fear of flying over water, that spot might be on your list.

I have flown over a lake, and landed it in the water on purpose, just to see if it could be done. I figured it a guy could land on water, a whole new vista of flying sites would open up. When I plucked it out of the lake, it made funny noises and the motor would not work. In the end it turned out that the ESC was wet, and after a few hours of drying out, it's as good as new.

Before winter comes, my plan is to waterproof everything and try landing in the water again. It's not a float plane, but it floats.

Haven't tried this, but once considered strapping a couple of empty plastic water bottles under the wings. Maybe add a spacer so that they extend down enough to keep the radio gear out of the water and clear the flaps. It would be draggy for sure, but I'll bet it would fly fine. if you balanced it right so it floats on the tail a bit you might even be able to fly it back off the water.

Hi everyone
I just bought a Radian Pro, and after reading some posts I see that they were sold with a defective prop in the early days.. my radian came with what appears as an open box, no manual, lots of dust on the parts, so I suspect it is rather old, and am concerned I have got the original bad prop. I have tried searching through the 700+ pages but i cant get a focused answer. Would anyone remember how I can tell if I have the bad or the good prop (before I fly it!)? or at least please tell me what the markings are on a "good " new prop?.. Thanks!

Originally Posted by Radio.Active

However, for the Geeks, for inexpensive full house, fully programable, with a GLIDER mode, TX consider the $50 Turnigy 9X and it's many flavors.

I have a turnigy 9x, flashed to open 9x and transmitting through a DSM2 module that came out of my blade SR transmitter. The 9x variants are definitely the most versatile option for anything you could want to do for sailplane mixes, or any mix for that matter... You can mix anything with anything else, control it from any input, time delay and blend mixes to each other, and anything else you could ever imagine.

My setup uses the 3 way switch for main control of flight modes. Each flight mode uses the throttle stick in a different way. Fly mode uses the throttle for the motor, the glide mode uses the throttle stick as reflex/camber control, and then in landing mode the throttle is flaps/crow. In all modes, I can use the trainer switch as a motor toggle, so I can instantly bail out if I find myself in a pickle.

Originally Posted by marinaio

Hi everyone
I just bought a Radian Pro, and after reading some posts I see that they were sold with a defective prop in the early days.. my radian came with what appears as an open box, no manual, lots of dust on the parts, so I suspect it is rather old, and am concerned I have got the original bad prop. I have tried searching through the 700+ pages but i cant get a focused answer. Would anyone remember how I can tell if I have the bad or the good prop (before I fly it!)? or at least please tell me what the markings are on a "good " new prop?.. Thanks!

Congrats with your purchase!! You'll have a good time with her.

Regarding the prop I believe when you look at the numbers on the blades, it should read this: 9.75 x 7.5 _1 If your prop is missing the "_1" than I believe you have the old prop. When I 1st got mine there was an Airworthiness Directive out where HH would replace the prop for free. I'm not able to locate it on the HH web site.

Hope I have it right for you....... Good luck with your maiden!!