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Old Mar 26, 2012, 02:18 PM
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Southern Calif
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Kevin,

The screws I used during construction which is posted on page 2 were just temporary. I ended up using #2 brass flat head wood screws. I drilled a small hole by hand using a pin vice then threaded the brass screw in. You need to use some cutting fluid and screw the brass screw in a turn then back it out and repeat. It should self thread into the lead. The lead is very gummy so use some cutting fluid made for aluminum when drilling or threading, kerosene will also work.

Ed

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Old Mar 26, 2012, 02:27 PM
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Southern Calif
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Allen,

I also had a lot of grief cutting out my stand, it is basically trial and error. I used some pieces of cardboard and dividers to get the shape.

Ed
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Old Mar 27, 2012, 12:56 AM
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Pomona, CA
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Got the rudder post tube installed and the rudder mounted. Made a small bulkhead out of thin ply and CA'd it in place, then mixed up some West with 403 additive to glue and seal the tube in place, also glued in the tube brace.

Drilled, recessed and mounted the lower rudder bracket into the ballast (thanks Ed), used #2 brass flat head wood screws. Made a small brass spacer bushing for the bottom on the rudder pivot. May need a bit of filing as it's a bit of a tight fit when the bracket screws are tight.

Also got the sheer strips sanded down flush. Still going back and forth on whether to mount the rudder servo aft with a seperate hatch or forward....did get my servos ordered today....

Sorry for the pic quality....not enough light I guess, but the flash washed out any detail with glare. I'll try and get better shots for those interested.

Kevin
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Old Mar 27, 2012, 09:45 AM
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Southern Calif
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Hi Kevin,

The rudder installation looks nice and clean. What servos did you buy, are the analog or digital?

Ed
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Old Mar 27, 2012, 11:19 AM
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Pomona, CA
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Ed,

I'm going with a Hitec HS5085 for the rudder and HS 7950 for the sails, both digital. These are the same servos I have in my ODOM, and have worked well in that application. Another coat of fairing compound on the keel this AM before I go to work.

BTW... I weighed the boat with rudder install and sheer strips....11lbs 2.5oz. Pretty much exactly the same as #529 at the same state of build.

Kevin
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Old Mar 27, 2012, 08:39 PM
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Southern Calif
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Kevin,

Well at this point of the build your boat weights a 1/2 oz less than mine. Your just getting started and you all ready have an advantage. Guess I will have to get the grinder out.

Ed
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Old Mar 27, 2012, 10:26 PM
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Ed,

Something tells me the slickness of your paint work will more than make up for a 1/2oz.

Kevin
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Old Mar 28, 2012, 03:06 PM
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Jersey,C.I. (GB)
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To get the shape for a hull stand is easy - just get some soldering wire, thicker is better, shape it around the hull and transfer the shape to the wood

A very light paint spray , that can be easily sanded off , works well for me , or you could trace around it.

Edward.
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Old Mar 30, 2012, 06:33 PM
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Pomona, CA
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So I've been trying to mock up the king plank and deck beams. I think I have myself convinced to make the main hatch shorter, and frame in a small hatch over the rudder post, and with that, mount the rudder servo aft right next to the post. It will mean altering the supplied deck/hatch beams a bit, as well as making up one additional deck beam for the front of the "aft hatch".

Do any of you Canterbury sailors out there have an opinion over a good "baseline" mast step position. Hans calls for around 20-13/16" from the bow, but he shows a huge 2" range of adjustment with the step. I can't seee why I'd need that much range of adjustment if the baseline is close. My plan is to keep the deck as simple as possible, which means I'd like to eliminate the need for fore/aft adjustable chainplates, and a minimum of step adjustment (my ODOM mast step has a 1" range of adjustment, and honestly I use the "middle" position 95% of the time). Any comments???

Kevin
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Old Mar 30, 2012, 08:59 PM
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Kevin,

The farthest mast step from the bow allowed is 21.259" or 540mm, if you start with that one and go 1" forward you can still have 5 mast steps. I usually sail with my mast at 21 1/16" or 535mm which is the second from the farthest. Hans sails his boat at 530mm or 535mm. So a short mast step sound like a good idea and saves some weight.

Ed
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Old Mar 31, 2012, 12:15 AM
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Thanks for the info Ed. I'm probably getting a bit ahead of myself, but wanted to try and put the mast compression post as close as possible to the "median" mast step setting. I assume your post sits on the trim weight? Did you just glue it to the top of the weight? I was thinking of a small locating pin in the bottom of the post, keyed into a hole in the trim weight.

Kevin
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Old Mar 31, 2012, 08:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by poltergeist View Post
Thanks for the info Ed. I'm probably getting a bit ahead of myself, but wanted to try and put the mast compression post as close as possible to the "median" mast step setting. I assume your post sits on the trim weight? Did you just glue it to the top of the weight? I was thinking of a small locating pin in the bottom of the post, keyed into a hole in the trim weight.

Kevin
Kevin,

I installed my compression post on the forward tip of the trim weight. I measured the distance from the forward deck opening to the rear of the post, it is 2 9/16 inches. That puts it at 535mm to 540mm from the bow. I believe I hollowed out a spot on the trim weight and rounded the bottom of the compression mast and used epoxy to secure it on both ends.

Ed
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Old Mar 31, 2012, 09:51 AM
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Thanks Ed,

Sorry for the stupid questions. Just figured I'd post them here in case they might be helpful to other dummies like me

I appreciate the insight. Servos came in from Servo City yesterday (quick as always) hope to get them mounted tomorrow and make some progress on the deck beams.

Kevin
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Old Mar 31, 2012, 11:07 AM
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What kind of sail arm did you decide on?

Ed
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Old Mar 31, 2012, 04:10 PM
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Ed,

I'm leaning on going with something similar to this setup in "Bobinsc's" Canterbury. But I may change my mind after trying to lay it out in the boat.

Kevin
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