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Old Mar 04, 2005, 04:38 PM
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Mark Wood's Avatar
United States, CA, Bear Valley Springs
Joined Feb 2000
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Yippee!
NCFM Halfpipe build thread

Ok. I guess by virtue that I was the first one to brag about receiving my Halfpipe kit in the Halfpipe Available thread I'll do the build thread to make up for the bragging.
Now, bear with me guys as I've never done a build thread and the fact that I'm a notoriously SLOW builder but I figger this will keep me moving as I'm sure you all will push me if I start slacking off.
I called Derek a few minutes ago and warned him that I'd be calling him on a regular basis with questions and he's ready with answers. He also bribed me to keep my mouth shut if'n I find any glaring mistakes so this should be a good deal for everyone.

So with no further ado, here we go with a brand new toy from Derek and Harris at North County Flying Machines!

mw
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Last edited by Mark Wood; Mar 04, 2005 at 04:58 PM.
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Old Mar 04, 2005, 04:47 PM
Tryin not to be a hack!!
Aerobat152A's Avatar
SoCal
Joined May 2004
1,797 Posts
Cool Mr Wood!!! I started laughing at your comment about QVC..... I was thinking of playing a joke on the 3 woman that live in the house by locking the QVC Channel out with the Parental Control feature..... hehe

Kevin
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Old Mar 04, 2005, 04:57 PM
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Mark Wood's Avatar
United States, CA, Bear Valley Springs
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I'll be building this plane absolutely stock per the instructions with no tricks, no mods and no wise ideas. This will allow anyone to build this craft exactly as the designers intended and also show if there will be any trouble spots that are difficult to understand.
Believe me, if there is anything that's not quite crystal clear I'll find it.

The first two shots are repeated from the Halfpipe Available thread. They show the box size that you'll receive and then the goodies as seen when you open the box.
The third pic shows the parts spread out on the table... wing cores, wood and CF bundle, a bag of the shot that will be mixed into a matrix (I love that movie) and poured into the void near the front of the nose that looks like it would be a ballast tube from a Moth and the various small pieces like the control horns rods and clevises.
The fourth shows the spot in the instructions where NFCM says that they cut a slice to remove the ballast cores. I had a heckuva time finding it since I was looking for a much larger cut. Putting a bit of tape across this cut when pouring in the shot/epoxy matrix is recommended but if you're using a reasonably thick 30 minute epoxy I don't see how any will leak out from this point. I'll tape it anyways just to be safe. I know me.
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Old Mar 04, 2005, 05:06 PM
It could happen...
InTheLift's Avatar
Torrance, California
Joined Jan 2004
7,537 Posts
Hey alright Mr. Mod! Build thread! Hoping to see the same package on my door step when I get home.
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Old Mar 04, 2005, 05:19 PM
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Oceanside CA
Joined Dec 2004
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YAY now if I don't get it custom built like I plan to I won't mess up on my own build!
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Old Mar 04, 2005, 05:40 PM
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Austin, Tx
Joined Nov 2003
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Excellent Mark

I will be following this thread closely

Steven
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Old Mar 04, 2005, 05:52 PM
Feeling FrSky
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United States, CA, Santa Barbara
Joined Feb 2003
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Here's the build thread:

1) Glue wings together

2) Glue spars into wing

3) Glue subtrailing edge on

4) Install gear

5) Cover

6) Cover & hinge elevons

7) Build & cover fin, install

8) Balance

9) Huck

10) Smile



DO EEEEET!

Steve
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Old Mar 04, 2005, 06:31 PM
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Mark Wood's Avatar
United States, CA, Bear Valley Springs
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Step 1: Pouring the leadshot/epoxy balance weight

Leave it to Steve to register the Reader's Digest version.

Well, there's always more than one way to skin a cat they say and I managed to try at least two of them, one for each void.
After splitting the shot into two equal ziplocks weighing 89.4g each I found that the amount of shot will almost fill the void without epoxy. The pics show the amount of epoxy that I used and actually wasted most of it. The shot will sink to the bottom of the void through the epoxy being considerably heavier pushing the epoxy to the top. Using that much epoxy I had to keep squeegeeing the epoxy off the top as I poured the mixture in. Most likely just enough epoxy to completely coat the shot will be plenty and you can always pour a top plug if there isn't enough to completely fill the void.
You really do want to use 30 minute epoxy as this step takes a little time and you don't want the epoxy going off before you're done pouring. That would suck.
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Last edited by Mark Wood; Mar 04, 2005 at 06:55 PM.
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Old Mar 04, 2005, 06:55 PM
It could happen...
InTheLift's Avatar
Torrance, California
Joined Jan 2004
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Oh yeah!

Sorry Mark...back to your build!
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Old Mar 04, 2005, 07:11 PM
Striving to Rip the Bring
raptor22's Avatar
San Diego, socal, USA, North America, Earth, Solar System, the Orion arm, Milky way, Universe
Joined Apr 2003
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Wow, mark. That was fast. How much time do you spend on rcgroups?

I like the epoxy-thingy for ballast. I did something similar to add ballast on my raider.
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Old Mar 04, 2005, 08:14 PM
Mr. Innocent's Avatar
Oceanside CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InTheLift
Oh yeah!

Sorry Mark...back to your build!
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Old Mar 04, 2005, 10:07 PM
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Joined Jan 2004
10,642 Posts
wouldnt it be easier to just put a chunk of lead in the front?

just curious because i no longer build with epoxy in or anywhere near the nose, after a few crashes it turns into a consistancy of rock salt....

JOe
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Old Mar 04, 2005, 10:55 PM
It could happen...
InTheLift's Avatar
Torrance, California
Joined Jan 2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KingOfTheHill
wouldnt it be easier to just put a chunk of lead in the front?

just curious because i no longer build with epoxy in or anywhere near the nose, after a few crashes it turns into a consistancy of rock salt....

JOe
I'm sure you could Joe...or use Goop instead of epoxy...maybe thin the Goop a bit.
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Old Mar 04, 2005, 11:01 PM
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Mark Wood's Avatar
United States, CA, Bear Valley Springs
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Ok. Here's a couple issues that cropped up.

The first deals with the small weight core release cuts located at 4" from the root. Be sure to firmly tape the small cuts that are made to extract the weight cores top AND bottom. Also, the builder may want to take the wing cores out of the beds before pouring the weight epoxy. If the tape leaks epoxy through either the top or bottom weight core release cut you'll be able to see it and wipe it off before it sets. Pic 1 shows what happens otherwise. The chunk out of the wing bed became a part of the wing. Thank goodness for a rough sanding barrel on the Dremel.

The second issue is simply because of the thinness of the wing core. The builder might also use a piece of 2" tape the length of the weight void top and bottom before pouring the epoxy as the cores are VERY thin at those points and very possibly will leak especially if you use a popsicle stick or similar to pack the shot and epoxy into the void. Pic 2 shows the slightly exposed lead that popped out of the wall of the void. A little bit of light sanding fixed that problem too.

Told ya that if there was any way to screw up the build of this kit, I'll find it!
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Old Mar 04, 2005, 11:02 PM
Striving to Rip the Bring
raptor22's Avatar
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its been hours since the last pics mark. I mean, cmon, you started so well.
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