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Old Feb 10, 2013, 03:55 PM
AEM
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Bay Area, CA
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I just tried the lowest advance possible as well as the highest PWM settings possible. The problem seems worse than before. My settings are shown below.
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Old Feb 10, 2013, 03:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjmouris View Post
Note, you are very close to burning this speed controller as you can clearly see it is not running well. So i would advise against repeated testing if you notice something is still not working well.

Joe
My CC125 burned on the fourth flight with almost the same setup, although I did not notice any such problems. The replacement CC180 worked flawlessly ever since...
I would get rid of the soft cutoff...
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Old Feb 10, 2013, 04:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Mark Haigh View Post
Steve,
What timing would you recommend for your 'Y' wind motors.

Cheers,
Mark
Low timing gives the best efficiency---but the "Y" motors can take some advance(up to 15 degrees) which will give a little more power.

Steve
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Old Feb 10, 2013, 05:00 PM
AEM
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Bay Area, CA
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Originally Posted by WimH View Post
My CC125 burned on the fourth flight with almost the same setup, although I did not notice any such problems. The replacement CC180 worked flawlessly ever since...
I would get rid of the soft cutoff...
When you say get rid of the soft cutoff, what do you suggest I replace it with (the default hard cut-off, I assume)?

Also, what exactly was the setup that you flew before where the cc125 burned up?
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Old Feb 11, 2013, 12:54 AM
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Originally Posted by jjmouris View Post
I would save the P125's for use with the big mod and 4S to 6S. Works well with a Neu 1512/1.5D or similar.
Note: This seems to be an older CC125. If the power FETs are the "leggy" ones which have a 12V gate voltage maximum then they are not suitable for the "big mod". See www.f5b.co and the big mod description for details.
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Old Feb 11, 2013, 11:47 AM
AEM
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Assuming that the problem is not ESC settings, the only two remaining sources for the problem would be the motor and the battery (everything else has pretty much been ruled out).

What are the likelihoods that the brand new motor (from manufacturer) or the brand new Thunder Power battery could cause this problem? Unfortunately, I don't have any other 2s lipos to drive the motor, and I don't have any other motors that run on 2s for further testing.
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Old Feb 11, 2013, 04:04 PM
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I don't see anything wrong with the voltage, so the pack is fine.

You assume that running a motor is just a case of the right settings on the ESC. That is not entirely true. It could very well be that the CC firmware is not compatible with running this drive. Neu has made changes in the stator design and so even if this setup was fine in the past, that may not be the case now.

Please try the budget controller and see how that runs.
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Old Feb 11, 2013, 04:08 PM
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Originally Posted by jjmouris View Post
I don't see anything wrong with the voltage, so the pack is fine.

You assume that running a motor is just a case of the right settings on the ESC. That is not entirely true. It could very well be that the CC firmware is not compatible with running this drive. Neu has made changes in the stator design and so even if this setup was fine in the past, that may not be the case now.

Please try the budget controller and see how that runs.

The stator design was done years ago and I doubt it has any influence here.

First try changing the PWM to the highest available setting.

Steve
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Old Feb 11, 2013, 08:20 PM
AEM
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Originally Posted by sneu View Post
The stator design was done years ago and I doubt it has any influence here.

First try changing the PWM to the highest available setting.

Steve
Steve, I did try the highest possible, to no avail. Please take a look at Post #16. Lastly, is it possible to rotate the 6.7 gearbox on my motor so that I can match the motor mount hole pattern with that of the gearbox without having the motor wires at an awkward angle?
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Old Feb 11, 2013, 09:58 PM
AEM
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It appears that I have resolved the issue. I have changed the PWM rate to the 2nd highest available (16 kHz), increased the motor start power to 85, and increased the throttle response to 7. I have now ran through the battery pack twice for a total of about 35 bursts, and have not had a single starting or braking problem.

Thanks to everyone for the help; hopefully I won't be back on here regarding the same problem.

AEM
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Old Feb 12, 2013, 05:54 AM
Needs to do 52 legs !!
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Hi, if you would be willing to post the Excel file (zip it) from either your last batch of testing or your next flight, then I can have a look more closely just to see the startup behaviour. Using Roy's program to overlap the runs. Guess that your start power is good for the working voltage but would like to see what the little spike does on average.

Note, unless I am mistaking George's firmware uses 16Khz also when the motor is at speed.
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Old Feb 12, 2013, 11:26 AM
AEM
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Originally Posted by jjmouris View Post
Hi, if you would be willing to post the Excel file (zip it) from either your last batch of testing or your next flight, then I can have a look more closely just to see the startup behaviour. Using Roy's program to overlap the runs. Guess that your start power is good for the working voltage but would like to see what the little spike does on average.

Note, unless I am mistaking George's firmware uses 16Khz also when the motor is at speed.
It looks like Steve Burns also uses 16 Khz with his cc180/cc125 setups. I will gladly send you the zipped Excel file. I haven't recorded any runs with the Unilog since I "fixed" the problem, but I will today or tomorrow. I have never exported the Unilog data to Excel before, either.

Is there anything in particular I should now about exporting the data to Excel from Logview?

AEM
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Old Feb 12, 2013, 11:31 AM
Needs to do 52 legs !!
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Euhm I don't use Logview, not sure. Send me the Logview file?
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Old Feb 13, 2013, 05:16 AM
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Originally Posted by jjmouris View Post
Note, unless I am mistaking George's firmware uses 16Khz also when the motor is at speed.
It runs at 13kHz, but notably also at start up. So it starts with lots of small pulses to get low power. Castle 1.56 drops the PWM to 1.5 kHz to get low start power with bigger current pulses which are more dangerous when things go wrong. The stock low cost controller starts at 8kHz with the shortest pulse they can manage which is why it is too brutal on 6S.
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Old Feb 13, 2013, 07:57 AM
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Originally Posted by AEMontoya View Post
Lastly, is it possible to rotate the 6.7 gearbox on my motor so that I can match the motor mount hole pattern with that of the gearbox without having the motor wires at an awkward angle?
It can be clocked only every 90 degrees which won't help.

Steve
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