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Old Feb 25, 2015, 04:35 PM
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Gee Bee R1+2 at 1:12 scale (25" span)

Stick 'n tissue build.. I found these plans (CO2 Freeflight) and this seemed an interesting build.
Far Rarer than the imo too oft modeled / ubquitous R 1/2 models.
Likely a better performer as well.. ..maybe.. eventually
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Old Feb 25, 2015, 04:58 PM
Wing loading's just a number
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United States, MI, Canton
Joined Sep 2002
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I'll ride along...I have a Charlie Pipes Y and a Manzano Z.

Gotta love a Gee Bee no matter what size it is!
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Old Feb 25, 2015, 05:13 PM
Or current resident
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I'm along for the ride too.
That has good proportions and looks to be designed light enough to be a good flyer.
What power/equipment you plan on using?
Glenn
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Old Feb 25, 2015, 05:13 PM
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Subscribed.
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Old Feb 25, 2015, 09:23 PM
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Avionics: Hex 2011 2000kv , 7x6 prop , 610 mah 2s or a 750 3S (If necessary)
4/5 gm servos , a frsky rx, a wee Hk 9 a esc.
Fairly light 'in inventory' pieces, without going nuts on weight savings.
As I zero in on the bits and materials I'm thinking /hoping that a sub 10 oz model may result. .. only one way to find out.
Still waffling on coverings, I have Silkspan, Litespan, Doculam and various Films 'on hand'
Not today's concern though.
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Old Feb 25, 2015, 09:31 PM
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Just like Cubs... no GeeBee can be modeled too often! I'm in!
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Old Feb 26, 2015, 11:43 AM
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Glued on the formers. Small (?) problem surfaced. the darned dwg is inaccurate as drawn, the formers are missmatched, as in the stringers roller coaster all over the place.. Grrr!
Embarrassing how a few bits of wood glued together can generate so much wonder and frustration
Sorry... gonna take some time whilst I sort this one.. Likely have to do some lofting or redrawing.
Still it's beginning to take shape,
I was previously chuffed, having fitted the 2 degrees Scale offset of the rudder.
Best laid plans of meeces and men..
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Old Feb 26, 2015, 02:07 PM
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I have encountered that before. I've been able to make "adjustments" if done carefully enough, with a dremel tool. I have a grinding stone that is exactly 1/8" thick.
I'm not sure if that's a hand-drawn plan, but if so, inaccuracies like that were a lot more common than they are today with the uber-accurate Autocad plans.
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Old Feb 26, 2015, 04:58 PM
Just Having Fun...Jon Rider
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Awesome - Subscribed!!!!
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Old Feb 26, 2015, 06:54 PM
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Yeah... I never trust stringer locations on plans... even CAD ones. I cut the fuse formers and don't notch. Next, lay a music wire down the rings to find stringer notches.
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Old Feb 26, 2015, 07:12 PM
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Anxiety attack subsided .. 5 hours of fiddling later though.
Gee Bee shape is definitely emerging.
Reinforced respect and awe for builders of Scale FFlight stick 'n tissue models.

Not quite right where the tailfin stub meets the turtle deck.. on the real one it was Not faired in at all.
Stuff like that drives me nuts. But then I should have paid more attention to the design rather than making bits of wood fit adequately.
So I will have to fix it... Tomorrow
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Old Feb 26, 2015, 08:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bare View Post
Glued on the formers. Small (?) problem surfaced. the darned dwg is inaccurate as drawn, the formers are missmatched, as in the stringers roller coaster all over the place.. Grrr!
Seems to be more of the norm to some degree or other, with the old plans. One advantage to top-bottom shell construction is that you won't have to repeat the same tweaks for the other fuse side. Tweaks required for the bottom half will be new and exciting.
Flying these at this size (mine 24") is also exciting.
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Old Feb 26, 2015, 09:17 PM
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Yup, looking forward to doing the underside
Will be fun.. sans benefit of a bolted down crutch.. freehand Yipeee!.
Does one require prehensile feet for this?
What a Goofy way to build a model, not putting too fine a point on it.
A rectangular frame with curved former pieces attached , as per the Real version would of been wayy too easy and bungle proof.
Clearly the price of Sloth, ie; using someone elses' plan.
Shame on me
I'm sure it will be lovely.. when finished, eventually.

Nice R1 model.. good motivation.
Does yours have working rudder.. Is it necessary?
Seeming as a Bit of a pita to build decently, given it's extraordinary width.. I'm needing reassurance that it's worth the effort.
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Old Feb 27, 2015, 10:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ARUP View Post
Yeah... I never trust stringer locations on plans... even CAD ones. I cut the fuse formers and don't notch. Next, lay a music wire down the rings to find stringer notches.
I use the same method actually. I then cut my notches that I've marked with my dremel. CAREFULLY, because dremels can sometimes cause other damage because of their hyperactive rotational speed.
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Old Feb 27, 2015, 10:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bare View Post
Yup, looking forward to doing the underside
Will be fun.. sans benefit of a bolted down crutch.. freehand Yipeee!.
Does one require prehensile feet for this?
What a Goofy way to build a model, not putting too fine a point on it.
A rectangular frame with curved former pieces attached , as per the Real version would of been wayy too easy and bungle proof.
Clearly the price of Sloth, ie; using someone elses' plan.
Shame on me
I'm sure it will be lovely.. when finished, eventually.

Nice R1 model.. good motivation.
Does yours have working rudder.. Is it necessary?
Seeming as a Bit of a pita to build decently, given it's extraordinary width.. I'm needing reassurance that it's worth the effort.
That's how Laddie Mikulaski designed the CW-24B in the latest Model Aviation magazine. Rectangular form, with curved pieces added. That would make it nearly twist-proof. Very good designing work!

Yes, it does appear that your plans are hand-drawn. That could be the culprit for the misalignments that you're seeing. Autocad plans are usually a lot more accurate than you can possibly get hand-drawing them.
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