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Old Jun 15, 2015, 09:18 PM
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Weight of Mono kote etc.

Dedided to refurb My Ancient Bird of Daylight Savings Time ..circa 86/87 .
Been in the garage rafters for Decades. Suffered 'some' damages there. Time to fix it or Bin it.. I chose to Fix.
Rebuilt the tail feathers then things progressed and I decided to strip the Fuse as well .. for access to the wooden bits.
Dunno what the covering was... I have trouble remembering Breakfast.
First guess either Mono coat or Ultracoat.
What I do know is that the film peeled off nicely.., the Colour /adhesive layer did not... and it was surprisingly thick... wayy thicker than the film.
Finally.. 4 hours later !... Grrrrr ..it's 98 % clean balsa.
The fuselage weighed 3.9 oz covered and now 2.9 oz uncovered.
A helluvalot of film weight IMO.
Note that this is a 26" long box fuse of 1.25" x 2" size.
It's the fuse for a 1.5 m Hand launched Glider fer Gawd's sake.
Be really careful in what you cover your models with... I wasn't ..~30 years ago.
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Old Jun 15, 2015, 10:28 PM
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Current covering....

"Back in the day" covering was different than what we have today.....Moneykote was thicker than today...now the color is IN the adhesive.....which makes removal more difficult. I have a Paragon covered in the 1980's and there is no way to match it now. Nor will I try!
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Old Jun 16, 2015, 08:42 AM
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Here's a table of covering weights. Can't verify it's accuracy. I'm sure a google search would uncover others if you wanted to cross reference.

30 years ago I would have used Monokote. I wouldn't have even considered using anything else. I find it too much of a fight to get the results I'm accustomed to and have been using Ultracote for the past 4 or 5 years. I had quite a bit of Monokote that I use for trim graphics.
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Old Jun 16, 2015, 05:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tailskid2 View Post
"Back in the day" covering was different than what we have today.....Moneykote was thicker than today...now the color is IN the adhesive.....which makes removal more difficult. I have a Paragon covered in the 1980's and there is no way to match it now. Nor will I try!
The glue was the colour back then too. The film isn't the same as it used to be but it's still the same method used to make the stuff.

And yes, both Monokote and Ultracote are HEAVY! ! ! !

I added almost 2.5 oz to a 3 foot span 1/2A model when I checked the weights before and after.

The new parkflyer films that require iron on glue to be added to the frameworks are far lighter.
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Old Jun 19, 2015, 01:50 PM
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Ultra is somewhat lighter than mono and MUCH easier to apply. The "so-lite" types are very light... .33 oz per sq yard or something like that but don't let the unprotected backs touch or you're throwing it away !!
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Old Jun 19, 2015, 04:40 PM
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if you don't go crazy with paint then sig koverall and dope can end up somewhere between solarfilm and monokote in weight. just have to accept that cloth is beautiful and not try to get a mirror finish. haven't tried it yet but i'm thinking that dark or even black tinted dope over an open framework before the cloth goes on could be interesting.

would be nice if there was a similar cloth that was half the weight and the same price.
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Old Jun 19, 2015, 06:04 PM
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I Painted my HLG's fuse.
Easy and looks decent actually.
White paint with semi gloss wpu overcoat.
Added 0.35 oz (10 gms ) Not ideal but lighter than the previous film.
Found some scraps of Film .. (looks to be the old stripped off stuff) features a waxy paper 'backing/interleave' ??
Whatever it is/was..I found it a pain to apply .. I quickly gave up on it.
Wing is still covered in it.. Likely 2 oz of the crud on there.
But It's in good shape and I'm lazy.
Used My 1.2 mil Doculam instead to recover the tail bits, dead easy to apply and V light.
Also sprayed these bits White with a wpu overcoat.
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Old Jun 27, 2015, 01:53 PM
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Originally Posted by ZAGNUT View Post
if you don't go crazy with paint then sig koverall and dope can end up somewhere between solarfilm and monokote in weight. just have to accept that cloth is beautiful and not try to get a mirror finish. haven't tried it yet but i'm thinking that dark or even black tinted dope over an open framework before the cloth goes on could be interesting.

would be nice if there was a similar cloth that was half the weight and the same price.
Can you iron on over koverall?
For examp;le go with all white then use ultracote to iron stripes, etc?
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Old Jun 30, 2015, 01:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thermalin View Post
Can you iron on over koverall?
For examp;le go with all white then use ultracote to iron stripes, etc?
never tried it but i'm sure a method could be worked out. using a solvent, maybe even dope or dope thinner itself, would probably work as well. bleeding of the film's color may or may not be an issue.....thanks, now i have yet another thing on my never ending experiments-to-try list...

oh, just remembered, solartex irons on over itself just fine so i can't see there being an issue with koverall.
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Old Jul 01, 2015, 06:55 PM
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Koverall is also heavy. Maybe not as heavy as Solarfilm, but, pretty close by the time it is finished.

My 2 cents.

Just depends on what you need. For small gliders/electric then Solite/Coverite Microlite. Parklite or Solarfilm if you can stand a little extra weight.

If you need to paint it then Litespan/Coverite Coverlite, or doculam. But....I have found if you aren't really careful with the paint you end up with a heavier covering than Solarfilm or Parklite.

I do like doculam when I want to paint the plane. For medium size planes I like Solarfilm.

charlie
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Old Jul 02, 2015, 02:34 PM
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Koverall is also heavy. Maybe not as heavy as Solarfilm, but, pretty close by the time it is finished.

charlie
you mean solartex? only if you go totally nuts with the filling and finishing. using just enough dope to seal it you can keep koverall at or even below solarfilm weight which is probably the lightest of the "standard" film coverings. do a moderate finish job and it'll be a bit heavier but still less than monokote. an added advantage is that it will often remain intact and contain all the broken bits of wood in a crash...its like having a built in trash bag

oh, and the seams in solartex are also hideous.
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Old Jul 02, 2015, 05:26 PM
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Nope, Koverall. It is a relatively heavy fabric. Yes, without the finish it is close to Solarfilm in weight (at least on my scales). By the time it is sealed and painted it is more than Solarfilm.

I agree about the seams in Solartex. But, for a large scale model that was covered with linen it works well.

I took a different look at covering material when I looked at some full size fabric covered planes up close. Some are finished so well the covering looks like aluminum sheet. For those a film covering would be more scale than seeing the weave on something like silk, koverall or solartex. So, look carefully at the full size before you decide you want to see the weave on your model.

charlie
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Old Jul 03, 2015, 09:42 PM
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Geez.. Solartex Really?
Solartex is Horrid Stuff in My experiences, not to belabor the point
Put In Your model :-), I refuse to apply it to any more of mine.
I ruined my carefully built Saggita 600 with that garbage covering.
Won't be doing similar again ...in MY lifetime.
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